I’ve owned the Contenti economy rolling mill and I’m quite content
(sorry for the pun) with it.
I’m not a professional by any means. But so long as you don’t expect
too much bite per pass and your metal is well annealed, even an
amateur like me can roll decent amounts of sheet and wire from
ingots, and my purpose was essential independence from any mail-order
fabrication firm.
Andrew
...having a piece of jewelry ruined because the rollers weren't aligned.
Has there been a thread on aligning the rollers on mills? What is
your method?
Paf Dvorak
Michele. sorry, but I am kinda late to this conversation. I
recentlypurchased a Durston C130 and it is wonderful. I was using
one of the inexpensive “india” versions before I splurged on the
Durston.
Which. leaves me with the inexpensive rolling mill gathering dust.
So, if you will shoot me an email we can talk about a low cost (like
free) transfer of this mill from my shop to yours 
It is not a
combo unit, but has both flat and wire rollers. It is a pain in the
butt to change rolls though. I have used it for both milling wire
and reducing flat stock as well as roll printing and it does an ok
job. It really does not have the oomph to do roll printing like a
Durston. Works fine for wire reduction though. I use a mill a lot
and it just was not doing it for me. And. I wanted the Durston and
was looking for any reason to buy one
Newt
I was toying with the idea of purchasing a motorised Cavalin, but hand rolling is more fun.
I’m personally terrified of motorized rolling machines.
Paf Dvorak
I'm interested to see what other tool my Orchid friends would categorize as a better investment - other than education.
Theres one tool thats even more important than a mill or fire, or as
you say knowhow.
It HAS to be the hammer.
Are Cavallin and Dinkl still producing mills? How come they are
never mentioned on Orchid. I have a Cavallin from way back when…
Janet in Jerusalem
you can motorise it at some later stage
Ted, I have been thinking about that, I have the Durston 130 mill,
but love to motorise it, any suggestions what kind of motor you need
and how to do it?
Peter
Spain
I agree with James B. It’s worth it to buy the best when it comes to
nonconsumable tools. What I discovered is that large dealers will
sell floor models or open box models for a few hundred less. Rio
grande sold me a Durston 130mm set up for 200 or 300 bucks off
because it was an open box or demo model. There was not a single
mark on any of the rollers. It’s an investment for a poor teacher
like me at about 1k but I am so pleased with thequality and
performance of a Durston. Like James is saying you don’t wanta tool
that you have to struggle with. I use the oiled sponge wedged in
between the top of the rollers method of cleaning the rollers
because I live in Florida. Then I use a dust cover when not in use.
It’s the finest made tool I’ve ever owned and it’s worth every
penny. I struggled with the same situation of not knowing whether to
look for a cheaper or used mill but everyone in Florida was asking
400 or 500 bucks for old rusted mills of varying manufacture. I
realized what the hell, I mind as well spend the extra 500 and get a
brand new top of the line large and heavy duty mill.
Just wanted to share my experience to help with your choice. Good
luck.
Rick Powell
Hi Michelle
I made oversized platform bases for the rolling mills. They are
incredibly HEAVY. When moving them out of storage onto the truck the
top of the flat mill fell (smashed) onto the friend’s big toe that I
got them from. Needless to say - toe was not the same (broken in 2
places).
Platforms are about 50% wider than the cast iron base. I based the
wheel /caster size on the engineered weight of the item to be
supported. Typical engineering factor is 150% of what you know will
not work (structurally fail). The mill weighs about 350 lbs. I used
a 3/4 cdx ply for the base and 125 lb casters (400 lbs support). It
moves when pushed but barely. Haven’t put locking bolts into the
ply, because I haven’t needed to yet. Mostly I have rolled 18 ga
silver down to 26 ga. It doesnt budge anywhere.
I do have some rope stops to circle two wheels if needed or
sandbags.
overall there were lots of different casters (probably 120) from
various places, Home Depot, a local True Value hardware, Shamrock
Supply (used to Gardena Industrial Hardware) which is my favorite
hardware store. You just have to read labels. Check if the wheels
are omnidirectional or if they swivel. Buy ones with locks if that
is best. You would need 2 locking wheels out of 4.
Eileen
PS if you want to watch raccoons get freaked out try clicking your
tongue as loudly as you can at them. Its a threatening sound that
they make short of snarling warfare. I have populations of them that
inhabit my immediate area. Literally sometimes within a jump away on
the other side of the wall or window. I purr conversations at them
or click depending on how well they are behaving. The other night
three juvenile siblings were scrapping outside my bedroom window
(12:30am) casting shadow silhouettes on my blinds. Bad puppet show
from a stair light. I finally went out and turned a garden hose on
them to break it up after 15 + minutes. One would not come down
-remaining carefully balanced on a handrail. That one became quiet
as a church mouse. If you don’t want them around liberally dust an
infested area with the hottest red pepper you can buy in 1-2 lb
bags. Cayenne works well. They have very cute little monkey hands
backed up with what is best described as sharp dog claws. Their
little paws are very sensative.
Michele,
Here is a link to an Ali Baba listing for a mill that does seven
square wire sizes, four half round shanks and 57mm of flat sheet on a
combo machine. You can buy it direct if you dare for under $400, but
I think you can find the same model on ebay for about the same price
and have some recourse if the transaction goes South.
I have been considering one of these, but I can’t tell you whether
it is a good idea or not. The votes seem about evenly divided, to me.
Best,
Roy
If I had some serious money to spend, I would get a Durston double
roller. Whatever I get a chance, I use the double rolling mill at
Metalwerx. The gear ratio is perfect, and using it is a pleasure. I
joke to my students, if I could get married to a tool, I would marry
that particularrolling mill. Currently, I have a Cavalin from Otto
Frei that is missing its’ handle, so I can’t use it, but thought of
having it motorized, but it’s a grand just for the gearbox.
I use a cheap but huge Indian-made rolling mill I got from Contenti.
That thing weighs about 150 lbs, but is a double roller - one set of
grooved rollers and one set of smooth, flat rollers. Poor quality
steel and I’ve already need to find a way to replace one of the
gears. However, it has one bonus for I can roll a taper down to 21g.
so I can draw down to 21g., something I was never able to do with
any other rolling mill. Another lovely quirk, the handle is
backward, so I have to turn the handle in the opposite direction. As
a result, I’ve got linebacker shoulders from using the darn rolling
mill.
If you ever take a workshop or class at Metalwerx, you will really
appreciate the Durston rolling mill they have. I’m so glad I’m an
instructorthere, and I use the mill every chance I get.
Joy
We reduce prices on products to move them out of our showroom, and
this is what we did with the last of our Durstons, they went quick.
When asked when we’ll be getting stock of Durstons again the answer
is “highly unlikely”.
Regards Charles A.
I'm personally terrified of motorized rolling machines.
All machines, especially ones that can hurt you, have to be treated
with respect 
A powered rolling mill is an awesome tool, but may be over kill if
you don’t do much rolling. Rolls chunks of metal like butter.
Regards Charles A.
Hi
with all tools the old saying
I am too poor to buy cheap tools!
Is always good advice. Quality lasts a life time.
Richard
Xtines Jewels
Are Cavallin and Dinkl still producing mills? How come they are never mentioned on Orchid. I have a Cavallin from way back when.....
I sure hope they’re still making Cavalins. the store where I work
sells them 
CIA
Are Cavallin and Dinkl still producing mills? How come they are never mentioned on Orchid. I have a Cavallin from way back when.....
Cavallin went out of business for several years however in poking
around on the net I appears that they have resurrected as Leonardo
Cavallin SRL and are offering the same line of products. On the
website they look like the same mills
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep80gl
James Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts
Hi Paf
I’m on the road, and tapping this out on my phone, so I can’t look
up the URL, but I wrote up a step by step instruction for realigning
mill rollers. It’s on my web site (www.alberic.net). Look under
“tools”.Complete with pictures of tearing down a Durston.
Regards,
Brian Meek
Cavallin went out of business for several years however in poking around on the net I appears that they have resurrected as Leonardo Cavallin SRL and are offering the same line of products. On the website they look like the same mills http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep80gl
We definitely have some Cavallins in stock. guess I should raise the
price ;-)… nah just kidding 
CIA
I am completely mystified by most everybody recommending Durston
mills.
At the same time, no objective criteria is used to justify such
recommendation.
I do not use Durston. So I went on their website trying to gain some
understanding of their construction, but details are skimpy and
selective. So I am curious.
What are the objective criteria to recommend Durston?
If object is to purchase mill which would last a lifetime, Cavallin,
or any other of the same technical characteristics, is the most
likely to fulfill this requirement. Cavallin make available such
details as type of bearings which are bronze, roll hardness which
are 63 HRC, roll diameter which is 65mm, and overall weight heavier
than Durson which is a good indication of over-engineering to insure
long life. Note that Durston does not publish roll hardness.
It is interesting that tool vendors do not publish roll diameters
either. Roll diameters can be found on Durston website, but vendors
do not want you to know that they are smaller than competitors.
And roll diameter is critical consideration in selecting a mill.
There are mills available which exceed Durston objective criteria
and cost less. For someone on limited budget such mills are far
superior choice. I am not going to mention trade names.
I do not work for their marketing departments and I do not do free
ad campaigns. But someone in the market for rolling mill should start
with educating oneself on what makes one mill better than others and
use gained knowledge to shop and compare intelligently. That way one
does not become a victim of technical gibberish designed to conceal
quality deficiencies of a product.
Leonid Surpin
Ted, I have been thinking about that, I have the Durston 130 mill, but love to motorise it, any suggestions what kind of motor you need and how to do it?
Hi Peter,
The numbering of Durston mills may have changed since i bought mine
over 30 yrs ago.
Mine has 5in wide rolls, half is flat and half is square grooves,
and it has shaft extensions for additional section wheels.
The rolls run in plain aluminium bronze bearings To motorise mine, I
hunted down a cast iron electric grinder stand.
Onto the top of which I bolted the mill.
Then I removed the handle with its gear thats hollow, that turns on
a fixed shaft set in the mill body.
Had durston send me a spare gear with its parallel shaft onto which
I mounted a 9in dia aluminium 2 “A” section pulley.
Then I mounted half way down the grinder stand a flat steel plate
onto which I bolted 2 bearings that took a 1in shaft.
On to this I had a 2 section 3in pulley and inside this one another
12in pulley single “A” section. both grub screwed onto flats on the
shaft the shaft.
Then down near the stand base a 1hp 1440 rpm motor with a single 1in
dia pulley.
total reduction from the motor to the mill imput gave an rpm of 40.
The drive belts are pretty tight and any slip was on the motor
pulley.
Theres a particular rolling job I do occasionally that needs me to
use the handle. I have to roll some square section material for 1in
then reverse the handle direction to back it out, reduce the roll gap
and repeat progressively along the material.
To do this I slacken off the mill bolts, remove 2 opposite the 12in
pulley, tip the mill to lift off the 2 final belts then put on the
handle.
Belts are safer than gears. I can mill long lengths of material with
2 hands to guide the in and out.
I found in B’ham some 20 yrs ago another hand mill, some what
studier tho still 6in wide rolls.
This had a 24in cast iron wheel with a handle on it with similar
mill rpm reduction.
I motorised this mill for a big rolling job where I had to take a
36in long by 3in wide 70/30 brass strip, and reduce it so it became
48in long. ie from 036 to 029 in.
There I used a 3hp 1440rpm motor also with a 2in single “A” pulley.
This worked well with suitable imput guides.
Total no of brass strips to roll 210 for a 2500 off minting project.
Hope this helps.
Ted