James B. and everyone else who explained the differences, I thank
you. While we are on the subject, has anyone tried using a
traditional Japanese made square block/anvil? I imagine those were
traditionally forged and not cast because they normally did not get
iron or steel to melting temperatures?
Take a walk down your neighborhood railroad. A couple of nice
railroad spikes are great to have around. I have one I polished up
decades ago. Bill
Reactive Metals Studio, Inc
While we are on the subject, has anyone tried using a traditional Japanese made square block/anvil?
The Sword smiths in Japan these days use a chunk of steel, not
forged or anything special, just a ludicrously large chunk. CIA
While we are on the subject, has anyone tried using a traditional Japanese made square block/anvil?
I have a custom made anvil that is similar. I’m planning a second
smaller one for later this year or next, already have the steel.
Dan Culver
Also the rairoad spikes are a nice soft iron which forges easily. I
made my father in law a nice letter opener out of one - a shiny
blade and the rough spike head as the handle. He loved it!
John
I printed all of this discussion into a document to read over the
various opinions. I like what was said about maybe some of us don’t
really need an anvil. I am still learning and I work in copper,
nickel and brass, not silver as yet. My pieces are no more than 4" if
that. I am not strong like a blacksmith either. Maybe for me a bench
block is enough for flat pieces.
However, I love to forge shapes and depth. Currently I am working on
a dome. My husband wants me to ‘bite the bullet’ and begin to collect
forming stakes rather than fool around with trying to grind and
reshape used tools that are designed for other purposes. In my class
I had an opportunity to use the higher quality tools that the
advanced students get to use and I experienced the time savings and
less frustration of using jewelers’ tools rather than the hammers I
have tried to grind down!So, my question is, is it worth the time and
expense of a machinist to rework the auto body tools I have drug home
(as well as the rail)? Or, will I have the same quality issue as with
the rail?Also, some people seem to feel a springy response is better
in an anvil or rail. How much rebound makes the work easier, more
accurate and faster to produce with less hits?
brenda
What steel surfaces dictate what hammer and weight of hammer you use
to forge?
brenda
So, my question is, is it worth the time and expense of a machinist to rework the auto body tools I have drug home (as well as the rail)? Or, will I have the same quality issue as with the rail?Also, some people seem to feel a springy response is better in an anvil or rail. How much rebound makes the work easier, more accurate and faster to produce with less hits?
Sorry Brenda, only you can decide if remanufacturing is worth it
compared to purchasing new.
If you are just learning, than I see no waste in regrinding, you
will learn much from this experience as well. If on the other hand
you are selling product and your time is better spent producing then
you may want to buy new. There are many suppliers for stakes and
hammers. All the traditional companies, specially Allcraft have
stakes and hammers. Potter, mentioned here before, has a nice
collection of tools. I have no experience with tools made by Potter,
but they appear fine. Piehl Tool Company in AZ carries a nice
selection of very high quality stakes and hammers. They are more of a
blacksmith company but if your interest are more toward
silversmithing, vessels, and larger objects, I would recommend
looking in that direction. If you ever need a specialized hammer
there are many companies, but for the ability to follow instructions,
I found Brent Bailey Forge, 530-865-4176, to be invaluable and fair
priced.
The idea of springiness in an anvil is a common misnomer. What
people are trying to express, is a subjective measure of rebound
produced by a combination of mass, density, mounting, and angle of
contact. High mass in an anvil produces better results, regardless
the material. High quality dense steels, such as tool steels, will
produce better results than 1018 or 1034 steel. For a serious user,
even whether the steel came from a quality source compared to a below
average source, is detectable. No matter what you hammer on it should
be set at a height that works for you; think square blows to the work
piece. Whether an anvil is mounted rigid or loose (only an
expression, usually held by chains) is based on preferences and
objectives. I use both a travel mounted (allowed to move horizontally
and rebound vertically within limits) and a couple rigid mounted
anvils. You can not have an anvil that moves if it is too light
(under 100#); that would be dangerous.
I have said before that I fall into the category of user who thought
it was fine to pound on any heavy block of metal. I did that for a
long time and was frustrated with the results of my work. Since I
had plenty of things to do flatware took a backseat to my regular
work despite my great interest in it. I blamed myself for many
failures of prototype work until I bought a proper anvil. The
difference is as deafening as the sound. Without changing any other
aspects of my work arrangement the anvil solved many problems.
I would add that there are stakes with anvil tops. For small items
this maybe fine, I don’t know since I don’t make anything smaller
than a belt buckle, but to be usable for anything larger, they must
be rigid mounted in a big, high quality vise. A vise that cost as
much as an anvil.
Good luck,
Dan Culver
What steel surfaces dictate what hammer and weight of hammer you use to forge?
That’s a pretty large question.
When I wear my blacksmith hat, I use one anvil, and have a selection
of different weighted and shaped hammers.
The jewellers hat is new, but everything is really small when
compared to my blacksmith tools. I find jewellers riveting hammers
very amusing, they feel like toys.
Regards Charles
What steel surfaces dictate what hammer and weight of hammer you use to forge?
For forging (given proper use of word) you will want to use forged
hammers. Many many companies out there. This is one time were bigger
is better, to a point. The hammer should be doing the work, not you.
As the forger you are concerned with lifting the hammer high enough
to be effective and fast enough to be profitable. That is why you
will hear so many different opinions. I have hammers in weights
between 1# and 6# and use them all. I use 2.5 and 3.5# hammers the
most. If you are new to forging, you will most like have to start a
little smaller and build up to more effective weights. I think it’s
true that you can never have too many hammers, but you should take
your time acquiring them. Figure out what work most interest you and
what combination of hammers, anvil (if needed), and stakes is most
likely to accomplish that result. Buy the minimum number of tools at
the highest quality you can afford. Personally (and I mean, MY
personal preference) I favor spending more on an anvil and
purchasing just 1 or 2 good hammers, than spending too much on
stakes. Stakes seem to be the easiest thing to find substitutes or
make yourself.
Dan Culver
For short vertical stakes for forming small things like spoon bowls,
I use railroad spikes. You can pick them up for free along railroad
tracks and grind the heads to any shape you want.
RC
Hi Andrew:
Would you mind telling me how you finished your piece of rail? I
have a piece I’d like to finish but not sure how to attempt it.
Thank you!
Debbie Parent