Hi Rob,
Yes, that piece in the middle is the really deep blue stuff without any white to speak of.
It could be that the white devaluing it is because it makes it appear just like sodalite,
which is a much more common, cheaper stone. That said, one of the first rings I made
was set with a sodalite. It looks nice and has a lot of value for me. The nice thing about
working in stones is that it is going to take someone’s fancy. I’ve done some pottery,
and with each kiln load you get better and after a while the stuff you made last season
just looks terrible to you, but if you offer it to people, there is always someone who thinks
it is great.
Best Regards,
Royjohn
While sold as Lapis, it could be Sodalite, although it has what appear to be pyrite flecks. It is a lot denser than the Lapis that I have been cutting and polishes nicely. Some day I will get someone who knows what they are looking at to go through the rough that I have and tell me what it is. Thanks…Rob
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You can test a pumice wheel on the back of one of your stones to see if it will damage the finish.
I have and it does damage the stone, but my wheels are fairly aggressive silicon carbide wheels. If anyone can suggest a less aggressive wheel that will still clean up small dings and dents from the pusher while not damaging soft stones, I would appreciate it. Thanks…Rob
You need to get some blue pumice wheels. The kind made with actual pumice, not SiC.
I generally set cabs with thick walls and use a hammer and a polished
setting punch. I hammer the walls of the bezel 80% of the way down to the
stone. Then like Gerry Lewy, I use a highly polished and very sharp graver
to make a nice little bright cut on the inside edge where the bezel will
touch the stone. I always use a little oil or spit on the graver to help it
slide along and reduce the chances of scratching the stone. Once I’ve done
that then I hammer the metal the rest of the way down. If I have to use a
pumice wheel or fine file to remove any bumps or flaws I then use the
thumbnail of my hand holding the piece to protect the stone .I place the
top edge of my thumb nail right along where the bezel meets the stone. I
consider my thumb nails as my best tools.
If there are any scuffs or slight scratches on a soft stone they are easy
to remove with Zam, Crystal polish or tin oxide or chrome oxide.
Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
-Jo Haemer
www.timothywgreen.com
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Try # 180 grit, this density is quite harmless on softer stones.
Gerry! On my Teaching iPhone!
Rob!
As I mentioned on another posting I use ONLY
#180 grit. I find it so safe and easy to use. I have the Tapered and the Flat-face configuration!
It works easy, just like “butter on bread”!!..
Gerry! On my Teaching iPhone!
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Thanks to everyone who has contributed to answering this post. About a year ago I decided to stop using thin roll over bezels and learn to make and use heavy walled bezels. It has been an interesting year. I have learned a lot, thanks in part to those of you who answered my earlier general questions and now, more recently, my more specific questions about soft stones. Since I am retired, I have also had the time to research the archives and then just experiment in my shop trying to apply that which I have learned from all of you and my research. In between, I have made a lot of jewelry. I will keep refining my stone setting process, try to learn how to make and use gravers, at least to bright cut and then refine my stone cutting process so that it is compatible with how I set them. Thanks again and enjoy the season…Rob
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Rob
Thanks for your great posting. That’s just why we’re here on Ganoksin. Enjoy your “learning-curve”. Retirement is for the older folks, work and stay young!..
Gerry! On my Teaching iPhone!
Robert Meitner, what gauge bezel do you
use for thick wall bezels?
I use at least 1.75 <-> 2.00 mm’s but in gauge…?? Any help?
*Gerry Lewy *
Toronto.
- (905) 886-5961 *
It depends on the size of the stone and style of the piece, but 1 - 1.5 mm to start…Rob
Following are pictures of my setup to set soft stones in heavy walled bezels. This bezel is 1.5 mm thick and the stone is Sodalite (I think). The punches are made from brass rod and the ends are polished. The gray material is Therma-Set plastic…Rob
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Beautiful!
These are polishing wheels that do not damage stones as an alternative. Question is whether you can get them in US. I buy them from www.bijoumoderne.com in Holland. They do ship to US, but you have to inform at their customerservice wether it is worth your while. Often the shipping cost are high. Brandname is Eveflex.
They have flat round with straight edge, birdtongshape (ufo) and straight cilinder, don’t know what you call them in English.
0813876 EVEFLEX SCHIJFJE 22X3 MM GROEN/SF
08138761 EVEFLEX SCHIJFJE 22X1 MM GROEN/SF
08138763 EVEFLEX VOGELTONG 22X4 MM GROEN (birdtong shape works very good)
08138764 EVEFLEX CYL.10X12 MM M/STIFT GROEN
08138765 EVEFLEX CYL.14X12 MM M/STIFT GROEN
Eve wheels are available from US sources. They may be the same or similar to those that you have listed in your post. Thanks…Rob
While planning (to hammer down a thick walled bezel), how do you determine the extra smidgen of bezel height, in order to compensate for the height that gets hammered down? Is there a formula? It seems kind-of like planning the length to cut a rivet.
Others may, and maybe I should too, but I don’t worry about it. I worry more about it being high enough so that it stands a bit above the bracelet base once I am done. I do this by eye. I will measure how much is lost in height the next time and post the results. Good question, Thanks!..Rob
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