Correct way to put a pearl on a ring

Jewelry Discussion
1

I have made a couple of rings that seem, in principle, and to the
eye, correct. I want to ask though because I don’t want to sell a
ring and have the pearl come off. I used a cup and peg that is meant
for an ear stud. I drilled a hole in the table of the ring and
soldered the ear post into the hole and then cut it off on the back
side, leaving the cup and peg on the top of the ring. I used Epoxy
330 to secure. Is there a better way? Will these pearls be apt to be
stable on the ring?

J. S. Ellington
jsellington@cs.com

2

Hi J.S.,

You want to be sure that the pearl cup itself is soldered to the
ring shank and not just the post. I have seen engagement ring heads
snap off when a ring is spot soldered and the solder doesn’t blead to
the body of the setting. The result is the post or peg breaks
easily.

Mark

3

I was taught by a pearl expert to use square stock wire, I use 14k
in .027", and twist it in a pen clamp. This makes for a “screw"
surface for the pearl and traps epoxy between the twists to make for
a secure hold. I usually make the post 1/4” long and I use 330
epoxy. So far no problems.

Reba