tap magic is the foulest smelling stuff i’ve ever used, it is used
for lubrication of tapping difficult holes usually in steel,
stands to reason that it would be good on copper, cause copper is
looked at as sticky, in the machine trade, compared to steel, i
would not use it for anything but tough tap jobs, don’t get it on
your skin, and don’t heat it alot without a respirator, don’t smell
it, get it at any machinist supplier, dave
Just my 2 cents on sawblades and lubricants:
I’ve used both the solid and liquid Burr-Life, Natural Beeswax and
3-in-1 Oil in the past. None of these has EVER dulled a blade, and I
always apply to either the teeth, or the material I’m cutting, not
the back of the blade.
Is it possible that the beeswax in question had particulate of some
kind in it? Not all beeswax is created equal…
LJ
I must be in the minority, I typically don’t put anything on the
blade. The main reason I do it this way is that the lube leaves a
detail obscuring mess on the work. Burlife even leaves a residue
which traps shavings. If I’m taking the time to make a careful
layout I don’t really want to go back in with a file to clean up
mistakes in following the line because I couldn’t SEE the line, even
worse if I stray to the wrong side of the line. Do I break the
occasional blade? Yeah but what’s a blade, 20 cents and 14 seconds to
change. So I just saw dry and blow the chips away. Its easier to work
precisely the first time than to spend a lot of effort correcting
errors. My own opinion is that if the blade is jamming too frequently
its because the saw is going too fast or the motion is unstable.
You’re not cutting a line, you’re cutting a three dimensional channel
thru the metal. Tip that saw a couple of degrees off the vertical
centerline of the channel and it jams. Why does it jam? Because now
the first tooth on the top surface is digging in all by its lonesome.
Like I said, just my opinion.
I work in precious metals so maybe copper/brass are different?
I will practice, as I always do with a new design, on Play-Doh first to get the technique just right before using the silver clay.
May I suggest polymer clay as a better practice material? Play-doh is
pretty soft. You may like to use silver colored polymer clay.
Of course, sometimes when I have broken all of my finest sawblades
and need to cut thin gauge sheet, I will deliberately clog the teeth
of a coarser blade so that it ‘behaves’ like a finer blade, just so I
can keep working until I can order/receive more blades. Works for me.
Linda Kaye-Moses
We may be talking about two different products. The ‘Tap Magic’ that
I use has no noticeable smell. But then I’ve never heated it. The
discussion to this point was as a lubricant for jewelry drilling
purposes.
KPK
Hi Kevin:
I’d have to troop out to the barn to make sure, but I think there are
two incarnations of tap-magic. There’s the normal (brown & mildly
stinky) one for steels, bronzes and most things, and the other one,
for aluminum. That one’s a very thin blueish solution, looking sort
of like watered- down windex. Doesn’t smell much at all, as I
recall. (I’m certain that there is a blue aluminum solution, but
whether it’s specifically branded as tap-magic, I’d have to check.)
I’ve never noticed any particular irritation from using normal
(brown) tap-magic. It has a very distinctive smell, but it smells
like machine-shop to me, so it’s a good thing.
I guess it says something that the smell of coolant, grease and
cutting oil says ‘home’, sort of like mom’s cooking… (Yeah, and
my kitchen is rigged up with an argon system and a vacuum oven…)
Regards,
Brian.
I understand using Beeswax as a lube and it will collect chips if
there is a large build up on the blade. But I would like to know is
why not use Brownpolymer. It doesn’t build up on the blade if rubbed
on the blade, will stay on the blade and if rubbed dry will lube and
not collect chips. I would like responds of the likes and dislike of
why not to use it. Email me off line Callcbm at dreamscape dot com.
If applied right doesn’t transfer to the metal when cutting. and if
so simple clean up with turpentine removes with out a trace. Has
been proven to cool cutting on the blade from our testing. a cooler
blade will keep its temper and dull at a slower rate. I know the
smell might offend some people but I need to know the dislike to
change and make a better product.
We have just got in are lip balm style container which was requested
for ease application to rub the blade. also found using the sponge
makeup applicators to rub the blade will put enough on to not
interfere with seeing the line but will cool the cut and this will
make the blades last longer and increase the cut speed.
We are in the process of building are new plant and taking this
product national if any new member that wants a sample just email me
directly and I will send you a sample
Thanks Randy
AKA Enjen Joes
Yes, I think there has been some confusion. I’m presuming that the
word “tap” in Tap Magic has to do with tapping (cutting) metal,
whereas someone suggested that I purchase a product which is used to
free a stuck water tap (or faucet as I think you call them in the
States).
What lube do others use when using setting burrs? I use the Brown
Polymer as made by one of Orchid’s members. It’s great as a lube for
the saw, however, it does seem to clog the teeth of burrs, rendering
them useless. I resort to using them sans lubrication, but don’t
want to shorten their life as they are expensive ones. Any other
suggestions? Thanks.
Helen
UK
I just spit on the blade - costs nothing and works a treat… Just a
little tip from an aging Yorkshireman who is ‘careful’ with his
money but knows that the secret to a long and happy life lies in a
young woman’s saliva ;-}
Best wishes,
Ian
Ian W. Wright
Sheffield UK
What lube do others use when using setting burrs?
I’ve been reading this thread with some interest - a bit of
amusement, at times. Still don’t know about the “premature dulling”
part, but maybe I missed that - or is it clogged teeth? I use bur
life (whatever brand) for all burs, all sawing, and light engraving -
oil of wintergreen is better for serious engraving, most would say. I
just scrape the teeth of the saw on it, and no worries about
clogging… It’s just a cake of silicone. Mine cost 5 bucks or
something, nearly 20 years ago, and it’s about 1/3 used up. For burs
I just touch it to the cake - you don’t need, or want to, load it up.
Just a dab…
Helen.
I watch my father paveset over forty years ago, he did not used flex
shaft we used hand drill. He used twist drill we cannot afford
setting bur, he made a cap quarter coin size in diameter and quarter
inch high fill with cotton and little oil,just to wet the cotton.
Sponged and oil in a small cap will be better I think. Be very
careful if you using flex shaft wait until it stop or you will have
oil spill Just Kiddind, Hope this help. I have a new idea, If the
Orchidians want it I will post it.
Renato L. Ronquillo CMBJ
Out of all these posts about dull saw blades, noone has yet pointed
out it could have simply been fitted upside down! It goes dull in
just a few strokes, loaded or not. But noone would be silly enough
to do that…except me… : )
Out of all these posts about dull saw blades, noone has yet pointed out it could have simply been fitted upside down! It goes dull in just a few strokes, loaded or not. But noone would be silly enough to do that.....except me..... : )
Noooo… I was just too embarrassed to want to be the first to say
so is all. [grin]
On that note it can be hard to tell sometimes, especially with 8-0
blades which way is which. Good thing we (well nearly all of us
anyway) have finger nails, just run the blade against it and in one
direction it will catch and the other it won’t. Turn it such that it
catches on the down stroke, remember this orientation and mount it in
your saw frame and Bob’s your uncle.
Cheers, Thomas Janstrom.
Little Gems.
http://tjlittlegems.com
I just spit on the blade - costs nothing and works a treat... Just a little tip from an aging Yorkshireman who is 'careful' with his money but knows that the secret to a long and happy life lies in a young woman's saliva ;-}
Wait a minute…Does this mean that if i put some of my spit in a
jar and mail it to you, that it’ll make you happy? 
I may just
have to try spit next time I have a project I need to saw. It’s just
about the only thing I haven’t tried. Not really sure why, I just
generally reach for the beeswax or Burr-Life.
LJ
he made a cap quarter coin size in diameter and quarter inch high fill with cotton and little oil,just to wet the cotton. Sponged and oil in a small cap will be better I think.
Sponged and oil in a small cap will be better I think. Thanks for the
advice Renato. I’ll give it a try.
Helen
UK