Based on your description, I suggest looking at how tightly you are
screwing down the plate on the coil holder. If you over tighten the
cap screws, the plate might bow slightly. A bowed plate allows the
coil to move around and a moving coil is the enemy of thin blades and
clean cuts. Over the years, I’ve lost both coils and blades to this
problem when I’ve stopped paying attention. This problem also exists
on the Koil Kutter and in fact you have to be even more careful
because the top plate on the KK is aluminum and more easily bowed.
As far as I can tell, the proper amount to tighten the screws is
until the plate just comes down on top of the coil and then the
tiniest bit more…maybe an eighth of a turn.
If bowing isn’t the problem, the only other things I can think of
-Make sure you let the blade spin up to max. speed before starting
to cut, and then use a slow feed into the coil. If you really jam the
blade into the coil at the start, it can catch, bend, and chip…or
-For small coils (say 2.5mm ID or less), be sure to flip over the
top plate on the coil holder. This reduces the depth of cut and seems
to work better. It also prevents you from nicking the bottom of the
-If you are having to use a lot of forward force to get the blade to
cut, the blade is dull and should be replaced. Expensive as they
are, I tend to err on the side of throwing them away because a dull
blade is dangerous and makes an ugly burr on the rings. You can tell
if the blade is dull by checking the cuts with a loupe. Rings cut
with a sharp blade will have a clean, perfectly square cut face with
Hopefully Ray Grossman is reading Orchid today and can chime in on
this if I’ve got any of this wrong.
Best of luck with your jump rings!
Renaissance Gecko Designs