Casting and FTC

Was: Jewelry weekend workshops

When I worked in Albuquerque, we were shown the FTC regs. that
stated that in order to be called "Handmade", jewelry had to be
made without the use of electric power except for polishing, and
could not be cast. 

The FTC regs do not state this explicitly. What they say is

    (a) It is unfair or deceptive to represent, directly or by
implication, that any industry product is hand-made or hand-wrought
unless the entire shaping and forming of such product from raw
materials and its finishing and decoration were accomplished by
hand labor and manually-controlled methods which permit the maker
to control and vary the construction, shape, design, and finish of
each part of each individual product. Note to paragraph (a): As
used herein, "raw materials" include bulk sheet, strip, wire, and
similar items that have not been cut, shaped, or formed into
jewelry parts, semi-finished parts, or blanks. (b) It is unfair or
deceptive to represent, directly or by implication, that any
industry product is hand-forged, hand-engraved, hand-finished, or
hand-polished, or has been otherwise hand-processed, unless the
operation described was accomplished by hand labor and
manually-controlled methods which permit the maker to control and
vary the type, amount, and effect of such operation on each part of
each individual product. 

While some claim that this explicitly excludes casting, this is an
interpretation only (unless someone has a letter of clarification
from the FDA on the topic of casting which they would like to share.)

I use cuttlefish casting, a lot. I carve the impression in the
cuttlefish bone with picks, etc, and work the impression with a
brush in order to open up the pattern of the bone. IMO, this is
accomplished by hand labor and does permit me to control and vary the
construction, shape, design and finish of each part of each
individual product. I would have the same opinion about carving a wax
model and making a one-off casting of it. Now, at the point where a
rubber molding is used to duplicate the design so that the same piece
is cast over and over, the maker can no longer vary the construction,
design, and finish of each part of each individual product as
required by the regulation. This, IMO is the point where the finished
product can no longer be described as “handmade.”

This has been bandied about before on Orchid, and I hope the debate
does not get too tedious. All I ask is that we try to differentiate
between our interpretations and the “black letter” of the regulation.

Lee

Lee

Now, at the point where a rubber molding is used to duplicate the
design so that the same piece is cast over and over, the maker can
no longer vary the construction, design, and finish of each part of
each individual product as required by the regulation. This, IMO is
the point where the finished product can no longer be described as
"handmade." 

I agree this need not be bantied too much, however, I do not agree
with the above statement. I often make molds of favorite pieces but
then modify the waxes heavily so as to be nearly unrecognizable from
the original. Just a way of keeping the designs ‘fresh’. Otherwise, I
agree with all you say.

Cheers from Don in SOFL