First
If she knew she was “allergic” to an alloy of white gold why did she
ask for it- if I read it correctly though, it was fabricated in Pt-
why go with any other metal when you simply remove the stones and
reclaim ite Or when you suggested any other alloy why didn’t she
speak up then?- sounds like she either didn’t like the way the job
turned out or buyer’s remorse, if not -your work *was *lacking. In
any case all charges are hers to pay- provided the initial design and
fabrication was what she agreed to, and any “redoux”…is hers to pay
for minus any mistakes you made. but i have addressed this more
below.
A couple of manufacturers claim 14kt Pd is hypo-allergenic. Perhaps
show it to her in writing (Roseco’s current catalogue - triple key,
has a section on it’s properties) and get her to sign off on this
design and agreement too. Or ask, what* isn’t *she allergic to and
work from there. Palladium being a platinum group metal is inherently
hypo-allergenic, however I have seen people develop contact
dermatitis from an alloy of 14kt gold and palladium even though the
palladium was not the culprit but the nickel, etc. in the karated
gold- in that cased it was the jeweller’s mistake not thinking that
the white alloy had nickel in it, and that the Pd wouldn’t magically
neutralise it. You can “karat” Pd, but i think it’s rather
misleading- and that pure Pd is the hypo-allergenic metal: to karat
it with fine gold to be able to mark it gold for assay purposes is,
in my opinion a waste of gold and palladium, Melting down the nickel
based white alloy (14kt) can’t really help you reclaim and re-use the
gold in the alloy, so there is a problem in that she didn’t divulge
there was any problem when signing the proof or initial agreement-
thus the costs are hers- but you could perhaps offer to make her a
seal or signet attached to a handle to use the metal she already
bought, even though the labour would be an additional charge for
remaking it at all ! Platinum is now cheaper than gold- so once
explaining that to her, tell her it will be lighter than before
based on the relative gravity of the metal in relation to the amount
needed…
I would consider fine silver or fine gold though if she doesn’t want
to swing for the Pt and the fault lies in her failure to disclose
chips, flaws, design proof disagreements, etc. Pd is cheaper and can
be used but you’ll need Pt torches, etc…(though I’m sure you have
them already!).
Does sound like you failed to give her a proof to sign - that’s the
first thing I do before accepting or agreeing to ANY custom
/commissioned job. On the other hand if you did show her a sketch at
least, and she agreed to it, then again, all costs, e tc. revert to
being her responsibility as she approved it in the first place. If
however your drawing or model showed the channel being at least as
deep as any embellishment and you accidentally didn’t allow for it
when attaching it/them to the ring’s shank/band then perhaps the
design error should be discounted. but as for “being bumpy”…I have
to wonder what the client thought it would be - provided she approved
that first design and the fabricate order was given! She should have
seen the stones, twigs, etc. and said something then. If you made it
exactly as you initially specified then I’d spell everything out in
writing to this client and remind her of any initial approval she
gave you in writing and that it is exactly as was described/specified
when you worked on the proof- and if you choose to remake anything at
all for this person- though it may be an extra charge, not to mention
pain in the butt, but make a wax model , if not a simple cuttlefish
reproduction and modify the cuttlebone to reflect the design changes,
then get her to sign off on proofs for both design and metal and
agree on a charge for the new model making ( unless it was your
fault- then discount -deeply- the model making) but charge for any
tweaking that may be necessary to the model then either cast it or
refabricate it using the repored platinum and her sentimental stones
etc.
Keep in mind if it was your fault, you shouldn’t charge for the
stone removal- so that line item gets listed as a discount or credit,
and as for the metal- I still say, if she agreed to any alloy she
shouldn’t be complaining about the metal. Otherwise if you made it in
Pt simply re-use the same metal- just charge her for the refining and
labour you will have to do to reclaim it. Nothing lost there.
If something rubbed her fingers raw- it was either the prongs or
stones. I have never seen stones rub anyone’s fingers raw unless
they were chipped. Unless you are a lapidary I wouldn’t re-cut them
but you may, using a diamond lap, etc. repolish them and attempt to
remove any chip- again. Before doingso, getr a signed release so you
aren’t held responsible for previously damaged stones. You should
have noted any chips, etc. when inspecting any stones you
initially accepted to incorporate into your design *and pointed them
out to the client *and had a waiver ready as chipped stones can
break in setting and with sentimental stones you don’t want to bear
the brunt of replacement unless your insurance covers them. If You
have none, consider possibly selling the client a Jeweler’s Mutual
policy for the new piece, as well as other jewellery she may wish to
add on. It will cover the ring fully although you will have to
declare the inclusion of damaged stones in the piece that is damaged
but sentimentally valuable, which insurers, in general- don’t like to
insure, as such JM being one of the few exceptions for independent
goldsmith’s and their designs.- If however you set it wrong side out
and or above any channel, etc. then it is, I’m afraid, your mistake
and the labour costs have to be adjusted at whatever your rate is for
re-setting.
If she wears other white gold jewellery (that you have observed
personally) then presume she wasn’t happy with the job, and
reconsider taking it on again unless you think you can improve it
considerably. But it’s unclear where all the problems lie.
Sounds like you failed to do some basic inspections, and possibly
basic paperwork and contractual agreement making. On the other hand,
the client may have insisted you use damaged materials that scraped
her. or something else could have done it, or the ring wasn’t
finished properly. very sticky situation. If you aren’t comfortable
remaking the piece simply don’t. Contract it out. If you are
confident and want future business with the client spell it all out-
get her signatures on the appropriate forms and go for it adjusting
if and where necessary. Otherwise if she wears Pt and you have it,
why go to a lower noble metal?re-use the Pt! Particularly if she
hasn’t worn palladium before. Why risk it ( even though the
likelihood of it causing a rash are pretty slim)…If she was rubbed
then It sounds like a design flaw- you must correct.(may just need to
reset the stones deeper and smooth any sharp edges or burs. but when
she initially picked it up if there was no problem, no complaints and
after time passed…
You have to consider all the possibilities. like other jewellery
worn, other causes if the jewellery is made correctly, and whether
you want to continue to deal with this client if you can find nothing
you did was wrong, or not according to her agreed on specifications.
rer