Voiding on setting information

Who wants to get stuck with responsibility for some Amateur so
called jewelers breaking of an expensive stone? Besides have you 
ever tried to pry a setters secrets from him? 

Think I’ll step out from behind my curtain on this one… I was
taught setting techniques from several people, and worked out
solutions to difficult problems on my own, by doing research in
libraries or by observing the finished or failed work of others.
Most of the needed on setting practises is available in
the repair department. Learning what works often is a process of
eliminating what doesn’t.

I’m not exactly clear on what issues Ringman has with the
stonesetters, but all of the ones I have known would share knowledge
and “secrets” with me because I was genuinely interested in doing
good work, and by the time I would be good enough to “put them out
of a job”, they would already be dead from overwork and stress, or
just plain old age.

Like my fellow Canadian, Gerry, I would love to share “secrets” of
stone setting before I shed my mortal coil. Anyone who is crazy
enough to enter this kind of work environment needs a good mentor as
well as a psychiatrist. The money isn’t great, the respect from most
retailers is abysmal, but the satisfaction of doing a great job and
the knowledge that you have made the end-user really, really happy
is worth the effort and some of the pain.

Many retailers who purchase from manufacturers could not tell the
difference between good quality settings and poor ones. This has
fueled the surge in offshore merchandise, where the labour is so low
that the failure rate of settings is offset by the reduced cost of
the people doing the work. The settings that make it to the showcase
can fail soon after being worn, and, hence…“jewellery is a
freakin’ waste o’ money, honey…” customer dissatisfaction 3D
reduced sales.

Yes, good setting work is a rare thing, but it’s also a “care”
thing. If retailers don’t care, then they deserve the returns and
the angry customers. If they realize that good stonesetting is an
integral part of the desireablity of jewellery, they will place more
of an emphasis on finding, hiring, contracting with, or assisting in
the training of skilled setters…or it’s `curtains’ for them.


Furthermore on this topic Some, and I mean some of my very own
clients are not in the “caring” business. Although, all they want is
to have the end result “bright & shiny” and being able to get it out
into the masses, poste haste! well when I get one of these 180 stoned
pave’ pendants or 500 stoned necklaces/bracelets I do what is most
needed, and that is to forgo many of this wholesalers’ request. Yes,
I will make it “bright & shiny”, but also putting “care” into it.
Careful setting/designing and as if it was my own ! I look at one of
these marvellous items and stand back and think would I wear this? did
I put extra care into it? is part of my soul in it, also? would the
wearer be proud of wearing it? if many of these questions are in the
affirmative, I’ve done what is asked of my proffession. I must be
the representative of this small and integral group of individuals
who create things of beauty from a raw casting. This one particular
fellow said to me last week, his past setter just made money and he
is no more doing his work…until this “angel” dropped by and is
doing his setting! he meant me! Care, Honesty, Delivering on time,
Speed of service, and above all Price, none of these features should
be deleted…in-between all of this, I write and teach for Orchid and
my school students…:>) whew! My mentor-teacher came into my office
last Thursday, he said to me that he knew way back I was meant to be
a maven in pave’ and bead-setting! Many of the trades’ setters can do
many things, but how many can do jobs that entail superior dexterity
in this setting of pave and have the intuition of understanding what
will happen and might happen if something goes wrong. As David Keeling
just said he learns from others mistakes, very true in this
statement. I always say to my many students, I will do my best to
teach you all the little nuances of setting. But one thing I can
never teach you is experience. Experience is the acquired teacher.
But I do try and teach “care” and “being proud of a job well done”!..gerry!