on the avocational part - there is a solution to your dilemma.
Paleontologists use cyanoacrylate in the field to coat fossils to
stabilize them before jacketing and transport. I once spent several
days in the museum lab removing cyanoacrylate that had been too
liberally applied to a fossil turtle shell - thus not only
stabilizing the actual fossil but about 3 lbs of the surrounding dirt
and matrix. It should be much easier with your bowl, as the alabaster
is less porous than the turtle shell was.
The procedure goes like this:
Start out in a well ventilated room or, ideally, under a fume hood.
Spread newspaper or something absorbent under the bowl to catch the
dissolved glue and acetone. Then - the tedious part starts. Using a
paint brush, an acid brush or maybe a cotton swab (which is what I
used) and acetone, load the brush with acetone and saturate a small
area at a time. Let it sit for a minute or so and then use paper
towels (you'll use a lot if it's a big bowl) to "wick" the residue
from the crack. Repeat as often as needed. Once you have the pieces
separated, you can give them a thorough cleaning, so that you can do
the repairs properly.
You can also check with a company called "Uncommon Conglomerates"
(they generally have a booth with the "fossil guys" in Tucson - I
think their website is www.uncommonconglomerates.com or try Google
for "Paleo Bond") to see if they have anything that will un-do
cyanoacrylate. I know that they make an accellerant (sp?) to shorten
the bonding time for cyanoacrylate, so they might have a reversing
agent as well.
On a side note - a Russian paleontologist once told me that in
Russia they used alcohol based glues because they are easier to
Hope this helps!
Weller's Jewelry and Beads