Decent jump ring cutter?

Jewelry Discussion
1

Hello.

I have a Pepe jump ring jig and a Foredom drive but I seem to
overheat and jam the metal blades I’m using when cutting a coil of
sterling silver rings. I do use cutting wax to lubricate. Is there a
more expensive machine that does this better? What are the
wholesalers using?

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Many thanks.
Rick & Sheila
McQ Designs.Com

2

I use bur life on the cutter and go at it SLOWLY. I have had a jump
ringer for 12 years and this is the way I learned to use it. Also,
it a tooth gets damaged on the cutter you have to get another or it
will buck and not work well.

Susan
www.ThorntonStudioJewelry.com

3

Hi Rick,

Contact Dave Arens (an active member of Orchid) email: he is in Tucson, I believe he makes a very good
jump ringer.

Jennifer Friedman

4

Rick:

I teach chain making and have worked with a number of power jump
ring cutters. I have been very satisfied with the "Koil Kutter"
manufactured and sold by “Gemsetc” in Tucson, Az. The device is not
very expensive, can be powered by a Foredom or Dremel or Proxon.

I’ve have two and have used them for at least six years for my chain
making classes and workshops with excellent success.

I like to place my coil holder in a vice so that I can use both
hands to draw the cutting head down the slot in the coil holder. You
should have your power tool running at its highest rpm when you
start cutting the coil. You should not move the cutting head into
the coil faster than th blade can cut. If you move the cutting head
too fast, you can jam the blade. A dull blade can also cause an
excessive load on the power tool and cause it to jam.

I hope this is of some help to you.

howard siegel

5

It’s the old story: “You get what you pay for”. Our original Jump
Ringer, although initially more costly than the various knock-offs
(Pepe’s Jump Ring Maker, Dave Arens’ Koil Kutter, etc.), proves to
soon be more economical.

  1. Blades will last longer because of the more sophisticated design
    of the blade arbor and of the blade itself.

  2. One size blade will cut the full range of wire diameters.

  3. Jump Ringers have 4 different size V grooves in the coil holder
    vs. only 1 in the copies. This translates into better securing of the
    coil while cutting. It also allows for the production of much larger
    diameter rings (up to finger sizes for finger and toe rings).

  4. The copies can make and cut coils up to 3" (76mm) long because
    that’s what ours did when they “invented” theirs. Our short models
    now wind and cut 5" (127mm) long coils in about the same time.That
    translates into greater productivity and reduced scrap. If production
    needs dictate, a 15" (381mm) long version with power winding is
    available.

  5. The winder’s chuck on all copies have a 3/8" (9.5mm) keyless
    chuck for low cost. The Jump Ringer’s is a 1/2" (12.5mm) keyed Jacobs
    chuck for greater versatility and better holding power.

  6. Fancy shaped (oval, square, triangle and diamond) jump rings may
    be made with the Jump Ringer by purchasing the appropriate accessory.

Rick Maddocks’ original posting asked, " Is there a more expensive
machine that does this better?" The answer is yes it’s called Jump
Ringer. You get what you pay for.

Ray Grossman
Ray Grossman Inc.
Inventors and manufacturers of
Jump Ringer Systems

6

Hi Rick and All

I junked the sawblade for my jumpringer pretty quickly and now use a
diamond disc in my Foredom and cut freehand. It makes a much smaller
slice. On occasion, before actually sawing the jumps, I use a
heatless mizzy to grind off part of the jump ring (usually at the
cut) thus getting more of a contact if I solder the ring to
something.

Lainie

7

Hi Ray,

5. The winder's chuck on all copies have a 3/8" (9.5mm) keyless
chuck for low cost. The Jump Ringer's is a 1/2" (12.5mm) keyed
Jacobs chuck for greater versatility and better holding power.

The above statement is incorrect.

The winder that goes with the Koil Kutter has a 1/2" Jacob’s chuck.

Dave