The use of water soluble glue is ancient (egyptians, hellenes,
etruscans, etc. ) and far from ridiculous. The question was answered
in private after being shown the project. Making size and proportion
assumptions without seeing the project is feckless and
unprofessional. If you had seen the project you might have surmised
that cutting a 1 tenth (and how would you accurately measure that?)
of a millimeter groove on either side of the channel for 90 stones
would be a considerable time/cost burden and unnecessary for the
design integrity…there are approximately 90 stones.
Your comments are more of a design aesthetic theory not practical
application, not that I would disagree with your eye for proportion.
If you have seen jewelry or fashion publications for the last 35
years, you would notice that channels work exceedingly well for small
stones as seen by the plethora of channeled diamond designs filling
every page. I just finished watching your setting video… My
thoughts on your technique are as follows: I probably would have
stopped you on about the 1st minute of the video. I think that is
where you start marking with ink. When did felt markers become
"traditional"? I jest here but the point is that there is no such
thing as “traditional technique” in reality. There is only using what
is current in technology or not… i. e. felt markers, stainless
steel, gravers, hammers, electric lights… et al, were all new
technology at one time.
How long did it take to mark the band that you had to make it a
cutscene? If you’ve engineered your band to fit the stones properly
and account for metal movement, there is no need for marking. The
setting rails should already be in place at the right height with an
accounting for prepolish.
Then cutting seats with the graver on an anniversary band…
setting 30 bands a day, with consistency and precision, week after
week, will cure you of that archaic romanticism. Let me introduce
you to Mr. Flexshaft and his friend the setting bur. If you are
really savvy with a mill, you can set it up for fast and accurate
Then cutting “stitches” over the stone…glue is faster, cleaner,
and without mishap… if you are raising beads/stitches then don’t
call it channel setting. Pushing the channel walls by hand… this
isn’t the stone age… Try creating pliers for the job or use a
hammer piece on a flexshaft or air powered… there are other more
clever options but I’ll save that for later. Dragging a file over my
melee… I don’t care if you polished a dead side… don’t waste my
time, money, and chance knocking an edge off… try a pumice wheel
or any other number of rubber wheels that will shape the channel
without harming the stone.
I’ve had quite a few jewelers over the years, using antiquated
techniques thinking they were doing it the “right way” or
traditional. Some were retrainable, some were not.
There is a certain arrogance that comes along with learning a
technique or You see it in doctors where they think
their patient is incapable of understanding the complexity of their
illness and I see it in jewelers that think how they learned it is
the “real way” or “right way”. There isn’t a “right way”, there is
only doing it to the best of your knowledge and capability…
everything else is anachronistic ego fulfillment. While I get
satisfaction on many levels, jewelry is my trade, not my therapy.
If you really want to show traditional techniques, try beating
placer gold with a rock.
With all of your “cutscenes” it’s difficult to accurately ascertain
your total time for completion.
I’m going to guess it’s far over an hour for your 15 minute video.
(Iwould love to know the stone count and actual time it took) Did
you square chamfer the underside or leave round drill holes?
How much do you charge your customer per stone?
Time is money and my time is very expensive. If you want to be able
to profit from your labor, I recommend more modern techniques.
Otherwise you are spending time planning on your obsolescence and
subsequent unemployment. Keep in mind the coach makers of the last
century. I understand you want to position your opinion as an expert
and promote your site and technical products but try to refrain from
calling other peoples comments “ridiculous”, we all live in glass
“There is no such thing as “traditional tool or technique” in
reality. There is only using what is current technology or not.”