Hi everybody. Regarding Setting of Gemstones (124 pages) by
Walter Zeiss, I have some to share. I was a student
of his in Germany during the early 70’ s for two years. He taught
setting and gemology at the school I attended, the Fachhochschule
fFCr Gestaltung. I learned a lot from him, and I even have a n
early copy of the book in German. I also have a copy in English.
The man kne w so much but unfortunately the book is pretty
primitive by today’s standards. There are some real good tips,
but it is not the book we all seek.
Frei-Borel lists it in their catalog: #162.610 for $36.50:
www.paleoart.com/frei/fbindex.htm or 800-900-3734 .
Rio also has some of these setting books: www.riogrande.com or
Gesswein is another source: www.gesswein.com or 800-243-4466.
Depending on what aspect of setting one is researching, there
are a few choices: Robert Wooding has a series of very
descriptive books: Channel Setting Diamonds, Diamond Setting and
Bead Setting Diamonds which are all readily available through
Then there is The Technology of Setting by Grether. It is very
small (88 pages) and at $49.95, it seems expensive. Translated
from French (the language of setting), this Swiss book is a lot
like Zeiss’s in format and content.
Ray Schow of Portland, Oregon authored a book that his son
produced, specializing in the basics of plate setting (bead
Hardy’s classic book, Jewelry Repair, has a large section of
about 60 pages on setting.
Swest put out a very good pamphlet, Diamond Setting, several
years ago. It has the best illustrations, but not much depth.
Then there are the tapes: Diamond Setting- Pave, Diamond Setting
for Beginners, Diamond Setting-Baguette Diamonds, Diamond
Setting- Fancy Cut Diamonds, Diamond Setting-Channel Set
Diamonds, all by Wooding.
GRS has another tape, GRS Diamond Setting Bead and Bright Cut.
All of these are available from the major suppliers. Until the
definitive book is written to meet today’s expectations, we are
going to have to use what is out there.
Hope this helps. Good luck.
Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts