Hi Everyone,
I am producing batches of antiqued silver pendants ( about 30 at a
time) and am having problems cleaning away the polishong compound
without damaging the antique finish. I end up with the antiquing
removed or with yelowiish white blotches. I am using JAX Silver
Blackener (Hydrochlic Acid and Zelluruim) and cleaning the pieces
after polishing in an ultra-sonic using REY Super Sonic
Soap(ammoniated). I have had to resort to cleaning each piece by
hand with a tooth brush and it takes up way too much of my time. Any
suggestions?
Thanks
Steve Wiser
Wiser Jewelry
I think that the ammonia may have something to do with removing the
antiquing. The whitish places may be where the build up of buffing
compound prevented the fine silver coat that may have built up
during soldering, being buffed or removed.
marilyn smith
am having problems cleaning away the polishong compound without
damaging the antique finish. I end up with the antiquing removed
or with yelowiish white blotches. I am using JAX Silver Blackener
(Hydrochlic Acid and Zelluruim) and cleaning the pieces after
polishing in an ultra-sonic using REY Super Sonic Soap(ammoniated).
Steve,
I haven’t tried this, but maybe someone on the forum could comment
on the possibility of using an ionic cleaner, rather than
ultra-sound. The ionic uses no harsh chemicals and is safe for
pearls, opals, etc. The one caveat is that it can cause problems
with silver if you leave it in the cleaner for more than about 10
seconds. Also, the silver pieces should be physically isolated from
each other–this is also true of silver chains touching back on
themselves.
Del of Designs of Eagle Creek in Beautiful South Texas
I haven't tried this, but maybe someone on the forum could
comment on the possibility of using an ionic cleaner, rather than
ultra-sound.
I have used an ionic cleaner to remove buffing compond from Jax
finished silver. It works, but it is a lot slower. It is the
ultra-sound action and not the chemicals that removes the Jax “tique”
from silver. I often soak a piece in the hot solution of the
ultra-sound without turning it on to loosen compound.
We use deox sterling alloys from United. Liver of Sulpher doesn’t do
much for it. Here is a silver patina tip: Jax gives a pretty good and
fairly durable gray-black. You can make it blacker and quickly fill in
any pale spots with Rapid Sellinium Toner, a photo chemical from
Kodak. On its own the photo black isn’t very durable and you can use
this to your advantage because you can easily highlight it with a
polishing cloth. I have been using the combination of Jax and
photoblack for 7 or 8 years. Don’t mix the solutions together! It
will work but it makes a rather vaporous reaction and then the
solution dies after a few minutes. Do it in two steps. Used
seperately the shelf life of both solutions is years. Used alone the
photo black looks great but it isn’t very durable.
Stephen Walker
am having problems cleaning away the polishong compound
without damaging the antique finish. I end up with the antiquing
removed or with yelowiish white blotches. I am using JAX Silver
Blackener (Hydrochlic Acid and Zelluruim) and cleaning the pieces
after polishing in an ultra-sonic using REY Super Sonic
Soap (ammoniated)
You could try using potasium sulphate solution as an antique effect.
I use a hot solution and find no problems with the ultrasonic
removing it afterwards, also cellulose thinners dissolve polish with
no need to ultra sonic. If you are just cleaning an antique piece
for a customer then a very soft brush used by hand with a little
chalk dust will brighten the metals high points without removing any
of the antique patina. I hope you find this helpful.
Thomas Wellburn
High Steve
I use just very fine polishing cloth like Micro -Mesh. goes up to
12000 grains and I use it on old victorian silver pieces and also
after using a silver “blackener”. it does not leave polishing
compond. should I have to use trhe motorI willbrush the dirt of with
a soft toothbrush and soap like in the good old days. Notmyown tooth
brush that is.
Ortwin