Engagement shank profile

Background: I work in a university makerspace teaching people basic jewelry/metalworking skills. I have about a year of experience. As a skill reference- I recently designed, cast, and set a ring with 18 2x2mm square stones each set with four 0.6mm prongs.

I may be asked to create a family member’s engagement ring soon. Besides the sentimental value/uniqueness of having a family member make the ring, a big reason for it is cost savings. So my question is this: how small of a profile can/should an engagement ring have? I’m hoping for advice on dimensions and profile shape, such as to lower the cost of gold used.

And if anyone has any tips on the casting/working/setting characteristics of gold as compared to sterling I would appreciate it!

Best,

Porter

One year of experience is not enough. Especially for something that the bride would wear every day. A wedding ring is a really big deal. My advice would be for you to do the design and then have a professional jeweler make it. It truly takes at least 5 years of bench experience to just learn the basics.

Thank you for your input;

Even so, the question still stands. How thin/delicate can a band reasonably be designed? Are there any profile shapes that are more preferable?

Hello,

will this ring be a shank with head(s) for 1 stone (like a solitaire) or more stones (like a 3 or 5 stone ring) larger stones?)

fabricated or die struck heads are stronger than cast)

or will it be a band? with smaller stones set into it? or without stones?

stone size is a consideration for metal thickness

desired shank design is a consideration

may i also suggest finding a vintage setting

(cost may be lower, material cost relative to workmanship)

(my engagement ring is vintage, platinum, very dainty…)

just some thoughts

julie

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Hard to say. Do you have images of what you want to build? The top of the ring should be the thickest area. So that the center stones don’t pop/fall out. The shank of the ring should gently taper down a bit.

I think it also depends on the ring size, white gold vs yellow gold, 14 kt vs 18 kt.

For instance, a thin, size 11 ring is going to have different structural issues than a thin, size 5.

Personally, I think going to a jewelry store to look at, hold and maybe try on a bunch of rings is going to be very helpful information. Also, looking at blank rings or just ring shanks at Stuller Settings, Otto Frei or other sources to see what their measurements are will show you how industry answers this question.

As what Julie and Jo are saying there are a lot of variables. It’s hard to give a general answer without knowing all of the specifics.

At least those are my thoughts. Hope that helps a little bit!

Jeff

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