Working alone?

While I do make a large amount of one of a kind work, I don't rely
at all on it to pay the bills. I make my living solely in the
field, but one of a kind work is just a piece of a pie that also
contains custom and commission work and teaching workshops.

Hi, Andy,

Thank you for your thoughtful responses to my query. What you say is
very interesting and helpful.

I don’t mean to be nit-picky, but I am curious about the statement
above. Isn’t custom and commission work one of a kind? I presume the
distinction is primarily that it is paid for in advance. But is the
type of work actually different? Do you also do any work that isn’t
really one-off?

And-- for those of you who do o.o.a.k. work and simpler or
production work-- do you market them separately? I fear that my cases
at shows look a bit schizophrenic, as I do abstract, contemporary
work as well as the narrative, anodized titanium work that is my
“trademark” (visible at http://www.ganoksin.com/orchid/noel.htm). The
former sells much more reliably than the latter, but the latter is
nearer my heart (and more original).

Thanks for your thoughts!

–Noel

Dear Noel,

Can you display your work as separate “collections”? Maybe give them
names and everything. I know it might sound corny but I’ve found that
we get too familiar with the work and see too easily the distinctions
and the buying public generally needs more prompting to see what’s
going on and to get it. If you sense your display is chaotic it
probably seems more so to people who don’t understand the work as
well as you do. Maybe get an outsider to give you feedback about how
things show.

Janet

Okay, I am newly signed up and have been reading these posts for a
week now and it occurred to me to ask; what are the definitions each
of us has for helper/apprentice/assistant? What is it to you and are
they different? What are the preferred ways of becoming a jeweler,
as I saw mentioned, some prefer the art schools, some prefer to hand
choose and train who they see fit. If an apprenticeship is different
from an assistantship, in what ways is it? The truth be told, I am
not a Jeweler. I have worked with silver a bit and then stopped to
finish college in engineering and now I am thinking that was a
mistake. I am now looking to get into the craft that I have always
really wanted to be in. How does one really do that? There seem to be
so many avenues. Sorry if this seems too off topic but I was thinking
that maybe definition could be a difference in keeping help or having
the help run into other areas then again maybe it is just a
difference in ways of thinking about education and careers.

Andrian Hanson
@andrian_hanson

Hi Noel,

I always considered custom and commission to be basically the same
thing, but a friend who does quite a bit of incredible goldsmithing–
on commission-- convinced me that there is a difference.

This is how I’ve come to see it:

With custom work the client, or customer, broadly participates in
the process, from conception through design. In this case, the smith
is basically designing and building a piece tailored to the
requirements and preferences of that client. A client might ask, for
instance, for a ring with a the uber cute teddy bear from the
Snuggles commercial. (They just think it’s sooo darling…) I’d look
at the commercial ( forget in this example about securing rights or
copyright violations), and figure out the best, most efficient way to
produce an accurate representation of that bear in quality materials
and with fine craftsmanship.

I would never choose to make this ring just for the heck of it.

If, on the other hand, someone commissioned me to make a ring, they
might specify that it be a ring and the size and perhaps material,
but they have approached me because they want a piece made by me with
my sensibility, aesthetic and approach. They have basically given me
carte blanche and, indeed, consider the mystery and surprise of what
they’ll ultimately receive to be part of the experience.

The ring that I make would be in line with the work that I am
currently making or perhaps might serve as a springboard to a new
body of work.

The most recent examples of commission work for me are a fish
server, which I think is on the Orchid archives, a chalice/goblet and
a pair of newel post caps-- caps for the top of vertical stair posts.

The server featured a technique that I had been playing with in
earrings and neckpieces. After the server it found it’s way into
brooches as well. The cup taught me the most. I hadn’t raised large
objects in years and I also took some risks, most notably fusing
silver filings to the entire exterior of the raised cup form. The
caps were an opportunity to work out some details from jewelry on a
larger stage and under a more focused light. I made them last
November and today I’ll finish a brooch that is actually a smaller
version of those caps.

Custom work, for me, has usually been much easier to do. Working
from with dictated parameters takes a lot of the pressure off.

As far as making anything but one offs: I do make earrings that I’d
consider production. But they are, in the end, one offs.

Hope this helps. Good topic.

Andy

As far as making anything but one offs: I do make earrings that I'd
consider production. But they are, in the end, one offs. 

Andy

Hi Andy - since you differentiated between custom and commission
work, is there any difference in your terminology “one offs” and “one
of a kind”?

And you confuse me by saying you make earrings that you consider
production but they are in the end one offs.

This, then, sounds like your “one offs” are reproductions of your
“one of a kind”?

Now I’m really confused.

K

around here, one of our local colleges encourages such artistic
ego, that those grads are specifically avoided in hiring by at
least some jewelers.

Elaine- well perhaps some jewelers avoid hiring recent graduates
because its not economical in that the academic programs are not
teaching up to the real world demands of the jewelry industry.
schools are a business nowadays and they want to make $$ just like
every other capitalist venture in the U.S.A. if you think about it
you have a situation where there are a bunch of kids who are young
and uninformed a set of parents paying who are uninformed and you
dont find out you aren’t marketable until after you get the diploma.
think about this what school is going to pay average of $5-8 per item
for gold 4 prong heads and $15 a dwt for gold solder (, not to
mention the several thousand $$ each just for a properly set up
bench) so the kids can torch them into granules,and still make money?

  • goo

K,

Hi Andy - since you differentiated between custom and commission
work, is there any difference in your terminology "one offs" and
"one of a kind"? And you confuse me by saying you make earrings that
you consider production but they are in the end one offs. 

Sorry for the confusion. I make runs of what I would (and have )
termed “production” earrings several times a year. They are one of
several styles of earring that are fairly quick to make (so that they
fall in a modest price point), are somewhat standardized in their
manufacture and contain lower costs in materials.

One style of earring is a confetti or corkscrew dangle earring made
in sterling, rose gold or 22k/ sterling bimetal. All have 14k
earwires. Since they are not cast multiples (and by design) their is
a wide variation in length, twisting pattern and tightness of the
coils. Some are squat and taper from wide at the top to a point at
the bottom. Some are quite attenuated and are oriented the opposite
way. The customer has a variety to select from, but all are obviously
from the same “line”.

Check out Patina-gallery.com next week… I’m having and opening at
Patina gallery in Santa Fe 11/4. There should also be an online
exhibition that includes these earrings. There’s also an example on
my web site: andycooperman.com

Hope this clears it up.

Andy

For the purposes of my prior post, I used one of a kind and one off
interchangeably.

Check out Patina-gallery.com next week.. I'm having and opening at
Patina gallery in Santa Fe 11/4. There should also be an online
exhibition that includes these earrings. 

Thanks for the explanation Andy, and for sure I’ll check out
Patina-gallery.com. And I did go and look at your website - it’s
great. Thanks.

K