FYI-I bought some cheap (from India) drawplates on eBay, and they are
a curse-they scratch and chip my silver wire, the hole increments are
not even. I do use lube (Burlube), anneal frequently, and sand or
file chips and scrapes off, but there seems to be no workaround for
decent end results. I now realize that I am wasting my time and
materials with them and am looking to buy better ones! My question
is: how little money can I get away with spending for a usable set
of plates? I need 12ga-about 26ga round, 10ga-22ga square and
8ga-14ga low dome half round.
My question is: how little money can I get away with spending for a
usable set of plates? I need 12ga-about 26ga round, 10ga-22ga
square and 8ga-14ga low dome half round.
Take the plates you already have and polish them on the inside.
Bronze rod, some diamond abrasive, and some elbow grease - and you
will have the set of plates to be proud off.
Please go to Guesswine for Carbide Holes in a multi-size holes
draw-plate. Use beeswax or 3-in-1 on the holes when drawing. You will
not have to polish your wire after the pull. I have used mine for the
last 1000 years and I am sure it will out-last me.
Draw-plates are one of those places where cheap means bad. If you
want good wire buy a good draw-plate. The German, French and Italian
ones tend to be the best
Take the plates you already have and polish them on the inside.
Bronze rod, some diamond abrasive, and some elbow grease - and you
will have the set of plates to be proud off.
I agree with Leonid. I used a very cheap set of indian made plates
for 20 years - but my tutor showed me how to turn them into a decent
set with diamond polish. I could draw wires down to.05" with
relative ease.
I bought a new set five years ago and donated my old ones to a
student when I left the UK to come to the USA.
Somewhere out there they’re probably still going strong.
Now here’s the clever bit. I asked the student to pass the plates on
when she got a new set and to use the same condition to the new
owner. Maybe they’ll still be around in 1000 years?
Otto Frei's selection of Italian made draw-plates is quite good
and I have never had a problem with the quality of the wire drawn
in them.
http://www.ottofrei.com/store/home.php?cat=949
The variety of draw plates from Otto Frei is SOOOO cool. Although I
have no need, I find myself coveting them. One question: How
difficult is it to draw wire through some of the plates with pointed
edges like the half-moon shape or star shape and not have those edges
break or deform?
Take the plates you already have and polish them on the inside.
Bronze rod, some diamond abrasive, and some elbow grease - and you
will have the set of plates to be proud off.
I am machining my own drawplates out of tool steel. Can you describe
the process of polishing the hole using the tools you suggest in
somewhat greater detail?
I am machining my own drawplates out of tool steel. Can you
describe the process of polishing the hole using the tools you
suggest in somewhat greater detail?
To polish a drawplate one can use many options. Bronze rod works
well, but can increase the size somewhat. Shape bronze rod to
correspond conical profile of drawplate holes and use some diamond
abrasive. One needs drill press for that. If several drawplates needs
to be polished, consider using clover compound. It is cheaper than
diamond and specially formulated for steel. The disadvantage is that
is sold in large cans. Diamond can be less expensive that buying
several cans of different grades.
Final polish is best achieved with hardwood dowels. Principle is the
same. Secure dowel in drill press, apply some polishing medium and
you ready to go. Dowel needs to shaped only approximately. It will
quickly assumes profile of a opening.
If you have access to a machine shop, conical reamers are great but
very expensive. This is a luxury option.
If holes are very rough, it may pay to make a conical punch, with
profile required. It needs to be made in high speed steel. It can be
accomplished with drill press, but lathe is the best. High speed is
required because punch should be able to retain hardness at elevated
temperatures. Harden and polish punch very well. Heat drawplate to
bright red. It is a good idea to cover drawplate with liquid soap
prior to heating. Punch should be mounted in drill press. Drill press
should not be on. In this case it is used as press only. Apply punch
to red hot opening and press firmly. If necessary re-heat and
repeat. Of course, if you have access to foot operated press, it
works even better. Some of the metal will be forced out, so drawplate
need to be made flat after finishing all holes. After hardening
polish with fine abrasive and wood dowel. Hardening is tricky due to
warping. Plunge with stabbing motions at 30 degrees angle.
Please understand that all these processes take a lot of time. I was
making drawplates back in Russia, but only because one cannot buy
ready made. Even if you value your time at 3 bucks an hour, it will
be cheaper to buy high quality draw plate already made.
The process only makes sense for profiles not commercially
available.
I realize your post is from 2010 but I couldn’t help but agree with you on the winch. I just never thought of a “boat” winch although I was looking at hand crank winches yesterday after watching a Durston demo and looking at the cost of their entry level draw bench (almost £700!!). My first thoughts were I could improvise and make something comparable, or at least something that works, by using a winch so I am really thrilled to find your post. I would not have thought of fencing pliers so thanks for that tidbit of info. As a hobbyist jeweler rather than a business I have to improvise a lot due to budgetary reasons so this sort of info is quite valuable. Thanks so much!
Talking about draw benches Mellissa Muir has done a nice little tutorial on making one very economically. Just google it I think it is on U tube.
Cheers Willie
Willie…There is a recent conversation in the archives where we discussed various ways that home made draw benches can be made. In addition to the good information that Julie has provided, you might do a search within the last year…Rob
Thanks Rob - you are always so helpful and supportive!
I was about to confess that I still haven’t worked out how to get into the archives and then you gave me the link.
I wish I lived next door to you - reckon you would be a fun neighbour!!
Ottofrei thtas where i got all the drawplates and yes they are not ship but will last for 300 years ,also do not buy carbide drawplates the inserts tend to break if you skip e to 4 numbers drawing wire like i do get the regular italian tool steel platez
do not buy draw thongs on ebay , you are going to waste your money ,they ate junk , not made of tool steel and they will strip after 3 times grabong the mayerial get the german made drawthongs ottofrei sells in their website .those are the best i have tested so far even better than the durston draw thongs . carbide insert drawplates are ok if you are not doing thick wire and go easy with them , the carbide inserts tend to break if you skip 3 to 4 holes drawing thick wire with the italian draw plates that ottofrei sales you eont have that problem , they are well made with tool steel and will last 300 years
In a pinch you can take an old pair of vise grips and add an eye bolt to do the same thing. I worry that there isn’t a lot of pinch area for the vise grip to hold on to the tapered piece of wire prior to drawing it. You also kind of squash it when you get a hold of the wire and the sharp edges can cut the wire before you draw. A good pair of draw tongs kind of ease on to the taper and the shape of the jaws are, by their design, tapered with less chance of a sharp edge cutting the wire. My tongs have both ends of the handle curved in the same shape and I use a heavy steel ring ( from Tandy Leather) to pull the tongs. The shape of the ring will slowly pull the handles together tightening the grip of the tongs on the wire. In the end we do what works or maybe first works and we don’t look any further. If the vise grips with an eye bolt works for you, look no further…Rob
