Bezel forming punch sets

Jewelry Discussion
1

I have purchased a square bezel forming punch set but I can not seem
to form the bezel without splitting the the metal even though I have
anealed it. I am trying to form a bezel for a 12mm square stone. I
really would appreciate some feed back.

2

I did a search and found this.
http://www.ganoksin.com/gnkurl/ep7zcl [PDF file]

3

There was a thread earlier this year on bezel blocks. I think it was
Peter Rowe who suggested using a vice or press to force the bezel
into the block, a technique that I readily adopted. It compresses
and thickens the base of the bezel. This process is done without the
punch. Then you anneal the bezel and use the punch to finish shaping
the bezel. Anneal often. I have over a dozen bezel blocks, I’ve made
hundreds of bezels with them, this was an eye opening technique.

A very grateful Rick Hamilton, who saved time and frustration making
3 cushion cut bezels in 18k after reading this helpful bit of advice
on Orchid.

4 
I have purchased a square bezel forming punch set but I can not
seem to form the bezel without splitting the the metal even though
I have anealed it. I am trying to form a bezel for a 12mm square
stone. I really would appreciate some feed back.

Bezel sets (block and punch) are used to true up shapes, not to
fabricate them. In your situation there are 3 ways to go (probably
more, but I can only think of three right now).

  1. The least expensive but technically demanding is to form square
    setting by hand, and use block to correct shape irregularities.
    Soldering joints must be placed in the middle of sides and not in the
    corners.

  2. Form round bezel first using pliers and mandrels and use the
    square bezel block to obtain final shape. Size of round bezel must be
    calculated precisely. Perimeter of square and circumference of round
    bezel must be equal. I am usually asked at this point,- why I
    recommend round versus square with rounded corners. While it is
    possible to form rounded corner square truncated cone by hand, (sorry
    for mathematical nomenclature), preparing such a template is not
    trivial. Starting with round is easier and results are good enough.
    That is not to deny that template calculations will be the only way
    to go on some occasions.

  3. Purchase round bezel block and punch and proceed like in method

  4. This method requires additional investment, but it is the most
    economical from material waste point of view.

If you do not have experience in forming shapes using pliers and
mandrels, and/or not very sure how to correctly use bezel blocks, I
recommend my DVD Coronet Cluster.

You may be able to glimpse what you need from introductory clip, or
you may want to purchase the dvd.

Leonid Surpin

5

How do you do it in the press?

6 
How do you do it in the press?

No, I do not use press. I do not even have one in my shop. In my
previous post there are links, which are helpful in order to
understand methodology.

Leonid Surpin