Burnt a hole in my silver

hello I really need help. Been at this for two days. So I’m soldering 4 bezel Sterling cups on the side of a bezel wall. The plate is cleaned with dawn and pickled. When it get on my bench it is shiny and clean. I am using self pickling flux and propane gas. I am new to the flux and was using paste flux before with no issues. I’ve heard mixed reviews about the rio grande selfpickle flux. So the process goes like this

-when I heat the piece the flux turns black or on other tempted it becomes like a patina flame coppery color. The solder is not flowing. Sometimes it does which is how I got the 4 cups on the left side on. But it’s not very good flowing and I’ve done better. This is also the largest piece ived worked on. I heard the gas and torch could be the issue on larger pieces. I am using a stand to heat the plate but it does not come to temperature at all I think the stand could be taking the heat away. Lastly I burnt a hole in my plate and I am wondering if you guys think the project is ruined or could be turned around. I am including a pic of the piece and the torch and gas and the stand and the flux. In one of the pics I held the piece against the light and u can see the stupid hole

I’ve seen this before. Two simple answers are, one, not enough heat. Two, moving the torch from underside to above too slowly. All the pieces need to be very close to the same temperatures. The base being larger will take a lot longer to heat. Holes can come from many things. In this case it looks like something with a lower melting point got over heated. It can be repaired or you can add more holes as part of the design. Accidents can be frustrating, or they can be creative moments.

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i would use paste flux on a piece this large. and yes- the stand is probably a heat sink. prop it up a little on a charcoal block, so you can bounce the flame up to the bottom.

Could I simply solder a bezel cup over the hole?

There is a lot going on there.
Getting that surface cleaned up to a workable condition is probably possible but it would be time consuming. I think I’d start over. Bezel cups can save time and give a certain look to your project. But cups are very thin walled and would melt with the wrong application of the heat. The thicker back wall of your project would take more time to heat up to a working temp than would a vessel cup. I personally have had good luck with tining thin walled structures before hand, placing them on location, and then heating from below until the solder flows.
I have had good success with the liquid fluxes as well. But lately, the last few years, I have been using Boric Acid and Alcohol flux or I have used Handy Flux. They form barriers coats to fire scale as well as aid in the flow of solder. How much to use can be a learning curve.
Much of what we do becomes a technique that works well for the individual and it may not be as successful for someone else. The equipment we have to use can have as much as anything to do with how our work develops. Smith Little Torches are great for some work in my shop but I don’t use them for every thing. I like to use EZ Torches for some jobs that require heating a larger area to a working temperature. The Little Torch concentrates heat in smaller areas. Using Little Torches for a project like yours is a skill I haven’t mastered. I had been building jewelry for 30+ years before I set a stone. I am still learning.

I am sure I mentioned things you all ready know and probably do very well. I’d be interested in knowing what torches and solders you are using.

Good luck with this project.

Don Meixner

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