High Pat, looked you up, but you dont show an email address .
Im on vladimirdotfrateratgmaildotcom. Write to me off list as id like to
show you the work i do withv 316 as well. Thank goodness there are metal
smiths here that are not just saw solder and set. ie bench jewellers.
nothing against them of course, but no way I want to work.
Ted
Ted,
There are more metal smiths here than you think. I trained first as a metalsmith working in all mediums. Then a move to the San Fracisco area prompted me to take all the courses at the Revere academy. I understand an can appreciate your work very much. I love a good trip hammer. These days after an injury to my dominate hand, I do little work and mostly in non ferrous metals. I always said, “An anvil, a hammer and a blow torch, are better than prozac when you have teenagers.” It’s how my daughter made it to adulthood.
RoyJohn,
Next time Im in the Phoenix area seeing my Navajo foster daughter (not the one who made me smash metal) I can show you some tricks i learned that you might think of incorporating into your stuff. Just ideas, nice to pass on what I know to people stretching for a new look.
Aggie still running around in shorts, and sandals, waiting for our next cold snap to take us down below the 70’s
Hi Aggie,
Jus a few thougths for you, this thread has been created as a sub forum for real as you say ,hammer, anvil and torch ![IMG_20180129_2227546|666x500]
The scope is really only limited by your imagination.
I attach 2 pictures for you.
1, the s/steel cuffs I make as part of my historical series of the History of the cuff or torque" These are from the “Dark ages " period between when theRomans left around 300 to 400ad, the british isles” till the Normans came in 1066. A complete contradiction in materials and time, but really catch the pagan ethos of the time.
2.The drop hammer I built as a fully portable unit, dismantles in 3 hrs, tho it
takes a day to assemble at a customers site to a contract, turnkey, like minting 500 999ag coins at a Castle in Germany to celebrate the 100th yr of their museum founding.
That was Schloss burg. Solingen
I could go on, to lots of other such contracts.
Also hi Don,
glad you like my abbreviation to the 3 s’s.
Now lets be a bit more serious, im so disappointed to see so many talented foks here ignore the 3rd way of making jewelly,
thats fully wrought work, where the metsl itself is the feature and that doesnt need jewels or other mineral material to enhance it. Tho of course jewels were originally for all sorts of reasons to ward off bad spirits etc.
Await lots of comments about specifically wrought metal.
We can talk about proper heavy as on big hammer work in non ferrous metals in due course.
Ted
in Dorset
UK.
1 Like
I am guessing that what I see is the drop hammer(my English may not be yours). Those threaded rods that project at four equal points around the hammer appear to be adjustable weights with travelers that adjust in or out to balance the strike. Am I correct?
Don
---- Edward Vladimir Frater orchid@ganoksin.com wrote:
Hi Don,
to set up, this standard Hazelwood Dent drop hammer, my way, first introduced in B’ham in around 1880.
- the overall machine, one makes sure that the flat surface on the base/anvil is parrell both ways. (a good spirit level.). This means the ground has to be prepared also true. Assembled weight 1 ton.
- the 4 screws with lock nuts hold the die central to the hammer, they have nothing to do with the hammer. The energy one gets is dependent on the height of the drop. Fully variable.
- The hammer can be either, with a flat working face, many differnt inserts for diferent work, or another die to do 2 sided work, ie coin or medal production in a collar supported by the bottom die.
4.the hammer in his picture weighs 275lbs and can fall at full drop, 32 feet per sec per sec, ie gravity, about 4 ft. How much of this energy you get depends how fast you stop the hammer.
This hammer is also dead parrell to the base working surface as is the die also parrell. I had this hammer made for me from a piece of ships propeller shafting.
I also got it into my lathe as it needed a slight modification!!. - the guides are cast iron and im very concious of their fragility!!, these are ajustable in both planes to ensure 4 is true to the die and base. Bid stuff is done standing up, little with a swing seat.
- When all that is done the operation is as follows
- motor 1.5HP 1440 rpm,on base.
- . lift mech is also run at 1440 rpm into a worm and wheel box , reduction to 60 rpm. Runs non stop.
- hammer is parked with a lock lever on rt guide.
the lift strap goes 1 1/2 times around the lift wheel.
My rt hand pulls about 18/20lbs on this strap to lift 275lbs hammer
off safety catch. Can hold it steady, floating on the clutch/ lift wheel. - I lift the strap to let the hammer free fall. A fast upward movement!
it strikes and bounces off work, - THEN!!! the tricky bit , you have to catch the hammer in mid air so it doesnt strike twice!!.
- Lift hammer and park with the L hand with safety lock lever.
Time from 3. to 6, about10 secs.
Then remove work and repeat.
No one has made one of these fully portable , so as Ive said before
I take it to the customer to mint at his whatever, for a contract price.
Also lots of my own production.
All roped off of course, no public allowed near.
Hope this explains enough for you to build your own. Do all my own steel fab. tho as you can see, nuts are all square to be period correct.
Just love big hammers.
With best, as always,
Ted.
Wow,. No such thing as a simple operation is there. Thanks for the blow by blow, so to speak.
Don
---- Edward Vladimir Frater orchid@ganoksin.com wrote:
Hi Bob,
Glad you liked the details.
Ill ask my IT guru if he can do a 1min video of it in operation, as im planning on a lot of minting over the next few weeks.
Let me know.
It sounds more complicated than it actualy is.
Seth can I post a video?
Ted.