One must be very knowledgeable in the melting of white gold.
That is why you don't see much of the right stuff.
Yes the fine gold content of what you use is the final determination
of the volume of nickel that can be absorbed in the mix. Hence 18K
would have a higher volume of fine gold and that would allow you to
add a greater percentage of nickel to it and it would be brighter
and whiter than 14K white.
So are you saying that a higher, or "right percentage" of nickel
content in white gold can be considered "the right stuff"?
Yes good hard strong prongs bright and white, and strong shanks that
don't deform easily.
Not for bead work, you have seen platinum prongs bent if not done
right. (too thin for the length they are.)
Pure gold is like a sponge and will only accept so much nickel then
it doesn't absorb it any more.
You could never add a little gold to a large amount of nickel. Like
the silver recipe in reverse couldn't be done. 2% gold and 98%
Silver is the same but worse, I have tried to go over 2 % nickel to
harden it up for my silver sample mechanisms but that was the limit.
Pure gold is better as you can get more nickel into it. It has a
better sponge effect.
It is easier to use low grade and cover it up with rhodium and
everybody accepts it as the norm.
Yes as the suppliers are always trying to supply metal that the
casters can re melt many more times without cracking, they reduce
the nickel content to borderline percentages (Not true white) to
keep it tender to accommodate the trade. (Hackers white... Get out
Yellow never cracks as there is no nickel in it, unless you
contaminate it and I have seen some bad yellow too in my time.
Nickel is the culprit (Or it can be your friend if you know how to
handle it) as it becomes dry and brittle after the second melt (And
the second melt consists of half fresh and half old scraps from the
first melt) and nobody enjoys the stress.
Back in the 1960's Johnson Matthey would refine 18K white gold for
10 cents a dwt. so after the second melt they would use fresh gold.
Cost was not a deterrent at 10 cents a dwt..
Today the cost of everything is prohibitive and everybody is trying
to cut corners.
The other soft whites are fine for bead work, but I always prefer
the strong nickel white for prongs. And as I make mechanisms I need
the old high quality, soft is not for me as my prongs don't bend if
you knock the ring.
You do as you like but this is how I do it for the last 45 years.
This was in reply to the comment that she was in wonder at the nice
white sizing that amazed her not needing rhodium plating, and a good
18K white is pliable too even though it is hard
To do fancy work I use platinum, and install my P.F.F. Ring Clasps
mechanisms in 18K high grade white gold without rhodium and have
never had a problem. So there=85
Yes there is a place for all the other alloys especially for bead
work where you can't get the platinum price.
They were made available as a poor man's platinum look.
The only thing to add to my clasps when finished installing is oil.
See example of what I am talking about.
P.F.F. Hinged ring Shanks