Nice work, Jill. May I add just a few points here?
pencil-like/knife-like instrument of your choosing. The
flat edge from sawing the bone in half will be where your sprue
is, so try to keep the design close to that edge. Carve a funnel
for the sprue at the top and a channel leading from that to your
design. Try to make it as wide as possible.
The sprue doesn’t always have to be on the parting line. Anyone
else tried putting the sprue through the back? Try drilling through
the tough skin and carving out a funnel shape with a huge
countersink. I do button or coin shapes that way. After pouring the
casting the sprue is attached to the back and may become a useful
blob to attach the button/coin. Want two blobs to make into a
brooch? then drill two holes al la sand casting, and pour the metal
down one hole til it appears up the other.
Then add some vents (6 or more) by dragging a scribe/ pin tip
from the outer edge of the design to the edge of the bone. This
will help the metal flow in better.
Many people may like the cuttlebone texture, so to get this scrub
hard with a toothbrush to enhance it. In that case, I’ve found you
won’t need to scratch vents.
together and tie them together using copper wire or binding
Rubber bands? Use several. I do use binding wire, and I need to
twist small sections into a Z shape to get it tight, just like
you’d do when binding a piece for soldering.
Another tip: cast first in pewter to check the flow in your
sprue/design. Repeat castings are possible if you don’t superheat
the pewter. When you’re satisfied, then pour with your choice of
metal, silver, gold, etc etc.
B r i a n � A d a m J e w e l l e r y E y e w e a r �
@Brian_Adam1 ph/fx +64 9 817 6816 NEW ZEALAND
http://www.adam.co.nz/workshop/ teaching workshops
http://www.adam.co.nz/ruthbaird/ wife, and another fab jeweller