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Delft clay casting


Dear George,

Merry Christmas! I am afraid the site, being Dutch, is of little use
to you; in fact it is experimental, I am setting it up for the Dutch
Enamelist Society. However, if you still want to have a look at the
Delft clay casting, here is the address: Be sure to copy exactly
capitals etc., because the Unix server is quite fussy about that. I
shall start translating into English, but it will be a while before I
have finished that portion. I will let you know when it is finished,
probably couple of weeks.

By the way, some of my text that you read on Orchid/archives was
garbled up because I used special ASCII characters. Here it is
without extended character set: … UV sensitive polymer (in
fact Miraclon with metal back). The unexposed polymer is then washed
out with a soft brush in lukewarm (about 35 deg Celsius 3D 32 +
35*9/5 3D 95 deg Fahrenheit) water …

Kind regards Philip H Quanjer @Philip_Quanjer


Has anyone ever centrifugally cast a delft clay flask? I don’t do
lost wax casting, but do some delft clay casting. I have a
centrifugal casting outfit that I have never used to include the
arm, oven, flasks and various other accessories. I was thinking of
using clay in one of the flask to see if it improved the quality of
the casting. I would just be casting shapes that I can easily get out
of the clay once the shape is formed. I am sure that there may also
be a down side (the clay moves, the metal solidifies before it gets
to where it should go, etc.). I would appreciate any thoughts.
Thanks. Rob

Rob Mexner


Hi Rob,

You definitely want to use a bottom flask that has a bottom.
Otherwise, I’d worry about it punching though. Delft doesn’t have
much strength.

(and use a machine that has a splash guard. And wear a face-shield
and leather apron.)

Other than being damned careful, I can’t think of a reason not to
try it. May not work well, but it’s worth a try, at least for
ring-scale things. Probably work better with silver than bronze.
Start small. Work up.