Unsoldered jump rings unprofessional?

Hello,

I am surrounded by chain makers and I personally know of the best
hand made chain makers whose techniques make a joke of anything that
I have comeacross anywhere. The best one I know spent a life time
making chains and creating gigs (Nigel in the UK is the man in
question). To add, I havemade hundreds of chains by hand and was
lucky to have worked next to a guy who would solder curb chain
necklaces weighing 2 grams and he would dometers a day. The guys who
cast everything and deal with low carat jewellery and rely on ‘it
looking good for the price’ always solder everything. They have no
choice because the others do, but others will skip milesof quality
control and overkill the effort on forcing themselves to solder
everything. Nigel (who won’t read this) can solder any link that any
hack can, but in chain making he doesn’t have to because for him it
depends on the design, and if some designs can’t be soldered and they
work well then it is not considered a fault. If you can imagine, some
of his more intricate designs can be done by machine and the joins
are soldered in a kiln @ meters per the hour - if you know how,
otherwise they can’t. His product is the real deal. If he does have
to solder, he always has a perfect clean joins and the link will be
turned by hand or on a gig. The links are always functionally
unblemished. The metal is rolled from a rod and drawn to whatever
shape he needs. I think if someone at this leveldoesn’t ‘have’ to
solder everything then he is right and the people who can’t stomach
the thought of leaving a link unsoldered are wrong. That is why I
don’t agree that it is any kind of a rule; that open jump rings are
somehow a sign of cheapness.

I answered quickly because when I read the question, I talked about
the same thing that day. I was in the workshop of a chain maker and
I mentioned that that I don’t know why he should bother soldering
some jump rings on the chains he was making. It was a situation where
he had the chains ready for their parrot clasps and a box full of
polished jump rings. They were as strong as needed to outlast the
chain, soldered or not. He just said it was expected. Both of us,
and everyone here who has repaired chains has seen unsoldered jump
rings that are worn thin in one area, still with a closed and
unsoldered joint. In that case, it is about expectations because
anybody will be surprised the first time they see that, (andthen
retailers have to convince their customers to ignore some kind of
common sense). I guess I would say that if they are wrought metal and
hard, the shape won’t distort, nor will the wear area gravitate to
the join. Also, if they are annealed they will quickly age harden,
but not beforethey are polished, so there is another good reason that
I like.

Add, making them oval is just good sense. It isn’t always necessary
and not always advisable if you distort the shape; hence you turn
oval links on an oval spit and cut them at the side.

Phillip

In many years, I don’t recall ever receiving a rope or other gold
necklace from a manufacturer which did NOY have an un-soldered jump
ring at the clasp. Didn’t make any difference if it was US or
Italian or offshore assembly, always un-soldered link. On the two
times I inquired of the manufacturers and distributors, I ws told it
was for safety reasons as a result of an old lawsuit…sort of
makes sense, but it sure sounds fishy.

I can easily imagine a child wearing such a piece engaged in play and
getting choked…and here come the attornies… We never soldered
them for that reason, but often replaced the unrelaibel spring-ring
clasps with real clasps for security. If some sort of tragic accident
DID occur, I would not have to explain why I defeated the “safety
mechanism”. You DO have to pay to defend yorself, even when you are
obviously in the right.

If one is worried about loss, well, that’s what insurance is for and
it’s why we would never sell an expensive chain or bracelet with a
cheap clasp.

Wayne

I don’t know of a law but I have seen government policies & workplace
policies that do prohibit the wearing of any item around the neck
unless it has a weak link in it. I have seen this when looking on the
net. I seen some it in education, policing & government policies as
well as work sites with customers with money handling.

I don’t have any links at hand but I’ve seen these in the past 12
months because I was very surprised the first time I saw it. I first
noted it relating to items to hang ID & security cards around the
neck but a couple of policies I saw were written more to cover items
more widely than that. One specified eye glass supports amongst other
items in its list.

I also saw it mentioned at a Safety stand here locally at big Mining
Expo but also relating to the wearing of Security cards &
sunglasses.

I guess it has become an Occupational Health & Safety Issue in some
workplaces since many people now wear their ID & Access cards like
this.

Regards,
Brian.

Sure, to put some flimsy ring on a piece that will pull open
during normal wear is not good craftsmanship, but that does not
mean that properly made and used unsoldered jump rings are not a
professional option. 

I’m a little amazed at the response to this question, and the
breadth of responses. My training (as opposed to my opinion) is that
each and every jump ring must be soldered in every circumstance.
I’ve made chain mail and soldered every single link. So, my take is
that if you want to know the answer to the question in the topic, my
training says, “Yes, unsoldered jumprings are unprofessional.” If
you’re making some piece and you have a reason to need them
unsoldered, well, it’s your work, who’s to say? I’m sorry, though,
saying that it’s too difficult (learn how), or near delicate stones
(learn how) or that it’s because you want the chain to break in that
spot (???) just isn’t going to fly around here…

Could be its different in Australia?!?! Don’t know though, must find
out as a matter of interest!

Cheers Daniel!
:slight_smile: Kimmyg

I think the issue of soldered/unsoldered jump rings is a matter of
personal choice by the manufacturer and the customer. The best
outcome occurs when the seller discusses the merits of either method
with the customer, and discloses the method used on the item being
sold.

Fine chains can be weak enough to break when soldered; heavy chains
can be too strong to break when unsoldered. Some customers will want
the toughest necklaces in the world, and others will want one that
lets go at the slightest danger.

If the item being sold is unsoldered, resist the temptation to
denounce soldered items as dangerous; and if the item is soldered to
denounce unsoldered as unprofessional. There is a place for each. A
professional jeweller will assess each item on it’s own merits and
disclose the observations in an unbiased and honest manner for the
customer to make the final decision. Your choice: sell at all costs,
or cultivate a long-term repeat customer.

It would be nice to allow customers to do a break test on the various
chains! In a similar vien, setting an industrial safety standard will
make break tests mandatory and will only benefit lawyers and safety
inspectors while reducing freedom of choice for manufacturers and
customers.

I was playing with a peice that has abilone shell and pearls
bezeled and epoxied onto 14k gold. Obviously I can't solder the
bale closed that I use on this pendant which caused me to wonder if
it is "unprofessional" to sell high end jewelry with open or
unsoldered rings? 

Is there any reason that you can’t do the bale work BEFORE adding
the shell & pearls? That sounds like it would be my choice.

Lee Cornelius
Vegas Jewelers

Hi

Didn't make any difference if it was US or Italian or offshore
assembly, always un-soldered link. 

If I close a jump ring the correct way, the open seam becomes nearly
invisible to me anyway. Possibly, are you guys worrying a whole lot
over a very small detail? My husband likes to say “follow the 80/20
principle”. In this situation, the principle would dictate that,
since there is not a great increase in perceived value of the work
from the soldering of the jump…leave it an open seam. I know, you
guys are extremely proud of your craftsmanship, as am I, but, I
think when it comes to details like this one, we are venturing into
the land of diminishing returns. I guess you’d have to ask the
customer as he/she is the only one who will know for sure.

Kim Starbard
http://www.kimstarbarddesigns.com

I don't know of a law but I have seen government policies &
workplace policies that do prohibit the wearing of any item around
the neck unless it has a weak link in it. I have seen this when
looking on the net. I seen some it in education, policing &
government policies as well as work sites with customers with money
handling. 

I’ve never seen such a thing - but it’s quite possible that this is
a rather new approach occupationally. Given that the company could
require you to wear an ID badge hanging around your neck, it is
obvious that they would leave themselves an out just on the outside
chance that you managed to fall and entangle your ID card (hanging
around your neck) in such a manner that it could on some outside
chance choke you or snap your neck. Heavens forbid that the company
should be responsible for your death from strangling on an ID badge.

I doubt that this then applies to personal adornment, aka jewelry in
the form of a necklace or bracelet. One would assume that one would
not wear a lovely necklace/bracelet and then go swinging from trees
or otherwise engage in any athletic pursuit where the
necklace/bracelet could get caught somewhere and either choke you or
snap your wrist. I did have a friend who caught her wedding ring
(platinum w/diamonds) on a nail when she reached above her head (on
her tip toes) to grab the extra house key she kept hanging on the
nail along the edge of the carport, had to stretch up on her toes,
lost her balance and managed (no one knows quite how) to hook the
ring on the nail. As she fell, her finger was mangled from being
caught between the nail and her ring. Not a pretty sight, very
painful, and not covered by any insurance, personal, home, industrial
or otherwise. But did require surgery and having the ring cut off her
finger - nothing happened to the platinum ring nor the diamonds
amazingly, other than a scratch or two where the ring caught on the
nail. And no, there was no law that stated that rings must be only
half-soldered at the joint so that should you catch it on something
it would break away, thereby not damaging your hand.

If I make a necklace for a young person, it has been my practice to
use a magnetic clasp, and this seems to work quite well. I tried it
myself, holding the necklace between my two hands and then suddenly
jerking it with my hands and it popped apart every time. For adults,
I am hoping that they do not get themselves into such a predicament
that they would be mangled from their necklace not breaking away. I
do and no doubt will continue to solder all parts of the necklace and
bracelet. Perhaps I should consider adding a caution statement to the
description : WARNING: Do not wear while operating heavy equipment,
taking hallucinogens, attempting to fly from a cliff, or otherwise
engaging in any physical activity that might result in catching the
bracelet/necklace on a hook, branch, nail, board, machine part, or
other physical impediment, that could cause harm to the wearer. :>)
LOL

K

A two year old in our family accidentally hung herself on mini-blinds
in her home. (Not the adjustment cord on the side, but the cord
holding the slats together). She survived, but the brain damage is
very evident when you compare her and her identical twin sister. With
that in mind I would NEVER put a necklace on a child that would not
break with a tug. A soldered JR could be lethal. Our precious little
ones get themselves into places and situations that we as adults are
cautious of. I refuse to solder a JR on a Childs necklace. When I
explain to the customer why, it strikes terror in their hearts and
they always agree.

Richard,

Thank you for sharing that unfortunate experience with the young
child. Certainly, our hearts go out to you. Sobering, indeed. No
soldered rings here, ever.

Wayne

Being a mother of two, I can’t imagine putting a necklace on a
toddler, period. It’s cute, but an obvious no-no in my mind.

V.

I was also wonder why anyone would want to put any jewelry on a
toddler. They chew, they pull, they aren't aware of safety
rules... 

Being a mother of two, I can’t imagine putting a necklace on a
toddler, period. It’s cute, but an obvious no-no in my mind.

Oh please ! ! I have made custom heirloom childrens jewelry for many
many years as a protest to the stamped out crap and,daddy’s little
girl motifs, lack of baby boy jewelry and heart emblazoned…other
crap… available at retail chain jewelers or the walmarts and
kmarts of north america. The majority of pieces i fabricate are
intended for infants and toddlers…

Supervised children don’t eat their jewelry and it shouldn’t be
loose enough for them to get into their mouths, pull over their
heads, or the catch simple enough that an infant can A) figure out
how to disengage it, B) get to the actual mechanism without parental
intervention… Other cultures have no problems with or hesitation
ornamenting their babies and haven’t for thousands of years…it is
simply absurd that a parent isn’t responsible enough to choose wisely
and observe the child carefullly enough to allow jewelry to be worn
at any age. And on the off chance that they do swallow a ring ( left
lying around carelessly by an adult ), its a simple matter of waiting
to retrieve it and lots of fibrous foods meanwhile.

In India,for one example, ankle bracelets are used to help mothers
keep track of toddlers by the sound of the metal hitting things in
their vincity. They also wear nose rings,ear rings, and necklaces,
bracelets and bangles. I can’t recall ever hearing of any incidents
in my years over there in village life, as a montessori teacher, or
as a jeweler in which a child was harmed because of wearing jewelry
that is age appropriate. the beauty of heirloom jewelry is that it
can be kept as is for heirs or resized as the child grows.

R.E.R.

Hello Orchidlanders:

In the past I used to make unsoldered chain in 18 gauge or thicker
because thinner links were to weak, but after all the discussion
about soldering jump rings, I tried to solder some and waste a lot of
time doing it, so I will appreciate your help about hints an tricks
to been more productive and maybe can manufacture thinner chains.

Thanks in advance.
Sincerely
Aurelio

Hi Aurelio,

In the past I used to make unsoldered chain in 18 gauge or thicker
because thinner links were to weak, but after all the discussion
about soldering jump rings, I tried to solder some and waste a lot
of time doing it, so I will appreciate your help about hints an
tricks to been more productive and maybe can manufacture thinner
chains.

If you’re talking about hand made chains, soldering goes a lot
faster & easier with paste solder. Paste solder has the flux already
mixd in it. Paste solder is sold in syringes similar to hypodermic
syringes. They usually come with 2 different size needles. Using the
appropriate sized needle, the correct amount of solder can be placed
exactly where you want it & it’ll stay there for the soldering.

Depending on the chain pattern being made, usually 1/2 the links can
be soldered prior to assembly. The fastest & easiest way I’ve found
requires the use of a firebrick or other fireproof soldering
surface. Here’s one method that I’ve found quick & easy.

  1. Close the links flush & tight.

  2. After the link is closed, lay it on the firebrick starting in the
    upper left hand corner with the joint at 12 o’clock.

  3. Continue closing links & laying them in a row on the firebrick so
    they’re close to the previous link, but not touching. Continue until
    the right side of the firebrick is reached.

  4. Start another row on the left side about 1" (25 mm) below the
    previous row. Continue closing & placing links until the firebrick
    is covered or all the rings have been placed.

  5. When the firebrick is covered, apply a ball of paste solder about
    the diameter of the wire to the inside of each link so it contacts
    both sides of the joint.

  6. After solder has been placed on each link, turn the brick around
    so all the joints are now at 6 o’clock.

  7. Light your torch & starting at the upper left hand corner, begin
    soldering the links. Apply the flame to the outside of the link so
    both sides of the link come up to soldering temp together.

  8. If the links will be pickled before assembly, gather the links up
    on a piece of wire. Twist the ends of the wire together & pickle.

  9. Depending on the chain pattern, the unsoldered links in the
    assembled chain can be soldered as they are installed or after a
    number of them are installed.

Paste solder can get stiff in the syringe, depending on it’s
ingredients. One way to soften the paste is to warm the syringe by
wrapping it in a cloth soaked in hot water. There’s a paste solder
available from myuniquesolutions.com that doesn’t get stiff. (usual
disclaimers, just a happy customer.)

Paste solder is available in Extra Easy, Easy, Medium & Hard in
silver & most gold colors & kts.

Dave

Aurelio

I will appreciate your help about hints an tricks to been more
productive and maybe can manufacture thinner chains 

The biggest thing I have found is controlling the amount of solder
applied, once you get past melting the links of course. I use a small
propane torch and wire solder cut into small pieces, for me this
works down to about 22 gauge. To about 26 gauge I use solder paste or
jump ring wire with the solder already in it. I haven’t tried going
much smaller.

Terry

Thank you Terry and Dave:

After I have soldered the half of the jump rings, pickled and
assembled them, what do I have to do to solder the other jump rings
without soldering the first ones?

Aurelio

After solder has been placed on each link, turn the brick around
so all the joints are now at 6 o'clock.

I’ve seen this written many times and never seen it challenged, so I
assumed I was dense or missing something, but I might as well ask -
why don’t you just start at the 6 o’clock position?

LadySmith Studio
http://www.silversorceress.com

In India,for one example, ankle bracelets are used to help mothers
keep track of toddlers by the sound of the metal hitting things in
their vincity. 

So, instead of actually watching their toddlers, they depend on
hearing their anklets? Does this sound like a GOOD idea to anyone?
Perhaps the reason you never heard about such accidents is that
these tragedies are considered a hazard of daily life in that
particular culture, and therefore not made a big deal of. To a family
that cares about the health and well-being of their children, there
are NO age-appropriate jewelry items for babies or toddlers.
Non-removable bangles or a pair of discrete ear studs, if fastened by
an EXTREMELY tight back, are the only items that have a very low
chance of causing damage, and there are instances where they have
also caused problems. Necklaces and rings are NEVER appropriate for
regular use! I refuse to allow the welfare of children to depend on
the practices of a culture where some parents intentionally maim
their children to facilitate a career in the ‘begging’ industry.

Lee Cornelius
Vegas Jewelers