Hi Karen, I’d be glad to! The flat cabs are hard to find if you
can’t cut them yourself, but go to enough gem shows and they’ll
eventually turn up!
Really the same concept as the commercial design, in that the back
is open and there are tabs (wide prongs) bent down to hold the stone
in. These tabs are extensions of the bezel… literally.
Its all in laying out in sheet to make the bezel. I normally use
fine silver bezel wire, but this adapted reverse bezel cup warrants
laying it out in sterling sheet. Measure for stone depth and bezel
length. Lay that line out along the edge of the sheet using dividers.
Then add another 3-4 mm for the tabs and layout that line. Using a
square, scribe vertical lines from the top line to the bottom to
define the tabs, and saw the bezel and tabs out in one piece.
Form into a circlet and solder with hard solder. Sand flat the edge
without the tabs, form to the stone and solder that down to sheet
with medium solder. Trim off excess sheet, file, sand, etc.
Create your design and pierce, in reverse, from the inside. File and
refine the piercing. Polish, and set the stone from behind by bending
Not especially sophisticated, but effective!
Hope this helps,
Sebaste Studio and
Carolina Artisans’ Gallery
Charlotte, NC (USA)