I am setting 2mm faceted stones in a silver tube with 2.8mm OD. I am
able to set the stones in the tube with mostly no problem. When I
burnish the tube over the stone to set the stone, I am getting
imperfections in the, for lack of a better description, “bezel.” I’d
like everything to be uniform and perfect. I was entertaining the
idea of using a large beading tool, a small prong setting tool
(neither which I can find), a cup bur or just make my own tool. I
must admit, I am using a dremel with a round bur so I feel this may
be at least part of the problem.
Has anyone set a small stone in a small tube like this before and if
so would you have any suggestions?
Chris, you would do well to purchase a set of ‘setting burs’ rather
than use the round bur. You need a crisp bezel line at the break.
Also, check out my article on making and using bezel rollers in the
Sept 2010 edition of Art Jewelry magazine. I use a bezel roller
routinely to do my tube setting.
I am setting 2mm faceted stones in a silver tube with 2.8mm OD. I
am able to set the stones in the tube with mostly no problem. When
I burnish the tube over the stone to set the stone, I am getting
imperfections in the, for lack of a better description, "bezel."
First, I want to say that you have exactly the right attitude. One
must strive for perfection no matter how small the job may be.
About your little problem. Most setting issues arising from imperfect
fit of the stone to setting. It would not be exaggeration to say 99%
of setting is to fit the stone correctly. Different stones require
different approach, but in your case, I presume that you have stone
with narrow to medium, sharply defined girdle, which is characteristic
of diamond, or diamond like stone.
Tube setting relies entirely on geometry of the tube. Cut out a metal
disk of some diameter, and measure it. Than tilt it a bit, and
measure it again without changing position of calibers. You will see
that second measurement is smaller. That is the key to tube setting.
The inner size of the tube must be same size, as the smallest stone
diameter. No stone is perfectly round. That does not mean that bur
must be of the same size. Bur must be smaller, usually 0.1mm smaller
than required size. If resulting hole is too small, slight movement
from side to side will fix it.
Stone is fitted tilted and slowly pressed into the seat. Of course,
great accuracy is required, but that is the price of perfection. Once
stone is fitted that way, nothing else is required. It is not coming
out, no matter what. Bright cutting with graver, will also raise tiny
burr, to seal the stone forever. That what creates even, bright
“bezel” around the stone.
Polish the flat side of a flat graver and bright cut the inside of
the bezel while spinning the tube. This does require constant
sharpening of the graver as the stone will round the corner of the
graver leaving a flashing on the inside edge of the bezel.
I've found that bezel punches work great for folding the top of the
tube over the stone.
Thanks so much. I felt I knew what I needed but didn’t know the name
or what to cal it. It’s funny… the giant Rio Grand doesn’t carry
these punch but smaller online houses do. I’ve only found sets of
18-24. Would you know where I can find single punches?
Otto Frei will sell individual single bezel punches. I’m not sure if
they’re listed on the web site, but I know someone who bought just
the individual specific sizes she needed from them.
Actually Rio does carry 5 different sets of these. Item 113-697 is
the set that I use for this type of setting. It is actually listed
as a prong stone setting system but most people use if for bezel
setting. It makes short work of bezel setting and compresses the
bezel evenly around the crown of the stone.
Indian jewelry supply sells or at least use to sell individual
punches, round and oval. They have the unique feature of a nylon
insert in the middle of the punch that is supported by an internal
spring. This keeps pressure on the stone as the punch is is being
tapped. Not cheap but if you have issues with wobbly stones these
guys may do the trick
zev
ps I may have a few extra odd sizes for sale that I do not use
anymore.
Not trying to horn in on somebody else’s purchases but I might be
able to use some setting punches since I have none at present. After
your buyer is finished, perhaps you could give me a list of what you
have available and the prices?