Hi Rick,
On 11/6 you said:
I’ve noticed several people’s comments about the need for a cheap
wax pen. I have specs for two easy-to-make types I’d be happy to share if
there’s enough interest. Just let me know.
If it isn’t to big a hassel, how about putting it here?
We’ve just completed (I think) a modification/improvement to the generic hot
melt glue gun that enables it to crank out many different shapes of wax goodies.
Number limited by your imagination.
Dave
At 02:59 AM 11/7/96 +0000, you wrote:
Hi Rick,
On 11/6 you said:
I've noticed several people's comments about the need for a cheapwax pen. I have specs for two easy-to-make types I’d be happy to share if
there’s enough interest. Just let me know.
If it isn’t to big a hassel, how about putting it here?
Hi Dave.
You're the only Orchidean expressing interest at this point, so I'll write
this simple “wax pen” up and see if there’s interest in the other one (which
might provide a dual power source for itself and your famous wax extrusion
gun – we’ll see).
Anyhow, this is a simple little mechanism that's easy to make and is very
helpful on my wax bench. It certainly doesn’t replace a $300 wax pen but I
use it a lot for quickly sizing wax ring shanks, building up wax prongs,
decorating, texturing, etc. It’s designed for use with an alcohol lamp or
Bunsen burner, and is great for people just getting into wax work.
Disclaimer: this is a professional forum and everyone should know this,
but in case someone doesn’t, hot wax is dangerous! It can ignite if
overheated and if spilled can cause fires or serious burns. Always wear old
and protective clothing when working with hot wax because it can destroy
fabrics. Don’t breathe fumes – work in well-ventilated areas. Have I left
anything out? Be Careful! Don’t burn your precious pinkies!
Basic materials are a discarded ball-point pen, a melon-baller (yeah, I
know – grin and deal with it!), the ability (and equipment) to
silver-solder, a little piece of scrap silver sheet, medium and EZ solder,
some means of drilling a small hole and about half an hour.
Melon-ballers are available in culinary shops and many supermarkets,
department stores, etc. They’re designed to scoop out little decorative
balls of melon, so they have holes in the bottom of the bowls to let juices
escape. They come in lots of shapes and sizes so pick one that feels good
in your hand or that can be modified to do so, and that has a bowl large
enough to handle the amount of wax you’ll be using.
The first job is to plug the hole. Cut a piece of thin-gauge sheet silver
with shears or saw into a circle about twice the diameter of the hole in the
melon-baller. I dapped mine to shape by finding a ball-peen hammer with a
peening end small enough to fit into the bowl. I placed the silver circle
inside the bowl over the hole, carefully positioned the hammer over it and
whacked the whole arrangement against my bench top . Voila, a little piece
of domed silver ready to solder into place.
Once the hole is plugged with the silver patch, it's time to sacrifice a
pen. The easiest kind to work with are the sorts with replaceable
cartridges. Remove the cartridge and use a jeweler’s saw to cut about 10
mm. off the end with the ball point. (There are several different types;
make sure the cylinder is the same width along the 10 mm length except for
the tip, and that it’s made of brass or a similar metal – not plastic!)
Retain the sawed-off tip and discard everything else.
This procedure is potentially messy, so be prepared to deal with the ink.
Clean the sawed-off section carefully because it must be soldered. After
cleaning with solvent, dry and use a fine file or emery paper to clean the
area near the saw marks down to bright metal. File the sawed end flat, then
ream out the inside very slightly with a bud bur held in the fingers. Make
sure no metal filings are left inside the tube. Then use a long pin or
whatever will work to force the ball out of the end of the cylinder. Be
careful not to distort the shape of the pen tip too much, as the original
shape helps control the eventual wax flow.
If you're right-handed, you'll want to drill a hole the same diameter as
the pen tip cylinder on the left-hand side near the bottom of the
melon-baller bowl as it’s held in your hand (if you’re left-handed, do the
opposite). Before drilling the hole, hold the pen tip section to the area
and be sure it’s long enough to extend at least to the top edge of the bowl
as you look down on the whole arrangement. Remember, in use the entire bowl
will be hot, so you want the tip to be long enough to reach the work area
without having to worry about melting everything you’ve already done by
inadvertently brushing it with the bowl.
Okay, if you drilled the hole the right size you should be able to
“jam-fit” the sawed end of the pen tip into it for adjustment and soldering.
It should slope downward at an angle of no more than about 10 degrees when
the bowl to is held horizontally so that hot wax doesn’t leak out
prematurely. Solder it in place with EZ solder, use a small bur or grinder
in a flex shaft to make sure there are no projections inside the bowl.
Clean up, and you’re in business.
Try lots of different kinds of waxes at different temperatures and
experiment on a sheet of wax building up prongs, making designs or??? One
of my favorite waxes is a dental wax called “Perfect-Wax,” but I’ve also had
great results with many other types, including waxes with some plastic
content designed for injecting rubber molds. Put a small amount of wax in
the bottom of the bowl, heat gently over an open flame (avoid any flame that
generates carbon, like wax candles) and DON’T OVERHEAT!!
Wax shouldn't flow from the orifice until it makes slight contact with the
work surface. If it does, the wax is either too hot or the tip angle wrong,
allowing gravity to force it out. With practice all sorts of effects are
possible. If you come up with new ideas, let me know! Until then, wax wild.
Rick Martin
Martin Designs
Thanks, Rick!
I didn’t reply that I was interested, even though I was! I appreciate
your effort in writing up your “invention.” I’ll mull over it tonight
and let you know if I have any questions!
Dave Sebaste
At 08:19 PM 11/7/96 +0000, you wrote:
At 02:59 AM 11/7/96 +0000, you wrote:
Hi Rick,
On 11/6 you said:
I've noticed several people's comments about the need for a cheapwax pen. I have specs for two easy-to-make types I’d be happy to share if
there’s enough interest. Just let me know.
If it isn’t to big a hassel, how about putting it here?
Hi Dave.
You’re the only Orchidean expressing interest at this point, so I’ll write
this simple “wax pen” up and see if there’s interest in the other one (which
might provide a dual power source for itself and your famous wax extrusion
gun – we’ll see).
(big snip of specs)
Rick,
Sorry about that; I, too, am interested and am going to try this one.
Sounds simple enough (remind me I said that when I cry for help) and will
try to do it this weekend if the show I’ve got leaves me enough time.
Susan
C Gems
Original Designs and Period Jewelry
cgems@pipeline.com
Hi Rick,
On 11/6 you said:
I've noticed several people's comments about the need for a cheapwax pen. I have specs for two easy-to-make types I’d be happy to share if
there’s enough interest. Just let me know.
Rick,
Sorry about that; I, too, am interested and am going to try this one.
Sounds simple enough (remind me I said that when I cry for help) and will
try to do it this weekend if the show I’ve got leaves me enough time.
Susan
C Gems
Original Designs and Period Jewelry
cgems@pipeline.com
Hi, Susan
I’ll try to get the other wax gun written up today or over the weekend and
will post it ASAP. Meanwhile, I have a question about your wax extrusion
gun. (In trying to organize my mailbox this week I seem to have lost the
letter from you I have in mind here). You mentioned at some point that your
wax (glue) gun is blue and orange and that you’re using standard-size Matt
wax pellets in it.
At the hardware store yesterday I found a (Black & Decker, I believe) glue
gun in the colors you describe. It was shrink-wrapped so I couldn’t measure
the glue-stick opening but the specs on the glue-stick box next to it showed
their measurements as 4" x .045". I measured a Matt wax pellet’s diameter
and it’s exactly half an inch in diameter.
Am I describing the gun you have? Is there enough extra room in the glue
chamber to accept the Matt pellets easily? If so, it’s on to the kitchen
shop and Home Depot!
Thanks,
Rick Martin
MARTIN DESIGNS
At 04:22 PM 11/8/96 +0000, you wrote:
Hi, Susan
I’ll try to get the other wax gun written up today or over the weekend and
will post it ASAP. Meanwhile, I have a question about your wax extrusion
gun. (In trying to organize my mailbox this week I seem to have lost the
letter from you I have in mind here). You mentioned at some point that your
wax (glue) gun is blue and orange and that you’re using standard-size Matt
wax pellets in it.
At the hardware store yesterday I found a (Black & Decker, I believe) glue
gun in the colors you describe. It was shrink-wrapped so I couldn’t measure
the glue-stick opening but the specs on the glue-stick box next to it showed
their measurements as 4" x .045". I measured a Matt wax pellet’s diameter
and it’s exactly half an inch in diameter.
Am I describing the gun you have? Is there enough extra room in the glue
chamber to accept the Matt pellets easily? If so, it’s on to the kitchen
shop and Home Depot!
Thanks,
Rick Martin
MARTIN DESIGNS
Rick,
Yeah, that be the beastie and the pellet’s work fine in mine. Have to work
on adjusting the rheostat just right for each type but aside from the minor
deviations in working temperatures, I’ve had no problems. Got a bunch of
the pellets from someone going out of business and just kept holding onto
them “in case” (you know, the same logic that makes you buy a gazillion
stones at a show because you “might” need them?). BTW, the green does super
stuff on water.
Susan
C Gems
Original Designs and Period Jewelry
cgems@pipeline.com
Hi, Susan
I’ll try to get the other wax gun written up today or over the weekend and
will post it ASAP. Meanwhile, I have a question about your wax extrusion
gun.
(snip)
Rick Martin
MARTIN DESIGNS
Rick,
Yeah, that be the beastie and the pellet’s work fine in mine. Have to work
on adjusting the rheostat just right for each type but aside from the minor
deviations in working temperatures, I’ve had no problems. Got a bunch of
the pellets from someone going out of business and just kept holding onto
them “in case” (you know, the same logic that makes you buy a gazillion
stones at a show because you “might” need them?). BTW, the green does super
stuff on water.
Susan
Thanks, Susan. I’m in business. I’ve owned a Matt gun for 7-8 years or so
and find it indispensable for many jobs. I paid too much for it originally
and when I dropped it and broke it in the middle of a rush job several
months ago I called a local supply firm and ordered one. Everything was
fine until they read the price back to me – it blew my fuse. The too-high
price I’d paid originally had more than doubled! I canceled the order. I
checked out glue guns at the time but couldn’t find one that would accept
the Matt wax – which is the only justification I can find for buying the
original since it’s formulated with special properties for different kinds
of work. (Try making threads for weaving with the red wax, for instance, or
air forms.) Still, unlike Gillette which practically gives razors away and
makes its money on the mass sale of replacement blades, Mattiellos’s
philosophy is apparently to let no profit opportunity go unexploited. I’ll
continue buying his wax, however.
BTW, the wax gun I’m writing up may possibly solve the problem of finding a
desirable working heat range for both the wax pen and the wax gun. It
incorporates a rheostat similar to the one described the one used for your
famous gun but is wired so that current passes thru a night lite which gives
a visual indication of the heat range. Sort’ve like chicken soup for a cold
– it can’t hurt!
Rick
At 10:30 PM 11/8/96 +0000, you wrote:
Thanks, Susan. I’m in business. I’ve owned a Matt gun for 7-8 years or so
and find it indispensable for many jobs. I paid too much for it originally
and when I dropped it and broke it in the middle of a rush job several
months ago I called a local supply firm and ordered one. Everything was
fine until they read the price back to me – it blew my fuse. The too-high
price I’d paid originally had more than doubled! I canceled the order. I
checked out glue guns at the time but couldn’t find one that would accept
the Matt wax – which is the only justification I can find for buying the
original since it’s formulated with special properties for different kinds
of work. (Try making threads for weaving with the red wax, for instance, or
air forms.) Still, unlike Gillette which practically gives razors away and
makes its money on the mass sale of replacement blades, Mattiellos’s
philosophy is apparently to let no profit opportunity go unexploited. I’ll
continue buying his wax, however.
BTW, the wax gun I’m writing up may possibly solve the problem of finding a
desirable working heat range for both the wax pen and the wax gun. It
incorporates a rheostat similar to the one described the one used for your
famous gun but is wired so that current passes thru a night lite which gives
a visual indication of the heat range. Sort’ve like chicken soup for a cold
– it can’t hurt!
Rick
Rick,
Neat idea with the night light; I’ll be interested in seeing the specs.
Could be really fantastic if we could get the pen and gun working off the
same system. Gads, we could go into production and STILL charge tons less
than the Matt model. I absolutely refused to pay their prices, too; I just
kept looking for someone selling one used but no luck. I know what you mean
about the weaving; I recently did a set of Celtic knots on commission and
drove myself totally crazy trying to do it with wire or forming it from flat
sheet. Managed it but swore I’d never do it again if I had to wing it.
Like I can’t find enough to drive myself over the edge with…
Susan
C Gems
Original Designs and Period Jewelry
cgems@pipeline.com
Rick,
If I may,… Most of the ‘’‘Mini Glue Guns’’’ in HD, Walmart, … and
generally around can best be descripbed as fitting in the your hand. That
is,… spread you hand… and the nozzle to handle end will 'almost or will
fit in the space…
Currently, large guns(larger than above) as well as the small guns(above)
will accept ‘slub’ or pellet glue segments about 1 and 1/2 inches long…
HOWEVER… THE SMALL GUN WILL ONLY ACCEPT SLUGS, SEGMENTS OF 8 MM in
diameter… These are generlly available from catalog suppliers and
for me… locally… as of today… at price of $ .06 cents for a Green 8/10
6mm piece… Red, sticky or red sprue … not good!!!
I intend to complete the story on Miss Susan’s, SDJS Wax Gun, 'DE TIP’
feature tomorrow as I have spent … lots of time trying to implement the
feature myself… for 'DA big gun and da little gun…
With Miss Susan’s approval … goes without saying…
Jim
At 01:55 PM 11/8/96 -0500, you wrote:
If your gun is simular to the SDJS gun then the rehostat is in series with
the outlet… the lite … no biggie but added resistance, would reduce the
heat range of the unit a little … Come in Dave A!..
Jim
At 10:30 PM 11/8/96 +0000, you wrote:
At 12:08 AM 11/9/96 -0500, you wrote:
Rick,
If I may,… Most of the ‘’‘Mini Glue Guns’‘’ in HD, Walmart, … and
generally around can best be descripbed as fitting in the your hand. That
is,… spread you hand… and the nozzle to handle end will 'almost or will
fit in the space…
Currently, large guns(larger than above) as well as the small guns(above)
will accept ‘slub’ or pellet glue segments about 1 and 1/2 inches long…
HOWEVER… THE SMALL GUN WILL ONLY ACCEPT SLUGS, SEGMENTS OF 8 MM in
diameter… These are generlly available from catalog suppliers and
for me… locally… as of today… at price of $ .06 cents for a Green 8/10
6mm piece… Red, sticky or red sprue … not good!!!
I intend to complete the story on Miss Susan’s, SDJS Wax Gun, ‘DE TIP’
feature tomorrow as I have spent … lots of time trying to implement the
feature myself… for 'DA big gun and da little gun…
With Miss Susan’s approval … goes without saying…
Jim
Jim,
With all the guns available, I guess a problem with the size standard was
inevitable. I think of the small guns as the “mini” guns they sell at craft
shops; you know, the ones that are only about 4" total. Good idea to post
the specs on the size of the pellets each accepts; may decide some on which
gun to use.
Go right ahead and print; I hadn’t heard anything from you and was beginning
to be concerned. Obviously, all did not go well and what I thought
would be a quick and dirty fix turned into just a dirty one…
Susan
C Gems
Original Designs and Period Jewelry
cgems@pipeline.com
Hi Gang,
Noticed several msgs about the hotmelt glue gun adapted to melt wax.
FWIW
There are 3 different sizes of glue guns that I’ve been able to find. The large
(original) usually available in Home Depot & other building supply stores (about
$15-20). A mini size, about 4x 4", available at Wal*Mart, craft & hardware
stores (about $2.50-4).
There’s also a middle size, don’t have, didn’t buy or measure it, don’t want .
The large & medium gun both use 1/2" diameter sticks. The minis come in 2
flavors, 1 uses 5/16" round sticks & the other uses an oval stick.
The pastry tips suggested by Susan (at least the ones I saw) were made in Korea.
After operating on one it appears they are nickel plated brass.
The tips on the large guns are removable/replaceable. If any of you want to
experiment making a different tip retainer, the threads on the big gun tip are
7/16"-20. The tip on the mini is part of the heating unit, so it’s not
removable.
The tip temperature on most guns gets up to 380F.
If you folks can wait a little, I’m working on a better tip retainer than the
wire one I describe a few days ago. I’ll post it here when it’s done.
New subject: Indicator for dimmer switch.
Saw Rick’s comment about a light to indicate voltage level. Great idea! It’s
note a problem to incorporate a light into the unit.
Have to see what’s generally available so all you guys/gals can get it.
Dave
Hi Gang,
I was going to get into the details of the rheostat for the wax pen next
week, but it seems you guys can’t wait. Jim Chambers nailed it in an
earlier message: just wire the dimmer switch in series (not parallel) with
a double 3-prong electrical outlet inside a plastic switch box (with
suitable face plate). Then round up a small 4-watt night light with a clear
bulb (to make seeing the filament easier) and plug it into the outlet.
Experience will quickly tell you the approximate heat of the tool you’re
using just by judging the brightness of the filament.
As for the wax pen itself, it’s designed for texturing and decorating wax,
not extruding it, and a description requires more time than I have right now
– have to cut some extraordinary lapis and make some jewelry! But I’ll get
to it early in the week.
Anyhow, the rheostat set-up will probably work as a temperature indicator
for the pen and the extrusion wax/glue gun unless somebody wants to use both
simultaneously for some strange reason. If so, just get a bigger switch box
and wire in another outlet.
BTW, thanks, Dave, for the info on wax pen and glue pellet sizes. In
re-casting wax pellets for the smaller guns, what are the characteristics of
the waxes you-all are using? Is it Matt wax? Ferris? Other types?
Chow,
Rick Martin
MARTIN DESIGNS
I’m looking forward to hearing about the outcome of this project, too! I’ve
never had the pleasure of working with a wax gun, or pen. I’ve always had to
build up in the tedious, old spatula and alcohol lamp method.
I recently acquired a Matt trimmer, used, for a reasonable price… 'cuz it
was used. I haven’t had a chance to play with it yet, as I’m currently out of
my casting phase. I’m fabricating everything now-a-days, but will certainly
get around to playing with wax before too long.
Still, I hafta agree, the going price for Matt tools seems to be a premium for
the value received… especially for the amateur or semi-professional.
C-Ya,
Dave Sebaste
Sebaste Studio
Charlotte, NCFrom: owner-orchid@proteus.imagiware.com on behalf of Susan Chenoweth
Sent: Friday, November 08, 1996 6:48 PM
To: orchid@ganoksin.com
Subject: Re: Wax Pen Specs
At 10:30 PM 11/8/96 +0000, you wrote:
Thanks, Susan. I’m in business. I’ve owned a Matt gun for 7-8 years or so
and find it indispensable for many jobs. I paid too much for it originally
and when I dropped it and broke it in the middle of a rush job several
months ago I called a local supply firm and ordered one. Everything was
fine until they read the price back to me – it blew my fuse. The too-high
price I’d paid originally had more than doubled! I canceled the order. I
checked out glue guns at the time but couldn’t find one that would accept
the Matt wax – which is the only justification I can find for buying the
original since it’s formulated with special properties for different kinds
of work. (Try making threads for weaving with the red wax, for instance, or
air forms.) Still, unlike Gillette which practically gives razors away and
makes its money on the mass sale of replacement blades, Mattiellos’s
philosophy is apparently to let no profit opportunity go unexploited. I’ll
continue buying his wax, however.
BTW, the wax gun I’m writing up may possibly solve the problem of finding a
desirable working heat range for both the wax pen and the wax gun. It
incorporates a rheostat similar to the one described the one used for your
famous gun but is wired so that current passes thru a night lite which gives
a visual indication of the heat range. Sort’ve like chicken soup for a cold
– it can’t hurt!
Rick
Rick,
Neat idea with the night light; I’ll be interested in seeing the specs.
Could be really fantastic if we could get the pen and gun working off the
same system. Gads, we could go into production and STILL charge tons less
than the Matt model. I absolutely refused to pay their prices, too; I just
kept looking for someone selling one used but no luck. I know what you mean
about the weaving; I recently did a set of Celtic knots on commission and
drove myself totally crazy trying to do it with wire or forming it from flat
sheet. Managed it but swore I’d never do it again if I had to wing it.
Like I can’t find enough to drive myself over the edge with…
Susan
C Gems
Original Designs and Period Jewelry
cgems@pipeline.com
procedures
Later… After I read my E mail… been at the Gun option …ALL WEEK-END!!
Jim
At 12:52 AM 11/9/96 -0500, you wrote:
If your gun is simular to the SDJS gun then the rehostat is in series with
the outlet… the lite … no biggie but added resistance, would reduce the
heat range of the unit a little … Come in Dave A!..
Jim
At 10:30 PM 11/8/96 +0000, you wrote:
Hi, Susan
I’ll try to get the other wax gun written up today or over the weekend and
will post it ASAP. Meanwhile, I have a question about your wax extrusion
gun.
(snip)
Rick Martin
MARTIN DESIGNS
Rick,
Yeah, that be the beastie and the pellet’s work fine in mine. Have to work
on adjusting the rheostat just right for each type but aside from the minor
deviations in working temperatures, I’ve had no problems. Got a bunch of
the pellets from someone going out of business and just kept holding onto
them “in case” (you know, the same logic that makes you buy a gazillion
stones at a show because you “might” need them?). BTW, the green does super
stuff on water.
Susan
Thanks, Susan. I’m in business. I’ve owned a Matt gun for 7-8 years or so
and find it indispensable for many jobs. I paid too much for it originally
and when I dropped it and broke it in the middle of a rush job several
months ago I called a local supply firm and ordered one. Everything was
fine until they read the price back to me – it blew my fuse. The too-high
price I’d paid originally had more than doubled! I canceled the order. I
checked out glue guns at the time but couldn’t find one that would accept
the Matt wax – which is the only justification I can find for buying the
original since it’s formulated with special properties for different kinds
of work. (Try making threads for weaving with the red wax, for instance, or
air forms.) Still, unlike Gillette which practically gives razors away and
makes its money on the mass sale of replacement blades, Mattiellos’s
philosophy is apparently to let no profit opportunity go unexploited. I’ll
continue buying his wax, however.
BTW, the wax gun I’m writing up may possibly solve the problem of finding a
desirable working heat range for both the wax pen and the wax gun. It
incorporates a rheostat similar to the one described the one used for your
famous gun but is wired so that current passes thru a night lite which gives
a visual indication of the heat range. Sort’ve like chicken soup for a cold
– it can’t hurt!
Rick
procedures
Susan,
HUH!!!.. Did your solder joint hold… in local discussion with dudes in
plumbing , hobby, host etc, etc shops the question was …AND STILL IS …
CAN YOU SOLDER TO THE SMALL GUN TIP???..
I will try tomorrow, if it doesnot work then I’ll try the poxy… then
Dave S’s solution… I did find the right fitting for the small gun… (SEE
note)
Jim
At 09:53 AM 11/9/96 -0500, you wrote:
At 09:54 PM 11/10/96 -0500, you wrote:
Susan,
HUH!!!.. Did your solder joint hold… in local discussion with dudes in
plumbing , hobby, host etc, etc shops the question was …AND STILL IS …
CAN YOU SOLDER TO THE SMALL GUN TIP???..
I will try tomorrow, if it doesnot work then I’ll try the poxy… then
Dave S’s solution… I did find the right fitting for the small gun… (SEE
note)
Jim
Jim,
It’s still going strong; due to a hectic weekend, I haven’t accomplished
much work with it (or much else, either) the past 3 days but so far, it’s
doing OK. I used an old-fashioned soldering gun and plumbing solder to do
the trick; had to be a bit careful not to get on the plastic casing of the
gun but aside from that, no problems. Saw your post on the alternative
fittings; hope they work. Am also going to do a medium gun using Dave A.'s
retainer…first I ain’t got any gun, now I’m gonna have 2! Sorta like metal
stock and stones; whoever dies with the most, wins.
Susan
C Gems
Original Designs and Period Jewelry
cgems@pipeline.com
I like idea of a screw on replacement end… per DAVE’s note … think his
gun came from Sears… Will try to solder small gun first then look at the
Sears gun…
Jim
At 11:04 PM 11/10/96 -0500, you wrote:
I really like the night light idea for a voltage level indicator
going to do it myself…
Haven’t tried to do the DE TIP yet!!!
Jim
At 01:49 AM 11/10/96 +0000, you wrote:
Hi Gang,
I was going to get into the details of the rheostat for the wax pen next
week, but it seems you guys can’t wait. Jim Chambers nailed it in an
earlier message: just wire the dimmer switch in series (not parallel) with
a double 3-prong electrical outlet inside a plastic switch box (with
suitable face plate). Then round up a small 4-watt night light with a clear
bulb (to make seeing the filament easier) and plug it into the outlet.
Experience will quickly tell you the approximate heat of the tool you’re
using just by judging the brightness of the filament.
As for the wax pen itself, it’s designed for texturing and decorating wax,
not extruding it, and a description requires more time than I have right now
– have to cut some extraordinary lapis and make some jewelry! But I’ll get
to it early in the week.
Anyhow, the rheostat set-up will probably work as a temperature indicator
for the pen and the extrusion wax/glue gun unless somebody wants to use both
simultaneously for some strange reason. If so, just get a bigger switch box
and wire in another outlet.
BTW, thanks, Dave, for the info on wax pen and glue pellet sizes. In
re-casting wax pellets for the smaller guns, what are the characteristics of
the waxes you-all are using? Is it Matt wax? Ferris? Other types?
Chow,
Rick Martin
MARTIN DESIGNS
Noticed several msgs about the hotmelt glue gun adapted to melt wax.
New subject: Indicator for dimmer switch.
Saw Rick’s comment about a light to indicate voltage level. Great idea! It’s
note a problem to incorporate a light into the unit.
Have to see what’s generally available so all you guys/gals can get it.
Dave
procedures