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Bezel blocks; was: RE: Oval tube setting


#1

Hi Rick,

Thanks for the feedback! I’ve seen and wondered about these
bezel blocks. I assume that’s the same thing as a bezel punch?
Since the bezel comes out with a taper, how does one set the
stone? When I make bezels by hand (almost always), the walls are
vertical, and the bezel is just slightly larger than the stone.
Slip the stone in, and bend the bezel and the stone is set.

If the bezel walls are tapered inward (at the top?), it would
seem that one would need a bezel with a significantly wider base
to allow the stone to pass through. Do you use these bezels with
cabs and/or faceted stones? Am I missing something here? Does
the smaller diameter go down, and you use them only for faceted
stones?

Ignorant minds want to know! :slight_smile:

Dave Sebaste

From: rick hamilton[SMTP:dunstan@vineyard.net]
Sent: Saturday, December 28, 1996 1:51 AM
Subject: Re: Oval tube setting


#2
I got my new trillion block and punch today and tested it on a
small tube of 18k palladium white gold :). 	Usually the narrow
end is soldered into the shank or whatever, and the stone is
set by cutting a seat (practice...) for the stone in the wider
end.I also file away excess thicness from the outside of the
bezel. While I do use tapered bezels for cabs, I do set more
faceted stones. The tubular shape and open bottom allow for
cleaning, so they are very useful for transparent or
translucent stones. Also for making prong settings by cutting
away sections.
The taper especially allows several settings to be soldered

together in an arc to curve around a finger. I usually make the
bezel from 18 or 20 guage sheet (in gold alloys) thicker if I am
making a master model that will be cast in sterling.

I also use a special tool for setting bezels- a pusher with a

short section of 3/16 tool steel forged into a flattened
rectangular, slightly curved face (about 1/8x3/8") The handle is
a mushroom graver handle- overall the whole thing is less than 2
1/2 inches long. I hold the jewelry piece in a ring clamp up
against my benchpin. If the metal gets really difficult (work
hardened) I resort to chasing tools… and a chasing hammer,
clamping it in a die ball.