Hi there
I need help! I am having a hinged bangle manufactured and originally I had designed the piece to have a spring mechanism (operated by button on top of the bracelet.)
My manufacturer is saying they cannot do this and instead they have created CAD design with what they call a ‘duck tongue’ clasp. I’m not sure looking at the images that this would be good as it looks like a ‘push - pull’ type of clasp and I worry with these types of clasp that it is hard for wearer to open and can deteriorate faster over time.
Can anyone have a look at the images and tell me what they think?
I’ve taken screenshot from above and below
Advice much appreciated!!
I was wondering if the below would be a better clasp?
It’s very hard for me to determine what’s going on from the supplied photos, but if they show what I think I’m seeing, then it would work alright. This wouldn’t be a push - pull type clasp, but a spring clasp where the entire bracelet acts kinda of like a spring. But the tension(spring) on the bracelet and the hook have to be executed correctly. That is if I’m interpreting the photos correctly. If it is just a push and pull type of clasp then it wouldn’t be that secure.
In my designs, having the clasp blend into the piece was very important to me. I was very inspired by Pascal Lacroix.
https://www.pascallacroix.comhttps://www.pascallacroix.com
His clasps are so very well hidden into the design they disappear. The total bracelet is constructed to be part of the spring, and by applying pressure in the correct place the bracelet will open up. On his website he doesn’t show his clasps, so it’s almost impossible to see whats going on, but I’ll include a link to an album that has a couple of shots of one of my bracelets, that might give a better idea what I’m suggesting.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/2jMnkBTAc1u1TJzk8
Also, sometimes a common box clasp can be blended into the design so as not call attention to it, or it can become the focal point of of the piece.
Tjones
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We are in the process of making a hinged bracelet with a button / spring clasp . The spring clasp is designed to lock when you press the parts together and it unlocks when you press the button on top. Currently waiting to have these small springs made for us to fit the bracelet.
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Hi there, thank you so much for your advice and reply. I realise now, thanks to your description that it is indeed a fastening that required pressure on a certain point to open it. I have been sent a video from the factory, would you mind having a look if you don’t mind?
My fear is that with this type of clasp, the bracelet it can bend out of place (12 secs in video) and the person at the factory said ‘yes the sides can misalign, and you simply push them into place to lock the bracelet again’
Is this normal for this sort of fastening? it doesn’t seem very sophisticated if it is hard to make sure it works well.
I worry that the manipulation of the sides to make them align would cause the hinge to become looser if there is stress there, I also worry that the wearer would find it very fiddly to open and close this with one hand. Am I over worrying?!
I do however like the clasp blend into the piece too. Ps wonderful work!
@ Tjones79 Do you think this type of clasp is less favourable than the one in the video? I don’t know the name of it, but it locks over a bar so should be tight and less need to push the sides to line up?
The design of Pascal’s bracelet clasps, relies on the tension in the metal, like a spring, to open and close. In my opinion, the body of the bracelet needs to be ridged, where it will flex like a spring but not bend. Bending of the metal will fatigue the metal, creating a weakness that might end up cracking, or failing. The metal should have enough tension or hardness where it won’t bend, in my opinion.
I remembered that I have one of Pascal’s bracelet, the metal in this bracelet is 14k gold. It demonstrates what I’m talking about ~
If you are using sterling silver it might be much more difficult to develop enough tension for it to act like a spring. Shape and the design of the body of the bracelet can help create the strength and hardness, where it’s less likely to bend.
In this silver bracelet, the bracelet’s clasp is a little different, but it is similar, and it has some added safety features. When it’s opened, it is flexed like a spring, not bent.
As to the other clasp you’re asking about, it’s more of a personal preference. I find that it’s not quite as clean, and blends less with the design with the particular bracelet in the photo.
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Thank you so much @Tjones79. It is a problem that its Sterling silver in this case that I am using, and I guess the rigidity is the key issue with this clasp.
What do you think of this kind of clasp? I’ve adapted the other type to fit the design, do you think this could work better?
Sorry I meant, in terms of fastening and remaining an effective clasp would it work well in your opinion on a silver hinged bangle?
This bracelet clasp is almost like the one we are making. It snaps in place and locks like an alligator onto the otherside. The design we are working on is Approximately 4mm thick and 8.5 mm wide. Those are model dimensions.There will be some shrinkage from molding, casting and finishing. We made it thicker as it will be done in Sterling silver and requires thickness for strengnth. The hinge has to fit tightly so there is no side to side movement.
We might heat treat the metal to make it harder and springy if it needs it.
With clasps in general, most use a certain amount of tension to secure the opening and closing. The ones you are focused on, the tension is developed by the overall flexing of the piece, which is oneway to design it, but may or may not be the most secure depending on the material used. Another way, like the second design you asked about, is to use an isolated component that secures and locks the piece together. It relies on a moveable piece, or pieces. The one in your photo might be called a bayonet clasp, but other options are box clasps, barrel clasps, fold over clasps, etc. I think the one in the picture uses a very small steel spring under a lever to create the tension and hold the lever down securing the clasp, not relying on flexing of the overall bracelet. Box clasps use the tension in the tongue to secure and lock it. Fold over clasps use the shape and geometry to create tension to secure the clasp. Some jewelry will use a combination of types, like a box clasp, and a fold over safety clasp.
Of course, the art is to blend the type of clasp into the design so it’s visually pleasing.
I’d check out Metalcasters design for a spring clasp, maybe you’d be able to incorporate their design with yours.
Tjones
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Thank you for taking the time to give this advice. It’s really helpful
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