Hi Friends, I keep coming back to this question and never arriving at
an answer. I’m hoping someone might have a clever solution.
I have 14k tube settings for faceted stones. I want to use them as
post earrings for pierced ears, with something dangling from them. Is
there an easy way to do this? I suppose I could fabricate an “X” from
gold wire and solder it to the back of the tube, and solder a post
perpendicular to that. I don’t know that just soldering a post to the
rim of the tube would be very stable. Seems like an awful lot of work
for a simple problem… any suggestions?
I could fabricate an "X" from gold wire and solder it to the back
of the tube, and solder a post perpendicular to that. I don't know
that just soldering a post to the rim of the tube would be very
stable.
To get the post centered in the back of the tube, you don’t need an
X shape. That’s overkill. file or bur a notch across the back of the
tube so you can lay a somewhat heavy wire in the notch that crosses
the center of the back of the tube, and is at least half it’s
diameter recessed into the rims of the tube, preferably a bit more.
The guage of that wire should be a bit heavier than your earposts.
Solder the two contact points, but leave the ends projecting a bit out
to the sides for now. Sand or file the back flat again, so the wire
now looks like a flat strap crossing the back of the tube. Solder
your earpost in the center. Now you can trim the sides of the wire
flush with the side of the tube. If you want to hang something from
the tube itself, just solder a little jump ring, or a 3/4 jump ring,
to the side of the tube…
I suppose I could fabricate an "X" from gold wire and solder it to
the back of the tube, and solder a post perpendicular to that.
You don’t need an X, just a single bar or wire across the back with
the post soldered on in the middle of it. I would also recommend a
clutch with a wide pad to increase stability on the ear.
Dave, the way you mentioned about fastening the post to the tube
mounts is how it is done commercially. I would put a small notch on
the edge of the tube mount then fit the post into it and hard solder.
I use the same method for Sterling. Never had a problem. The “X” is a
bit of overkill. Use a cross piece big enough to span the tube mount
opening, solder the post to it with hard solder to form a “T”, hard
solder the “T” to the tube mount. Again, notches in the mount help
position things and add, ever so slightly, more surface area for the
solder.
We usually solder a solid back onto the tube and solder the post
onto that (that is also the way the commercial ones are done). If
you insist on having an opening behind the stones and the tubes are
large enough you can drill a hole on either side of the post.
Daniel R. Spirer, GG Spirer Somes Jewelers 1794 Massachusetts Ave
Cambridge, MA 02140 617-491-6000 @spirersomes www.spirersomes.com
Dave, Should I assume you want to leave the end of the tube open for
cleaning purposes? One is to simply solder on a back plate
(essentially making a bezel cup). But that doesn’t leave the back
open unless you then pierce and cut away part of it. Don’t know what
size tube you are working with…if very small diameter that might be
difficult and a waste of effort. My favorite is to just solder a
’bridge’ of flat gold sheet across the end of the tube slightly
curving it so when the post is soldered on the bridge the end of the
tube is not pressed against the ear lobe. Another is, as you suggest,
soldering the post to the rim of the tube. This works fine too, but
if it is soldered slightly to the inside wall of the tube it creates
a stronger bond. There are other ways too depending on the design of
the piece.
Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
elegance IS fine Jewelry! @coralnut1
I have 14k tube settings for faceted stones. I want to use
them as post earrings for pierced ears, with something dangling
from them. Is there an easy way to do this?
Use a small strip of 24 ga. sheet to bridge across the top quarter
of the perimeter for the post support: ( ||). This way, it will have
a larger area of contact for the solder, with the plate being
attached on all side but one. Next drill a ‘dimple’ most of the way
through the plate you’ve attached, that will match the diameter of
the post. The post should fit into the dimple neatly. When the post
is soldered, some of the solder will also flow down the perimeter of
the dimple, as well as puddling in the bottom of the hole. It will make
a very secure attachment.
Dave, About tube settings, post at the top, dangle at the bottom, ear
ring always in the proper position. There are “T” bar posts
available. Or don’t I get the picture? Thanks Art Smith
Dave, About tube settings, post at the top, dangle at the bottom, ear
ring always in the proper position. There are “T” bar posts
available. Or don’t I get the picture? Thanks Art Smith