I have pierced various simple designs on sterling earrings for years. I would like to add some enamel over them. How wide does the pierced line need to be so that the enamel won’t jump over the line and fill it in? I have read The Art of Fine Enameling by Karen Cohen but can’t find the answer to this question. The book is a good reference book with lots of basic information and how to’s and very nice projects as examples of different enameling techniques. Thanks…Rob
Hi, Rob,
This is a piece I made recently. Is this what you’re talking about?
It’s pierced copper (22 gauge, iirc), slightly domed, with one layer of counter enamel and two layers on top. All Thompson’s unleaded opaque. 3” in diameter.
Since you’re talking earrings, this example may be too big. Hope it helps, though.
Tricia
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That’s a cool piece and way more complicated than I am thinking about. I just pierce simple designs like trees, leaves, and abstracts that are basically just different sized lines defined by the size of the blade that I am using. Since I am brand new to enamel, I am just curious how narrow a line can get before the capillary action of the enamel jumps over the line. I am experimenting now and may eventually figure this out if I can stop just melting the metal as I heat the enamel. Thanks for the help. I have been making jewelry for a long time, but enamel is a whole different relationship with metal than I am used to but it has been a lot of fun so far…Rob
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If you’re using sterling, you usually have to depletion gild it (bring the fine silver to the surface). Have you been doing that?
Plus I’m guessing since you mentioned melting the metal that you’re torch firing the earrings. I usually use a kiln, and while I have torch fired enamels, it was years ago, so maybe someone with more experience than me could help you with that aspect.
Good luck. I bet they’ll be lovely.
Tricia
You are correct that I am torch firing and it is on sterling silver. I don’t have any trouble preparing the silver and cleaning it. In the process it gets depletion gilded. I can successfully enamel the silver. I have noticed that it will sometimes pull away from the edge. I am assuming that this is a result of fire scale appearing or it is just dirty. I have not been counter enameling as the metal is fairly thick (around 20 gauge). If I counter enamel, I might as well use copper as none of the metal will show. I kind of like the looks of enamel on one side and polished silver on the other. I think that I have figured out that the pierced line can be fairly narrow before the enamel jumps the line. I recently started engraving and have concluded that I need another lifetime to get good at it. It appears that the same is true of enameling. I am 75, so I better get busy. Thanks for your help…Rob
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I forgot to add this question to my previous post. Can you enamel on a gold or silver filled piece of metal?
Rob,
I don’t know the answer to your question, but Rio Grande sells diamond jeweler’s saw blades. It looks like 1 mm is the thinnest. Seems like you might be able to pierce, then enamel and then clean any enamel mess in your piercing with a diamond jeweler’s saw blade. I only checked Rio. There might be other sources for even thinner diamond jeweler’s saw blades out there.
Just a thought.
Jeff
Hi Rob. Are you talking about torch-fired plique-à-jour other words, enameling in the pierced openings? I’ve never tried that before; I use a kiln. It might be possible. Anyway, I know there’s an ideal maximum opening for plique-a-jour technique; however, I had an enameling teacher who taught us that you can build up the enamel, little by little, in larger spaces where capillary action won’t usually work. But I haven’t done that a lot – I usually do what Tricia has shown – dip pierced works into liquid enamel.
As for gold- or silver-filled metals, I haven’t tried that yet either. I would like to hear how that goes, but seems workable – often I enamel on top of gold and silver foil over copper pieces.
When enameling, apply whatever you will be using on your piece according to the process you’re already using, except use a toothpick to remove grains of enamel from the tiny places where you don’t want it. Much better to do this step before you fire it, rather than trying to stone it off (with an Alundum stone made for the purpose) later. Doing it later may damage a delicate surface. If you’re having trouble with the enamel pulling away from the edges, it’s possibly a matter of needing to clean the edges better or sifting your enamels a bit more effectively. Would love to see some pictures of what you’re making.
Nancy
Nancy Lee Designs
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What I am doing is nothing special. I am just trying to learn how to apply a little color to my work. This has been a long journey. I have always used lapidary and will continue to do so, but lapidary is very time consuming and then I have to make a custom bezel. I will save it for more expensive pieces. I have learned to use resin, both 2 part and UV, and now enamel. I like that enamel is hard, because resin isn’t. I will likely only torch fire because I am adding it to an already made piece, although I may also explore setting an enameled piece much like a stone is set. I did discover yesterday that a very old kiln that I rebuilt and added a PID controller to will get hot enough to enamel. Once I do a piece that I am proud to show, I will do so. Thanks for all the help and encouragment…Rob
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Hey, Rob. Enameling is fun and you can do a lot with a little. Or that’s how I started anyway. Enjoy it and I’m cheering you on from the sidelines.
Nancy
Nancy Lee Designs
Besides directly from Thompson, can you suggest a good place to buy general enameling supplies and tools. I like to support smaller suppliers when I can. Thanks…Rob
Hi Rob,
You can purchase the full line of Thompson Enamels as well as a good selection of materials from Enamel Warehouse. Shipping is quick and I believe it’s free with a minimum purchase.
Pam
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Thanks…Rob
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For starters it is important that enamel be counter enameled. Doing that with a torch can really mess up the counter enamel. The only way to do it with a torch is to heat the counter enamel last and only enough for it to stick in what is called “sugar”.
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Rob, Seattle Findings is having a 10% off sale. They sell Thompson enamels.
https://www.seattlefindings.com/
I found this looking for Schauer, have not done business with e-namels but looks interesting:
I’ve used Thompson and Schauer (no longer sold by Rio). Schauer is also available here:
https://vitrumsignum.com/product-category/enamels/schauer/
Regards,
Neil
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Neil…Thanks…Rob
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Enamel always shrinks when it cools and will leave a bare edge no matter how clean the metal is. Copper oxidizes and leaves a nice black outline where silver just looks bare. You can wet pack enamel right up to a very thin pierced line, but it will always pull back. Wet pack enamel only two to four grains thick for each firing, otherwise it will tend to droop when fired. 20 gauge is too thin to use without a counter enamel, it will crack or eventually pop off with out counter enamel. If you use fine silver instead of sterling, it eliminates a lot of headaches. If you are using transparent enamel, unleaded enamels have much better color, transparency, and sparkle. Most of my enamels are Japanese, but I don’t know if you can get them in the states now. Scchauer enamels also work well, I was always disappointed with Thompson’s.
Oops, I meant to say leaded transparent enamels look much better.
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Thanks, there is a lot packed into this post and I have a lot to learn…Rob