After going through every jewelry book that I own (and that is a
considerable quantity!) I can find no specific on this
subject, so I put it out to you; how is the comfort fit ring band
formed when fabricated? Is this a rolling mill result? A result of a
drawplate? Although I own two mills, one has flat rollers, and the
other is just a mini and will only produce square wire to be
subsequently pulled through a drawplate for other profiles.
Specifically I am thinking about rings made in mokume, whose pattern
would be disturbed by filing the edges.
So, “How do they do that?”
In addition, I once saw a pattern for a wooden tabletop drawing
"bench" and cannot locate it now. Anyone know of it?
We manufacture 4 sizes of comfort fit stock in all metal qualities
(karat gold, silver, platinum…) Each mill product fabricator may
have their own set of processes and dies that they put wire/rod
through to achieve the final desired profile. Our process involves
making half-round stock first, and then drawing through our special
comfort fit dies as the final process, to round the bottom of the
stock…The final stock matches the shape of our comfort fit bands,
allowing the jeweler to size them without metal waste and additional
labor. Also, the stock can be used for ring fabrication…
I hope that this will answer your question about the comfort
fit…You basically have a half round band that is thicker in the
center than normal,so that the inner edge can be beveled back
somewhat…The middle of the bump on the outside is a little
thicker/higher. There are several styles of this,some thicker/higher
than others. You do this step by file, in other words after the band
is formed. And then sand & rubber wheel to soften this bevel
edge…Then proceed to polish. Some manufacturers build the bands at
2.25 mm, 2.5mm etc… Check out Stuller.com for a picture or perhaps
to order…It really depends on what your customer wants for
thickness…You can also make a flat band, but remember it needs
some thickness so that it can have this inner bevel. It does feel
more comfortable for those who have never worn a ring…Every once in
awhile I have to make a slight bevel inside someone’s band the had
just a flat edge–it just won’t be that much of a comfort
fit…Take care, Jo-Ann Maggiora Donivan
I started with draw plates but the wire profile gets thinner as it
gets narrower so it limits the usable profiles. I now use custom
made side rolls on my rolling mill
James Binnion @James_Binnion
James Binnion Metal Arts
Just catching up or I’d have responded sooner. My apologies if this
has already been suggested.
I use a shallow half-round stock (a little wider than the desired
width of the finished band), but form the band with the dome to the
inside. You have to really force the metal into shape this way -
you’re working against the thickest part. When the ring has been made
and soldered to size, you can work away that edge, yet retain the
inner dome and total thickness. I like to make ring shanks this way.
It also occurs to me that forming the band with round wire and then
planishing and filing to achieve the final shape would work as well.
Haven’t tried it though. I’d want to start with a ring in a size
smaller than the final size.
At the end of the day, it’s easier to order a “comfort fit” band
ready-made… probably less expensive too. (Stuller stocks a good
variety of dimensions - no association, just a satisfied customer)
It is possible to get comfort fit draw plates. I know, because I used
one at the jewellery class at the night school I go to. I’ve never
noticed where it comes from, but could probably find out. It was for
fairly small wire. from memory about 6mm by 2.5 mm, but I’m sure
others are available too.