David. You should spin this off as a separate thread.
I just discussed this on Facebook a couple of weeks ago.I tend to let people know that it might be time to retire the ring. We can reset the gems if they are in good enough shape. Maybe get some re-polishing done if needed.
And I suggest taking a small part of the ring shank, cutting it off and soldering it to the inside of the new ring. And always so it is visible as a separate piece! That way the ring can still be taken off, the old parts seen, and the memories can live on in the new ring.There is almost always tears and crying when I suggest this. But more often than not, it ends up being less expensive than trying to rehab a piece of jewelry that is past help.The process is hard. Much like grieving.
And many times it was part of the grieving process for a loved one.
But in the end, the client was always happy.
Gerald A. Livings
Livingston Jewelers
I enjoy doing major restorations. So if the piece was once substantial enough for daily wear Iām willing to do whatever is needed to return it to its original condition (or better).
If you are good at that sort work and donāt mind doing it, it can be among the most profitable work you can do. On a level with new custom work. Yes it is time consuming but your material costs are usually very low. Plus it has the added benefit of likely being the most meaningful piece of jewelry the customer owns. Tears of joy make it all worthwhile.
Mark
Mark- Most any one can make a pretty piece of jewelry with fresh metal and
new stones. Saving an old worn out piece takes REAL skills
- Jo Haemer
www.timothywgreen.com
Hello!
Most of my customers are online, so I have marketed most of my Opals as promise rings. If a customer comes to me with a custom request for an Opal, I explain the issues with hardness and scratching, that it will have to be replaced in the future, and let them decide from there.
Best of luck!
Gena Smith
Moonkist Designs, LLC
So true, Jo, about saving old piecesā¦
In fact, I have my great great (great to the nth) grandfatherās ring, a true heirloom. It was made for him in London in the 17th century. Itās been in the family for at least 16 generations, and still looks great.
Every now and then through the years, the stones have become damaged, and have had to be replaced.
When the shank has become too worn, or broken, itās been replaced with shiny new metal.
Anyway, I love wearing this ring that once belonged to my great great (great to the nth) grandfather. I can practically feel the history it carries in its bones.
Best,
Alec
(With due credit to the ax that originally inspired this story.)
I set a gorgeous black opal in a wedding band. I did tell the customer the risks involved but she wanted it. The configuration was such that the accompanying diamond was set about 3/16" rising above and to the side of the bezel-set opal on a column of gold which had 2 sculptural arms that nearly surrounded the opal. The arms themselves did not touch the bezel but were spaced a few mms from the bezel. I hope you can visualize this. 
anyway there was little chance of the surface of the opal being hit or abraded because the surface of the stone was āguardedā by the column and the sides by the āarmsā. I believe she wore this every day for decades until arthritis affected her ring size.
In the case of silver I use 980 or pure siver for the settings.
In the case of gold, I use 22 karat o something like that.
Good Luck
Adriana in Santiago of Chile
I protected a center stone for a nurse by designing a bezel around the setting. It looks beautiful and is functional for her.
I think that, as in nearly all instances, honesty and transparency is the gold standard. If a client wants to use an unsuitable material for a project then that is their decision-- tempered by the sage advice of the maker. If, despite the cautions, they want to move forward, that is okay with me. As long as all scenarios are disclosed, discussed and documented.
Just my thinking.
Andy
Please excuse any typos-- curse my clumsy digitsā¦
But at some point, the occasional piece is beyond saving. Once in a while, there just is not enough to work with. After a ring has been re-tipped, resized and shanked, with pieces added on or built up with random solders, It is time to gracefully retire them. Now for an extreme, the next story is more of a lack of care than normal wear.
I had a wedding ring that a lady was proud of never removing for 7 years. One gifted from her mother. And before that, grandmother. She worked doing drywall with her husband.
I made sure that the sales person knew I was totally against cleaning her ring. We discussed this and I suggested she send that customer down the street to find someone else. But it was a chance at a sale so. . .
With the correct verbiage on the work envelope saying I was not at fault for anything that happened to her ring, I proceeded to soak it in my ultrasonic and various solvents to try and get it clean. It took several days but I got it clean. And it fell into several parts when I did. It was held together with plaster dust and drywall mud. I think at least 3 colors of paint as well. Some of the stuff was a mystery that was encased in her ring. By far the most extreme case of not knowing how to care for jewelry I have ever seen.
And to top it off, the store tried to force me to pay for the new ring the customer wanted. Every time they tried I sent them a photocopy of the work order with the part signed by the client agreeing I was not to be held at fault.
They fired the salesperson involved.
I as well love doing major restorations. It is like bringing an old friend back to life for the client.