I have read your article on making an invisible setting and i have a
client who is interested in having one made, where do you obtain the
diamonds and in particular Princess cut diamonds which have the
groove cut in them to fit into the invisible setting?
Simon- The only place I know that sells the notched diamonds for
this is Signature Jewelry in LA.
If I recall correctly Van Cleef and Arpels made this style of
setting famous.
I’ve worked on these but never made one from scratch.
It’s lovely to look at but can be fragile. I find it’s best suited
to pendants and earrings. The rings look spectacular, but seem to
fail fairly often. I would not recommend this style for daily wear.
If your client wishes to wear an invisible set ring daily, I’d
recommend getting extra stones just in case.
I’m betting that a laser would be a dandy tool for just such a
project. A good microscope will help too.
If you go ahead and do this I’d love to see the finished product and
hear about your adventure into this technique.
Stuller has princess cuts with grooves in the girdle. But this
setting technique is very difficult unless you’ve been trained to do
it. It’s not going to be easy for a first attempt. Personally, I
don’t even pretend to know how to pull it off, and I’ve done a lot of
all kinds of diamond setting.