[Beginners' Corner] Making wire stronger

Jewelry Discussion
1

Hello all,

I’ve seen some of your posts in the archives and I realize I’m in
the middle of a community of people with talents far greater than
mine. But, I hope you’ll have some ideas that I can use in my own
work, however humble it is. I’ve only taken up wire wrapping, or
jewelery making from wire. I have one piece under my belt, and after
encouragement from fellow ebayers, I put it up for auction. Time will
tell if it is liked by anyone. It is very simple.

This email contains a range of questions, please excuse the length.

For my first piece, a bracelet, I used 24g full hard sterling silver
round wire. I have been told by other ebay wire wrappers that 24g
full hard is not strong enough for my intended use. Please see
attached photos by going here:

http://www.poochistailor.com/auctionbracelet.html

I would like to work in Argentium Sterling Silver. I need help
understanding what to buy though. I was told that 20-22gage would be
strong enough in full hard. I can’t find argentium for sale in full
hard.

I thought I read that Argentium could be hardened by the artist -
after the piece is complete - but I don’t think that option is
available to me, since my pieces will contain semi-precious gems,
possibly lampwork beads, and sometimes czech glass etc. I don’t have
access to a kiln. I don’t have the ability at this time (nor can I do
it where I live now) for a torch of any kind.

Another wire wrapper from eBay said I should always wrap each link
(think hangman’s noose style wrap) and hide the tail ends of wire,
and insure better strength. I did not do that for this piece, should
I have? Do I need to do so always? Have I committed a major mistake?

Your answer and thoughts would be so appreciated! I’m trying very
hard to learn. I really enjoy this work, and have already come to
feel like pliers are extensions of me!

By the way - I emailed a company called G&S that was recommended
here, inquiring over their wire. Am still waiting for a reply from
them. I can’t find their location displayed on their web site. Where
are they located?

Thank you in advance. I look forward to your advice.

Best,
Lynn

2

Hi, Lynn,

Your bracelet looks very pretty, and it is well-photographed. But
there is a reason people usually don’t try to sell their very first
piece, aside from wanting to keep it as a memento.

I’m not sure I’m seeing what is there, as the image is small, but it
looks as though the links are just bent into loops and left like
that. If that is so, the bracelet will fall apart as soon as it is
worn. The wire mist be closed by wrapping or soldering to be sturdy
enough to sell.

Please make sure your work is up to a professional standaed before
trying to put it on the market, for the sake of your own reputation,
and that of all jewelry craftspeople.

Good luck,
Noel

3

Please make sure your work is up to a professional standaed before
trying to put it on the market, for the sake of your own reputation,
and that of all jewelry craftspeople

Point taken, Noel. I’ve ended the auction early. It’s odd though, I
wore it for a couple days and it seems rather resilient. The full
hard wire seems springy rather than bendy when pulled. But, if you
say it will fall apart, I would feel devastated if it happened to
someone. I’ll take it apart and rebuild.

Regards,
Lynn

4

Hello Lynn,

I’ve been working with wire for a couple of years now and have
learned a few of the basics. Every wire artist has their own
preferences as to gauge and shape. Accordingly, the following are my
opinions - smile -

Forget using full hard wire. Half hard and dead soft are more than
adequate for just about anything you can do. The only thing I use
full hard wire for is creating pins for broaches. If you do try using
full hard wire, it will be very difficult to use. As wire is worked,
it becomes “work hardened” anyway. The harder the wire is, the more
pronounced is its tendency to “kink” instead of bend. If you want
rigid right angles, the harder wire is better. If however, you want
graceful swoops and loops, dead soft is your answer. Another thing to
remember is Canadians use the term “hard” for what we Americans call
“half hard”. Could be a bit confusing if you’re not aware.

I would like to work in Argentium Sterling Silver. I need help
understanding what to buy though. I was told that 20-22gage would
be strong enough in full hard. I can't find argentium for sale in
full hard."

As far as hardening Argentium, what’s actually happening is that the
Argentium portion of the wire needs to be encouraged to rise to the
surface. This is done by gentle heating - a low temp kitchen oven is
more than adequate. This is done before the wire is ever cut and
used. No need to fear for stone that you may use with it. It also
tumbles well.

I thought I read that Argentium could be hardened by the artist -
after the piece is complete - but I don't think that option is
available to me, since my pieces will contain semi-precious gems,
possibly lampwork beads, and sometimes czech glass etc. I don't
have access to a kiln. I don't have the ability at this time (nor
can I do it where I live now) for a torch of any kind."

Your design is an attractive one. Unfortunately, with the light
gauge wire that you used, it more than likely will distort over a
relatively short period of time. By using wrapped loops, your links
will be secure. 24 gauge wire is generally used when multiple strands
of wire are held together and wrapped around a cabochon. Even then,
24 is just extremely fine and light. Are you sure the wire is
actually 24 ga?

Depending on the piece I’m creating, and the effect I’m going after,
I generally use between 21 and 16 ga wire. I like the square wire for
wrapping cabochons, and round wire for linking beads. The heavier
gauges are great for making jump rings (for chain maille) and
bracelet frames. The biggest thing is to experiment and find what
works for YOU.

You may want to see if there are any classes on wire working near
you. Check out local bead stores or perhaps there may be an arts &
craft guild in your area. One or two classes can open a world full of
doors for you and prevent hours of spinning your wheels and getting
nowhere.

Hope this helps sort out a bit of the mysteries - :slight_smile:

Betty
www.thecyrusco.com

5

Hello Lynn,

Your bracelet linkage is pretty, but 24 ga wire is not going to
maintain the lovely curves and the links will pull apart. The
"hangman’s noose" will not separate, but the loops are likely to
lengthen if pulled very much. I don’t think Argentium 24 gauge is the
answer either.

Your design will be more durable with heavier wire. You simply need
to use a heavier gauge wire - at least 20 ga. The problem I find with
this dimension is that many beads holes are too small and don’t allow
the wire to go all the way through. (Much gnashing of teeth, here.) I
look carefully at bead holes and buy the strands strung on heavier
line, but that’s not necessarily a guarantee.

Good luck on your efforts.
Judy

6

Hi Lynn,

Pretty bracelet, but yes, 24g is too thin for durable wear.
Especially those loosely coiled sections will stretch apart. I only
use 24g when each bead can be held in place by coiling around the
wire at each end (the hangman’s noose thing you mentioned) and almost
never for a bracelet, because they get much harder wear than
necklaces. For coils such as you made, 20g hard would be minimal, 22
for the sections of beads.

Your question: “Another wire wrapper from eBay said I should always
wrap each link (think hangman’s noose style wrap) and hide the tail
ends of wire, and insure better strength. I did not do that for this
piece, should I have? Do I need to do so always? Have I committed a
major mistake?”

answer-Yes

Hope that helps, Good luck,
Bev Ludlow
www.wirewrapjeweler.com

7 
As far as hardening Argentium, what's actually happening is that
the Argentium portion of the wire needs to be encouraged to rise to
the surface. This is done by gentle heating - a low temp kitchen
oven is more than adequate. This is done before the wire is ever
cut and used. No need to fear for stone that you may L> use with it.
It also tumbles well.

At the risk of revealing just how far behind I am in my Orchid
reading I’d like to comment a little on the above.

I freely admit that wire-wrapping is not my thing so there may be
subtleties in this conversation that I’m missing but…

What makes Argentium harder when you bake it is that you’re
rearranging the internal crystal structure of the germanium in the
alloy. In my experience a gentle bake is usually not sufficient to
accomplish this.

For instance I see a noticeable difference in hardness between a
piece of Argentium that has been baked at 500 F (260 C) for 40
minutes VS a piece that is baked at 250 F (120 C) for 120 mins, for
example.

I respectfully submit that the author of the above may be confusing
the heat treatment of Argentium for tarnish resistance reasons VS
precipitation hardening reasons. The two process work rather
differently:

  • for tarnish resistance any heating is good but (in my experience)
    more is better. What you are doing is encouraging the germanium in
    the alloy to migrate to the surface whereupon if spontaneously forms
    germanium oxide and that oxide gives you the alloy’s tarnish
    resistant properties. Any heat, even room temperature, will do that
    assuming you’re willing to wait long enough.

  • for precipitation hardening purposes the “official” temperature of
    500 F produces far better results than say 250 F, for example. As
    mentioned above what you’re doing here is heating the alloy so that
    the crystal structure of the germanium within the silver changes.
    This procedure is typically far more temperature specific, as is the
    case with precip hardening in other alloys.

There’s more on both these subjects on my “Argentium” blog if you’re
so inclined.

Cheers,
Trevor F.
in The City of Light
Visit TouchMetal.com at http://www.touchmetal.com