Hi All,
Like the title says, I’m new to this. I’m a little overwhelmed by the hundreds of course and wanted to hear suggestions for what courses, projects, and tools I should get and especially - what order to do/buy them in. I guess I’m looking for a suggested curriculum.
Any suggestions from seasoned vets is appreciated.
Stu
Although I have a complete traditional jeweler’s bench, I would consider myself more of a jewelry methods historian…I’ve read a lot about traditional methods and know a lot about how things are fabricated, even if I don’t make much. I’m going to give you a little bit of a geezer answer here. Get a couple of jewelry making texts from the library or from Open Library (archives) or buy a few old books. Ones that talk about forging, sawing, filing, soldering and finishing as well as jewelry design. A very old book which has a list of basic tools in it is Rose and Cirino’s Jewelry Design and Creation. This book was written from the class notes of a Vocational High School teacher of the first half of the 20th century. Most traditional techniques have not changed much since then. Other books from the 70’s are by Sharr Choate and Robt. Von Neumann. If you read or skim through books like these, you get an idea of how jewelry is constructed via fabrication from sheet and wire and ingots or via casting. You see what the typical tools are. Then I would visit the Rio Grande website and some other tool stores and look at what’s on offer, which will include the things in the books and also newer items like pulse arc welders, micromotors, power gravers, etc., which you may or may not want to (eventually) have.
You could easily begin making jewelry with a couple of large files, a set of needle files, a clamp on bench pin, some sandpaper, a butane torch and charcoal block, a few jewelry pliers, a ring mandrel, a ball peen hammer, a rawhide mallet, a ring clamp and some polishing sticks. I’ve probably forgotten a few things, but they are in Rose and Cirino’s tool kit and you’d also find them in some on line videos where people discuss making elementary rings and pendants. Next you’d want a flexshaft and/or micromotor, maybe a buffer, maybe an upgraded torch. some burs and drill bits and a few gravers. Of course solder and pickle, maybe a pickle pot. Making jewelry could be a lot like cooking. You can follow a recipe and do it. If you read enough recipes for how to make stews and soups, you soon begin to grasp the general elements of all of them. The same is true for jewelry. Rings made from wire or sheet and wire are most all similar. Ditto pendants, chains and bracelets. You can start to figure out what you will need to have and what you would like to have, but maybe don’t really need. You can look at various ways to cast and decide whether you want to do this and how much you want to spend on it. If you love software, maybe you will look into designing on the computer. Just begin by trying to get an overview of how jewelry is created and don’t get too focused on lots and lots of expensive tools. Oh, yes, and use the archives here to research methods and tools. They are invaluable and many of us will clue you in to inexpensive work-arounds and tool reviews. Welcome to Orchid and to jewelry making! -royjohn
My husband Tim Green and I both served formal apprenticeships. It took 5 years to learn the basics. Sadly there are no longer Jewelry Unions. If you can, approach professional trade shop jewelers and see if they are willing to take you on and teach you. Sort of an unofficial apprenticeship. The first year sucks, but it’s worth the effort. Also my advice is to avoid You Tube videos. Yes there is some good stuff, but the vast majority of the videos are truly bad advice.
Hi Stu,
Jewelry making is vast, and that can feel overwhelming at the beginning. My own approach was to focus on a very small area of jewelry making: ancient goldsmithing techniques. Rather than trying to learn everything, I chose to immerse myself deeply in what genuinely fascinated me. That depth shaped everything that followed.
I now teach workshops and accept commissions. Mass production was never appealing to me; I was more interested in understanding material, process, and tradition at a high level.
My suggestion would be to start by asking yourself what truly draws you in, and then seek instruction in that specific direction. Depth creates clarity.
For a strong technical foundation across many jewelry disciplines, the Fashion Institute of Technology has an excellent studio jewelry program.
I began there as a non-credit student, and it was very affordable at the time. I later studied at the Jewelry Arts Institute (now Jewelry Arts Inc.), both in New York City.
https://www.jewelryarts.com
Along the way, I earned my GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG) certification and observed that GIA also offers an immersive jewelry program.
https://www.gia.edu
Working in 22-karat gold is a very different experience than working in other alloys. It’s a responsive, forgiving material and actually requires surprisingly few tools to begin, which can simplify the learning process early on.
I’ve also heard very good things about the jewelry program at the 92nd Street Y in New York City.
https://www.92ny.org/culture-arts/school-of-the-arts/art-center/jewelry-center
A personal aspiration of mine has always been to study with master goldsmith Kent Raible. His work and teaching are exceptional, and time in his studio would be invaluable.
If you ever find yourself wanting to step away from distraction and really immerse yourself, I do offer small, intensive winter workshops in January and February focused on ancient jewelry techniques in East Hampton, NY. They’re designed for deep focus rather than volume.
The Alan Revere Academy is another well-respected educational path worth exploring.
For easy reference, here are the resources mentioned above:
• Fashion Institute of Technology (Jewelry Design)
• Jewelry Arts Inc.
• GIA
• 92nd Street Y Jewelry Program
https://www.92ny.org/culture-arts/school-of-the-arts/art-center/jewelry-center
• Kent Raible
• Hampton Gem
• Alan Revere Academy
Wishing you a rewarding journey. I started 25 years ago and remain just as passionate about the craft today. That, to me, is a good sign you’re on the right path.
Kind regards,
Lois