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Bench dimensions


#1

Have the need to build a proper work bench, I do silver smithing and
am starting to do wax carving.

does anyone have suggested dimensions for a jewelers bench, hieght
from floor to top, how deep should it be made, how far the catch
tray should be below the bottop of the bench top, the radius of the
cut out, and the location and height of the arm rests.

Thanks in advance for your advice and assistance.

O M


#2

You might enjoy the new jeweler’s bench book, which covers most of
this kind of thing. It is pretty much individual, based on you, your
body size and work patterns and how you use the bench.

See
http://www.ganoksin.com/item--Orchid-in-Print-Vol-2--benchbook

best
Charles


#3
does anyone have suggested dimensions for a jewelers bench, hieght
from floor to top, how deep should it be made, how far the catch 

You can find complete plans in the book, The Complete Metalsmith, by
Tim McCreight.

Pat Pruitt has posted detailed instructions on builiding one in wood
and steel:

http://www.patpruitt.com/blog/?page_id=6

and here is a free article by Tim McC right here on ganoksin:

Elaine
http://www.CreativeTextureTools.com


#4

Terry

A lot of the dimensions are subject to your own physical needs
depending on your height and how you work. In general jewelers
benches are about 36-38 inches high, and the filings tray needs to
be low enough so that a saw frame handle doesn’t hit it on the
downstroke. Cut outs are a personal preference as well. The width
and depth of the top, too. 48x24 is generous, 36x20 is adequate.

The best approach is to sit at any commercial benches that are
available, and you can determine which features you like. If you are
right handed, drawers on the right might interfere with the flex
shaft. If you use a micromotor, this wouldn’t be an issue.

Rick Hamilton


#5

Tim McCreight s complete Metalsmith" has some plans w/layout
dimensions for a workable first bench. When adjusting to your height
if you stand with your hands down at your sides and outstretched,
that is the height to start with.

Look through the bench exchange to get some ideas on the frills so to
speak as each bench is rather unique in some way. as for the sweeps
tray remeber if you use any clamp on bench pins, vises, etc. that any
rails you add to the underside of the benchtop will be impeded by
anything you clamp or bolt to it…so add three inches minimum to the
distance from the top of your bench to the distance you set your
sweeps tray. I personally like an archaic style leather apron that is
attached to the bench and my neck when I pierce or saw materials.

The sweeps tray in my bench is more a shelf at this point as the
apron is easier to reclaim dust from, and larger trimmings and sweeps
are brushed up easy enough…It’s all a matter of taste and design
necessities. I had a professional woodworker build my main bench with
a mounting plate off center for the GRS benchmate’s mounting plate so
that it is not in the way of other pins, mandrel holders, etc…

just inventory your equipment that you use most - be it a certain
style bench pin and it’s mounting apparatus, a GRS benchmate system,
your flexshaft and stand, micromotor, microscopes, etc, then work
from there in your design - Don’t rush into anything without
considering all the elements you need at hand, what can be put on a
different surface or in a different area( as space dictates, you may
have seperate soldering pickling areas, polishing areas,
casting&melting areas, a stump for your anvil, rolling mill and
hydraulic press on movable stands to which the tools are bolted,
etc…).

Everyone’s space and needs are different. Lighting, electrical
outlets, water source, tank area, compressor and air tools, kilns,
heating and cooling, air circulation, and storage all affect how you
set up your bench or larger studio area. So me telling you to make
the sweeps tray 18 inches below the top of your bench is only
relevant to my bench, which has a traditional arced top with some
shelves at head height.

Most benches are more like table tops flat across the top so it is
relative to what your needs are, tools and equipment you use most and
want at hand, and the amount of space you have to dedicate to jewelry
making as to what you need in a bench. I know a very experienced
goldsmith that prefers an office table to his bench ; he has three
benches in his studio and each is dedicated to different
operations…so back to Complete metalsmith, looking through
catalogues and styles to arrive at what serves you the best…


#6

Hi Terry -

There are some great articles (frankenbench, Pat’s welded bench that
will survive the apocalypse, and 2 different bench plans by Charles
Lewton Brain) on the orchid/ganoksin site. I had a friend help me
build Charles’ beginner’s bench and I have been using it for the
past 8 months. It’s nothing fancy but it works. I recommend you make
the adjustments that are comfortable to you. The best part of
building your own bench is being able to tailor it the way you like.
I have never worked at a bench with the half moon cut out of it so I
didn’t plan that into mine. In the future I might. Good luck and post
some photos of the process, I’d love to see how it goes. Good luck
and happy building

Rachel


#7

Tim McCreight gives all the info on building a bench in the first
ed.

of “Complete Metalsmith”. I assume it’s in the others too–but I
never had a need after the bench was built. It’s a great bench–only
one I’ve ever used. If you want to add “stuff”–Charles Lewton
Brain’s new book is the ultimate resource.

The trickiest part for me was finding the right chair with the
largest range of height adjustments–that didn’t cost a million
bucks.

Hope this helps.
Carolyn


#8

Hi all!

Charles Lewton-Brain has quite an interesting book. "The Jeweler’s
Bench Book"
http://www.ganoksin.com/item--Orchid-in-Print-Vol-2--benchbook

For actual bench of building one for your self turn to
pages 16-29…Then again, turn to pages 39 and 89 it is there you
will find my bench and how the setting tools are placed for easy
access…Everything in its place!

Gerry.