Using Split LapPolisher

Jewelry Discussion
21 
When I'm using it I can barely see an outline of the piece I'm
working on. Any suggestions, different light maybe or different
light position?

You’ll never see all that well through those tiny spinning slits. You
don’t need to. All you need to see is the surface itself which you’re
polishing, to be sure you’re lapping in the right plane and to be
able to see how much you’re cutting off that surface. Use a good
bright lightbulb (I use standard 100 watt bulbs, but have decent air
flow in the area, so it doesn’t get too hot. Depending on your setup
and preferences, you might need smaller, or even higher wattage. Now,
with the lap not operating, position one of the slits at the bottom
of the laps rotational path, the area where you work. Hold a mirror
or bright shiny metal surface in contact with the lap under the slit.
Position the lamp somewhere in line with the slit, with your head in
it’s normal or most comfortable working position, so that you see a
reflection of the light bulb itself in the visible small bit of that
shiny metal surface. When you’re working, you’re depending on the
fact that the surface being lapped is bright enough and reflective
enough to directly reflect that light from the bulb back to your eye.
If the bulb is not postioned for that direct bright reflection,
you’ll see almost nothing. The lamp can be positioned quite close to
the top rotating surface of the lap, since you’re working on the
underside. For me, it’s barely below the center spindle of the
machine most of the time. Your working postion will determine what’s
best for you. Also, note that since the lap is thinnest near the
edges, more light gets in there (light can get to the metal surface
over a wider angle), so you may get a better visibility if you work
just near the outside perimeter of the lap.

Peter

22

Put black paint on top of Split Lap Wheel.

23

Gerald,

One more dumb question and I promise I'll leave this subject
alone. I just rec'd my lap and I think I'm doing something wrong as
I can't see all that well thru it. When I'm using it I can barely
see an outline of the piece I'm working on.

My suggestion would be to use the beveled side on the bottom. Put the
light pretty much in line with the slots. Line the work up so that
you get a bright reflection. When the lap is in motion, it will shade
the bright light considerably. Raise you work to the lap and keep it
in motion. The lap will cut quiclky. Takes some getting used to. You
may find that there is a very tight fit if you are trying to use an
Optivisor. Remember to keep it in motion. It is always a lot easier
to lap some required metal away than to lap it back on.

Bruce D. Holmgrain
JA Certified Master Benchjeweler
goldwerx.us

24

Regular cheap 60 watt incandescent Luxo desk lights sort of over the
spindle. As close as possible without burning off my nose, maybe 3"
above the lap.

Don’t expect a high definition wide screen view, but you sure can
see more than trying to look through a solid lap. Use care, they
aren’t quite as nasty as they seem but very close if you don’t think.
Very useful machines, I’ve seen pros do some amazing work with them;
even I can get some good results as only an infrequent user.

Slightly scary tool but then so are torches. Both are very fun.

Jeff

25 
If the bulb is not postioned for that direct bright reflection,
you'll see almost nothing.

I put the light where I periodically get a burned forehead if I’m
not careful. Just a hot touch, that is. Once you find the spot
that’s good for how you work, you’ll have it, but you should be able
to see the work pretty well, not just some shadowy thing.