I was trying to decide how to mark/ identify/ differentiate (the profile of) my chasing tools (and needle and escapement files) (as they are stored in denim rolls, tip side in the pocket) …
stamping?..engraving?..paint/ nail polish/ permanent marker?..(which seem to chip/ wear off eventually)
…then I thought…whenever I see tools with colored stripes to identify them, I always think “what a great idea, I need to do that!”
so, I googled colored tape, and found this! excited! wanted to share! I will let you know how it holds up…9 colors, (better colors than some of the other assortment packs, IMHO)
I will cut the strips thinner…use one stripe for embossers, two stripes for planishers…
for the files, I can do 1 to 4 stripes to represent the cuts (many of my escapement (and needle) files are cut 2, 4, 6, and/or 8…can you tell they are my favorite files!)
A word of caution about the electrical tape. The glue tends to bleed and the tape tends to move a bit over time, and it gets to be a sticky mess. Maybe 3M tape isn’t like that but the tapes that I have tried are. I find masking tape to work a lot better. If you shop around you will find a variety of colors.
I tape many of my small tools because otherwise I simply can’t see them. I know that sounds strange, but I tend to not see a grey steel center punch on my bench, ditto other grey, black, or silver tools. However, if my center punch has some violet tape around it, even if I can’t tell you what color tape is on that tool, the instant my eye sees that color I know I have spotted the center punch. Quirky, idiosyncratic, whatever, that is how my eyesight works.
Anyway, I suggest you try masking tapes and metal paints, such as Rustoleum. Paint may chip, but enough will remain so you will spot the tool you want in an instant, and you can always repaint. Sticky tape glue is a drag.
I call it “Tool Blindness.” You look, and the tool you were just using is gone, simply gone. You search, but it’s still not there. You turn around, and suddenly it’s back, right where you left it.
I preffer heat shrinking tube.
It’s available in many colors and so easy to use and much practical the n
tape to my opinion.
I use the colors to separate all my burs aswell.
Stone setting burs are red, round burs are blue etc…
After a day of working it’s easier to sort them out.
It’s just comes in handy.
What I use are 7 bur pads, large round burs, small round & small bud-burs, 156c (under-cutting) small & large sizes… then one pad for the 77b cup-burs… I also have wooden boxes for the HSS 90 angle under-cutting burs. I’ll send some photos to show how organized setters & jewellers must be!! If not, you’d be spending a whole day looking for one single bur!
When you put the heat shrink tube on burs, is it applied only on the visible part of the shank when the bur is in use? Or does it extend the entire length of the shank?
Right now, I don’t colorize the handles out my tools, but it’s a great idea. My bench and work stations eat things, only to burp them up later. I wonder as I look around, "where did I take you to? "
I previously spent a decade at Disneyland as a decorator. I used the most fluorescent floral spray I could find to identify hand tools. Have 15 co-workers and virtually identical wirecutters, small Swiss army knives, specialty pliers and it’s difficult to keep your tools in a pouch or on your desk. Glowing hot orangey pink handles helped slot. No guy would dare walk of with them. If it wore off, you just give it another shot of spray. It dries almost instantly and isn’t sticky. I guess I need to do that again for some of my tools, but now I’m the culprit who moves things around. Michael’s Crafts carries the paint.
Eileen
I don’t color code my small tools because I have no need. But I recall from my years as a commercial boat builder a steel marking ink that was available for working on steel plate. It came in a small plastic bottle with a ball point pen like applicator. We only used yellow but I recall it was available in other colors. It stayed on the plate and was fairly flame resistant. We got it from the welding suppliers we used.
On my numerous Pillar & Triangular files, I only mark the grit-cut, nothing
else…too confusing to write everything! Such as 1 & 2 or a 4. Keep your
file I.D. as simple as possible! I use a black-marking pen on the steel,
“coloured paint” might wear off during the days of continual use!!
I cut a small part of 4 or 5mm, strip it over the shank of the bur untill it almost meets the cutting edge of the bur.
In other words, just behind the cutting edge if you look from the front of the bur.
I heat up the bur with a hair dryer and done.
It just takes a view seconds realy to mark your burs this way.
I don’t use shrinking tube along the complete lenght of the bur.
You’ll damage the shrinking tube.
I use it just enough to see the color of the tube.
,[quote=“Alec, post:6, topic:54418”]
I call it “Tool Blindness.” You look, and the tool you were just using is gone, simply gone. You search, but it’s still not there. You turn around, and suddenly it’s back, right where you left it.
[/quote]
No truer words have ever been spoken.
It is a comfort to know it doesn’t happen only to me.
using a sharpie to make stripes on my little files to identify cut is a great idea! I don’t really need to color code them for profile, as I can clearly see that on the files…it is just the tiny cut number that is hard to find/ see.
I guess for 2,4,6,8 cut, I can just use 1,2,3,4 stripes
I tried the electrical tape solution to mark the cut of my small files. I cut a 1/8" piece that wrapped around the diameter of each handle end a couple of times. In a few days, even without use, the tape began to unravel. With use, the heat from my hands added to the problem… hence the “sticky mess.”
I like the model paint idea… Plan to use that next as I have a 5-6 jars around here somewhere :O)
Also, I think Sharpie marker will rub off with regular use from the oils in your hands.
The thing that I’ve used on tools, for years, is automotive touch up
paint. It comes in small, nail polish sized bottles, a wide variety of
colors, and lasts nearly forever, especially if you heat set it with a
hair dryer or heat gun.
