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Diamond set in Onyx


#1

Diamond set in onyx

I need some suggestions, so I’m hoping those of you who have done
this before can help… A customer would like me to make him a ring
in white gold - rect. buff top onyx (which is coming from Stuller)
with diamond pave set in squared WG plate.

It’ll be a larger diamond than you normally see in this type of
setting - customer wants a 3/8 ct, which leads me to the first
question: is it likely I’ll need to have the hole drilled larger than
usual so I can set the diamond as low as possible (obviously without
the culet touching the finger) so the plate doesn’t have to be so
thick to accommodate this larger stone?

The other question is about what to solder under the plate.
Tubing, rather than that screw finding? And since it’ll be basically
invisible, yellow gold instead of white so it’ll flange easier? Any
other thoughts?

Thanks in advance,
Cindy
Refined Designs


#2

Pretty much what is ask is what you need to do. The diamond should
be in a thicker plate, probably, like 1mm or something. You can’t use
a screw, because there’s going to be a big hole drilled in the middle
for the stone. So, you need to drill it and make the plate ready for
the diamond, and then solder a piece of tubing that’s big enough to
go around the hole, and make sure it’s not going to get cut away
when opening up for the pavilion of the stone - happens sometimes.
Then have the onyx opened up for the tubing - not vice-versa. Have
them add a little notch on the side of the hole, which will keep the
top from spinning. You can use most anything for the tubing,
traditionally people even use silver. The onyx is quite fragile, and
you’re gonna put the squeeze on it…