Wax, cast - book or class

If you ask your caster to use "no shrink pink" mold rubber there
should be no reduction from the original.

One will still have shrinkage due to finishing.

Bruce D. Holmgrain
e-mail: @Bruce_Holmgrain
http:\www.knight-hub.com\manmtndense\bhh3.htm
snail mail: pob 7972, McLean, VA 22106-7972
phone:: 703-593-4652

Mike-Thanks for your response. I do try to hollow out the backs
as much as possible. However, since I make insects, things like
flying beetles, I would like to get the wings as thin as
possible. I usually use a a piece of sheet wax for the base and
then put the details(wing veins etc) on with wax wires. I would
like to use 22 ga sheet wax for the base of the wings, but that
always seems to be too thin. I keep wondering if there is any
other way to approach it. Sandra/ElegantBee

Sandra,

Can the wings be cast separately, then you assemble? How about
gossamer wire filligree wings? I haven’t done this sort of thing
so this is probably worth less then the nornal two pennies.
(wish we had half-pennies here for these situations 8^) )

Sandra,

One trick I learned for getting models as light as possible is
to check the thickness of areas with a milimeter gauge with
pincer-style jaws. For an example of some, look in a Gesswein or
Rio Grande catalog under Boley-style Sliding Gauge and
Pocket/Combination Degree Gauge. Using either of these tools you
can go over every part of your model and see where it is too
thin and where can be carved away at or hollowed out. For white
metals, the thinnest areas should be no less than 1.25 mm, or it
will not cast well. I’m not sure what the bare minimum you could
get away with would be for gold/silver (I tend to do pieces on
the heavier side, so I haven’t gone as thin as I could). I would
imagine it could be as thin as .5 mm. Anyone out there know?
Also, I file the tips of the gauge to be thinner so I could fit
into tighter areas (be sure not to file down the inside of the
jaws and screw up the accuracy). You’d be surprised how much
lighter a piece could be after you measure and carve away the
excess.

Jill
@jandr
http://members.tripod.com/~jilk

Hi Sandra

 My pieces are fairly large(often 3 to four inches) and very
complex, and the only problem I'm having is that I can't get
them to be as fine as I would like. 

We have had similar problems. Without knowing what your pieces
are like it is a little difficult to suggest a solution. We
carve some of our work but mostly build up and then carve.
Perhaps your buildup wax is the problem, or the type of sheet
wax, and/or the casting method. We have had to experiment with
these and other factors and have found some solutions.

Some of our pieces that are done started with thin gauges of
sheet wax (22-26), come out much better if I only vacuum the
investment in the mixing bowl and skip the vacuum once the
investment is poured into the flask. The thinner gauges of sheet
seems to breakdown in the vacuum. I have no problems with the
thicker gauges and have a great success rate now with the
thinner gauges.

For some designs, we have also changed to different waxes. Do
you use pink or green sheet wax? What type of build up waxes are
you using?

If others haven’t already answered you questions, perhaps you
could be more specific as to the type of pieces you are making or
waxes you are using and we could be of more help.

Let us know how you do and goodluck.

Charlene
@Chardens

True to a point.  There is the shrink of the wax and the
shrink of the metal 

What temperature a you vulcanizing your no-shrink-pink at? I am
having some mixed results. Mark P.

Please note: "Jewelrymaker@aol.com is really @ElegantBee
This is the second time it’s happened. I’m not sure why but am I
doing something wrong? Please correct. Thanks
Sandra/@ElegantBee

Jill-Thanks so much. I will try it with my next model. I’m
also beginning to wonder if I need to find someone to do the
casting that has more experience will small pieces. Can anyone
recommend someone really reliable who is willing to work together
and make suggestions? Sandra

True to a point.  There is the shrink of the wax and the
shrink of the metal 
   What temperature a you vulcanizing your no-shrink-pink at?
I am having some mixed results. Mark P.

hi mark, it’s imperitive (according to castaldo) that the
vulcanizer be at exact temps on both(!) plates. regular
vulcanizers with one rheostat can have huge differentiation of
heat. 50 degrees is not uncommon. i was faced with buyin a new
vulcanizer with double rheostats with thermometers or throwing
the no shrink pink out. well, i’ve had the no shrink for about
four years, i just can’t throw it away even though it’s gone bad
three years ago.

best regards,
geo fox