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Diamond Setting patterns! <=> Larger Stones

How many ways are there to set an Engagement ring Diamond?

“The opinions & techniques on Diamond Setting, are expressly those of this Blog-Author”. The listing of these setting patterns” are from my work-experience spanning ONLY 60 years!

Although there are many ways to set a Diamond, or Gemstone. With the assistance of the ‘Computer Aided Design’ program this dramatically helps the jeweller in designing an appropriate ring to match the new diamond.

During the past many years styles have evolved & changed, but the basic designs, still stay with ‘us’.

With each photograph; I’ll explain in detail where each stone is finally used with what size it can take.

Suffice to say, these patterns are now to be kept in these blog-archives for posterity. Some of these patterns have gone by the wayside and not seen much these days.

“In writing about them; I ask "Not now, when else? And if not by me, who then will take their time in explaining these styles?"

Furthermore, I’m not doing this project for myself, I’m writing this blog for everyone and including YOU! So let’s now start!


Let’s start with two ‘popular rings listed as ( A-B )’ from the 1960-70’s. I learned to set these stones during my formative years in learning to set large stones.

=> A) This Gent’s ring , ’ out of style ’ had a novel way of holding the stone into the ring. No ‘Setting of Stones in Wax’ in those earlier days everything had to be set by hand. No errors, or mistakes were allowed, “ We learned perfection” right from the beginning!

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The size of the stone was quite limiting, as it had to be of a size that still allowed the four corner bars, each to be saw-blade cut & and the little

amount of metal to be lightly pushed over the stone.

The stone size was usually from .15 ó to .40 point size.

But thankfully, this pattern has been deleted and ‘put out to pasture’ => The next ‘out of style’ engagement ring was named

Flat-Topped Design ”, the diamond range was in .18 ó .38 point. I know these facts personally, as they were the cornerstone for sales of the company I once worked for. Because of the style of head, these rings were sold to the newly married couple who had a very limited budget!

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A “6-Claw/Prong head” was so popular and still is, why so? It gives a great deal of security & as well lets the customer see much of the stone as possible! The stone range is about .50 points ó 1.00 carat .

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One of the best and basic rings ever created was & still is the 4-claw head ! There are no limitations as to what size of stone can go into this head. I’ve seen a stone in this ring design from basically a .30 point size & to over 1.50 carats . I prefer to have my CAD person have the stone prior to designing thus making ring perfectly fit the stone!

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One of the most popular styles in Fancy-Cut stones is the “ Pear-Shape ”! I’ve seen either a round claw, or a “VEE” shaped claw covering the point of the stone. Either method, the point of the stone is paramount in protection and security from breakage! In this design, I’d prefer “Double-claws”, as one claw is too fragile in the ‘security department’. The size of the diamond (measuring in mm’s) is dependent upon also the customer’s budget. I’ve seen .75 (3/4 carat) ó 2.00 carat sizes , but these would be then carefully CAD designed just for these “Fancy-Cut” stones.

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The most popular is the “ Cluster-top” , now this can be such a wonderful showing of diamonds, why so?

When all of the diamonds when placed “side by side” the effect is great! It gives the customer more access to “ Show & Bling ” & for less money spent . This ring has 16, (3.0mm’s) stones of .08 points EACH and a .15+ point (4.5mm’s) center! I like this design as it gives height, as well as width. You will see the same ring style, but now seen as a pendant option.

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Halo rings ”, so darned great to look at … even though these shown are only in silver and set with CZ’s. As all of these ‘essays rings’ are in silver and set with CZ’s . The diamond sizes used are 16, .015 points and a center size depending on the stone requested.

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This ring is CAD created WITH THE STONES on hand. No guessing, or ‘mix to match’!

The CAD creator needs all of the diamond measurements before his skill of computer-designing takes place!!!

The favourite choice of stones for these special rings are either in a Round shape, or using Cushion-cut stones. I personally prefer a stone with no sharp corners (Square or Princess-cut). If this stone is needed, there may be some problems while in setting.

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Square stone, or Princess Ring !” There are many designs where a square, or Princess-stone can be set. Some are shown here in this essay. I use two different styles in my teaching to my students, which is best is your choice. Again for that special order, I suggest to get your ring CAD created. Remembering, that all claws must eventually not be bent over to grab the stone. On this particular style of a ring, it is advisable to “Pre-Polish” lightly prior to setting.

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“Tube-Set and Half-Bezel ring ”. One thing to understand is that in any Tube-Setting, there is an amount of 10-15% of the metal covering the stone. Appraising is quite difficult and leads to much guess-work. If you select this style of ring, get the stone ‘Pre-Certed” prior to setting, or as it’s properly named “Pre-Appraised”.

Remembering, that there could be an ‘inclusion’ just at where the girdle is now being covered!!

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“Triangular, shoulder-stones”. This particular shape of stone is very delicate to set. I’d ask you to be careful in working with these shapes of stones. In the empty mount, I was asked to set Triangular-shaped, Rose-Cut diamonds but have them upside down…what? Yup! The studio owner requested them to be “Culet” up & then the “Table facet” facing down!!! The nice part is that the corners were completely covered & protected. In the center, the owner wanted her “Rose-Cut” center-stone secured with not 6, but 8 claws! Too many claws and all are covering the multi-faceted stone!
(There was a further challenge; as her initial design made that I couldn’t set her shoulder stones. I had to re-design the end-bezels and give more space between the ‘head & the shoulder bezel-claws’ all of this with the help of my CAD designer.)

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Another pattern is having two Triangular stones on the shoulders. I prefer to have the shoulder stones mounted, or set first . Then Laser-solder the head, why this convoluted process? I need full access to the mini-claws, filing of the claws, then getting the polishing process completed.

The corners of these stone are so sharp, you can break them just by looking at them. Once the stones were set, I “Bright-Cut” the inside of the “Vee” shaped claws. Do the “Rouge polishing”, post setting post.

Setting this delicate stone is a 9 out of 10 on the “Difficulty Scale”.

But I had to ‘archive my past experiences’ in creating this new ring, was this easy? NO! But I found that knowing the procedure in how to set a Princess ‘Vee’ shaped claw, greatly help me!

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I didn’t want ‘big blobs of metal’ holding the little stone.

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Marquise shaped stone” . I prefer to have two, round-shaped, end-claws giving security to the points of this fancy-cut stone. The claw tips must be made round & smooth to your touch. In this case, the center stone is set first, then the shoulder-stones are set afterwards ! I’m even thinking of pre-polishing the Marquise-stone claws first.

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If I attempted to set the shoulder stones first, then the center stone next, many of these claws could get crooked. You might even lose a stone after a short while . It could get to be a quite a messy setting job! “Center first, then the shoulders, agree?”
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When setting an Oval stone, I’d prefer to use round tipped claws, as these are more aesthetically appealing.

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In this essay, I prefer to show how the larger stones are set. In the next essay and accompanying this essay (part 2) are setting for smaller stones…for example; Gypsy/Flush, Shared Claws and a mini, 4-claw layout.

For private training in Diamond Setting, I offer in-house training programs from 3 to 5 days.