Bezel Setting Soft Stones

I generally set cabs with thick walls and use a hammer and a polished
setting punch. I hammer the walls of the bezel 80% of the way down to the
stone. Then like Gerry Lewy, I use a highly polished and very sharp graver
to make a nice little bright cut on the inside edge where the bezel will
touch the stone. I always use a little oil or spit on the graver to help it
slide along and reduce the chances of scratching the stone. Once I’ve done
that then I hammer the metal the rest of the way down. If I have to use a
pumice wheel or fine file to remove any bumps or flaws I then use the
thumbnail of my hand holding the piece to protect the stone .I place the
top edge of my thumb nail right along where the bezel meets the stone. I
consider my thumb nails as my best tools.
If there are any scuffs or slight scratches on a soft stone they are easy
to remove with Zam, Crystal polish or tin oxide or chrome oxide.
Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
-Jo Haemer
www.timothywgreen.com

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