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Another bezel question

I would like to set some flat, circular and square cloisonn=e pieces
in bezel settings. I have never sit anything flat like this in a
bezel and am concerned about hammer setting these flat glass pieces.
Would I be better off with a thin, push-over bezel (which I generally
dislike), or a thick, short hammer-set bezel? I would appreciate any
tips or tricks that would help me.

Thank you,

I would do faux bezel (underneath insertion). Standard bezel is risky
for enamel.

Leonid Surpin

Personally I would set them in a thin burnished setting so as not to
put undue stress on the enamels. Alternatively a thick close fitting
bezel and cement the enamels in place. I don’t know what these
enamels look like but the thought of a hammer action near them sounds
risky. If you want a thicker edge why not make your push over setting
a little deeper and make a rim to fit inside and rub the edge over
the inserted rim.

Hope this helps Hamish

Jamie- I would set them like a fragile cameo. From the back. Make
your bezel side and solder a rim on the top. Then place the enameled
panels in from the back. Then make a thin ring of metal preferably
pure/.999 silver or 20-24 kt gold. Push it in behind the panel on
the back. then raise some fine beads on the inside of the rim holding
the panel in place.

Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
Jo Haemer

Jamie -

Anothher option is to tab set the enamel using step-bezel wire,
reversed. Make the setting for the enamel ensuring a close fit. The
enamel will be put into the bezel from the back, so that the step
holds the piece at its front perimeter. When all the other work
(bail, decorations, etc) has been finished and you are ready to set
it, just use your jewlers saw to cut tabs on the back, and push them
in just enough to hold the enamel in. Very secure, little pressure on
the enamel.

Something else I do is to make a castelated (like the ramparts of a
castle) or toothed setting of a bezel (set the enamel the
front/normal way). You can do a lot of decorative carving with your
saw, it makes it easy to bend the resulting tabs by hand giving a
gentle but secure grip on the enamel.

Linda Darty’s book on enameling has a great section on bezel setting