Polishing compounds are graduated similar to sandpaper and lapidary
polishing pastes. You start with coarser stuff and gradually move to
The yellow is probably bobbing compound. It is very aggressive! IT
REMOVES scratches and also the detail on your work if you over do it.
But it doesn’t polish-just leaves a dull luster. Lol I remember
putting a piece of silver plate on the bobbing wheel for about 2
nano-seconds, and I got the most beautiful brass patch you’ve ever
seen. That was the end of that goblet.
White tripoli is a medium polish. I like it better than green tripoli
on silver. White seems to do a better job of ridding silver
firescale. Green seems to bring it out. On gold, I can’t tell the
difference between green and white.
Red rouge and/or white fabulustre for final polish.
Keep your polish sticks and polish pads separated by compound. e.g.
keep the bob and the bob wheels in a separate box than the tripoli
and tripoli pads. If you mix them up, you’ll contaminate the finer
polish pads with coarses polish compounds.
But the trick in polishing is always getting rid of scratches before
you ever get to the polish stage. I work thru 220, 400, 600, and 1200
grits sandpapers before I ever start to polish. I try to protect my
metal when I sand by placing a cloth on my bench pin. Placing the
metal directly on the bench pin just gets scratches from the little
metal bits that are now embedded in the bench pin. If you don’t get
the scratches out, all that polishing will do is give you shiney
When setting stones, I wrap my piece in tape where the graver vice
will hold it. Always protect your metal as you work. You won’t
totally eliminate picking up scratches as you work, but you can
greatly reduce them.
What a nasty pain in the butt it is to set your stones, only to
discover a big ugly scratch, where you thought you had made it all
Here’s a tip on soft muslin wheels. Go to Sears hardware area. They
sell a package of 5 or 6 different size soft muslin wheels for $10.
Such a deal!