Tools kit for channel setting

Jewelry Discussion
#1

Hello,

I have a question about channel setting rings and the tools needed to
do it. During my education in college we did not do any channel
settings and my professor recommended that I out-source this portion
of the project. (I don’t think he knew how to do it) The problem
about out-sourcing it is, 1) this is a ring for my Nephews
engagement; he really, really, really wants it to be made by me. And
2) My feeling about it is that I would rather learn a new skill in
the process, being that I AM supposed to be a jewelry artist now and
why would I, as a “jeweler”, not learn the skill required,
increasing my knowledge base and skill set? (I DO wish I had as much
confidence in myself as my nephew has faith in my skills, Haha!)

Anyway, my question is this…

A classmate of mine had purchased a stone setting kit that came with
a jig, all sizes of different bur types, and a very good
instructional manual on how to cut settings of any type, and to do
them with this setting kit. I have done all sorts of other settings
and will do some trial runs (practice) first before doing the actual
final rings, but for the life of me I cannot find anything like this
kit on the internet, and I am probably not searching correctly,
either. I cannot remember the brand name nor do I know where he got
it. I have not had any responses from him when I call or send an
email. Does anyone have any suggestions where to find something like
this? (I already know it isn’t going to be cheap, but I feel
investing in tools is an investment into my future as a jewelry
artist. Actually I am a tool hoarder. I LOVE my tools)

The stones I will be channel setting are princess cut diamonds and
blue sapphires. I will purchase pre-made shanks of probably 14k white
gold from Hoover & Strong with the channel already rough cast in it,
but realize the channel will need to be cut for the stones. I have
the stone setting burs, and know the proper sized heart bur is used
to undercut the channel wall, and this kit had a wonderful little jig
that made sure your channel was perfectly straight.

I really would love to find this kit, so as I practice and learn, my
job is easier and the channel is not problematic for me. Any one out
here in “Orchid Land” familiar with what I am talking about? Any
suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

#2

Teresa,

The kit that I’m familiar with is the AllSet Channel kit. I’ve never
used it, but a friend of mine has it and likes it. Rio and Stuller
both have AllSet products. Good luck with the channel setting.

Jamie

#3

The AllSet Stone Setting Kit is a Foredom product and can be
purchased through any Foredom dealer. If anyone would like a free
instructional DVD or booklet please contact me and I will send it
out.

Mike Zagielski
Foredom Electric, Zona Tool

#4 
The kit that I'm familiar with is the AllSet Channel kit.

Yes, my first thought was the Allset system which is made by
Foredom. I have one, but have not yet got round to trying channel
setting.

Incidentally, I have also been asked to make rings for a number of
relatives who are getting married this coming spring, one of whom
wants channel set princess cut diamonds in platinum. She has every
confidence in me, as do my other relatives. However, their view of
what I can do is extremely different to what I know I am capable of
(and what I know I’m not capable of). When you get into something
like this, people you know assume that you are instantly an expert -
they don’t realise the long (lifetime) learning curve which is
involved. I have never worked in platinum, nor have I ever channel
set any stones, never mind princess cut stones! So I am going to have
to bow out of doing that particular ring, and just make the plain
platinum band she wants, for when she’s at work (she’s a nurse and is
not allowed any stone set rings of any kind at work). Hopefully my
experience (brief but successful) in palladium will enable me to work
the simple platinum ring. I will do some channel setting (hopefully
soon), but I know my limitations at this point in time, and am
personally not prepared to push the boundaries with someone’s wedding
ring.

However, you may be far more accomplished at stone setting than I am,
and none of what I have said may be relevant to your circumstances,
so ignore accordingly.

Helen
UK

#5

Follow the advice of your professor, and have it set. #1 If you are
going to practice on a ring it should be CZs not princess cut
diamonds and sapphires, #2 If you are purchasing the shanks it is not
made by you anyway so what does it matter. Your nephew will be glad
it was done professionally and so will you. I have been setting for
30yrs and still hate channel setting princess cuts. If it was rounds
I would say take a chance, but princess cuts no way, fancy tool or
not.

Bill Wismar
www.metalbendersgalley.com

#6

Teresa- Regardless of what tools you use for channel setting, please
be sure to order precision cut sapphires. Many sapphire melle are
native cut and have very different crown heights that tend to give a
very uneven look as well as making your life miserable while trying
to set them evenly with the diamonds. You’ll pay more for precision
cut stones, but it’s well worth the extra expense.

Trust me on this.

Have fun and make lots of jewelry.
Jo Haemer
www.timothywgreen.com

#7

Hello Helen, It is high time you moved up to platinum. You will love
it. Platinum has no “memory” to speak of so it will stay where you
bend it. It also does not discolor when you heat it.

Have fun.
Tom Arnold

#8

Foredom’s allset master kit- great tool I use it daily and highly
recommend it. FDJ tools has it cheapest usually and may be on sale
at other sites now- also the milling and planing kit is on closeout
at tools for jewels. com about $400.00 (i think- if really
interested i’ll look it up for you).

Channel setting itself, even without a kit is very easy business-
main thing is to measure and remeasure your stones, write them down-
then work out your design, lay out the channel’s rails (both sides
of the “box”) and mark the level line where the stones are to be set
so that there is no culet poking the wearer from underneath if
azured, the stones tables all rise to the same height, and finally
they are secure in the channel that you will cut with gravers and a
hart bur (a 45 degree bur usually matches most pavillions). If you
don’t want to invest in the allset system at least put a piece of
cellophane tape on the bur at the exact measurement to note the depth
you will cut across the channel- primative depth stop gauge but it
works…gravers should be highly polished to clean and brighten the
channel before setting the stones. There are many ways to make a
channel besides a box style- half a tube, a pea pod style, and rails
that resemble tension setting (they appear to float above the shank
with “spectacle” like rails holding the stones). I would not
outsource it as if you can accurately lay it out it is as easy as
any other setting, but would not recommend your first stab at it with
tapered baguettes, as it’s a bit more complicated- and calls for
absolute precision, whereas in straight sided stones or rounds it’s
easier to average slight differences in circumference (in rounds) or
overall measurements in any other cut stone, the difference lying
under the rims of metal that comprise the rails. Many book excerpts,
articles, and videos can be found on the internet for further
and instruction. I do recommend the Allset system though
quite highly…rer

#9

Hi there Folks,

Thank you all for your suggestions! I have been working at my new
job, and have not had a second of free time to even read Orchid, much
less ANY emails.

After seeing all the responses here I am wondering if I am in over
my head, and may just do as most suggest and source this one out to
have it set. I hate to not try to learn this just because there are
people who would not attempt it (no offense to anyone), so I will at
least give a shot at the learning process. I will get my hands on the
setting kit by Foredom as soon as I can, just because I am obsessed
with learning new things, and when a challenge presents itself to me,
I must rise to it (at least where learning jewelers skills comes in).

I will practice, and if I am just not ecstatic with my results I
will out-source the project. I know my nephew would not even notice
if the crowns were uneven or the settings aren’t perfect, but I will,
and so too would any other jeweler that might ever have to see or
service the ring, which would make me feel like I put out work just
to get it done and make a family member happy. I am a perfectionist
in my work, so I am thinking that he may never get the ring done in
time if I have to perfect my skills before I can set the stones, lol.
The fastest thing to do would be to pass it on, let him know that
there are just some things I have not perfected, and he will be happy
with my choice. I appreciate all the input.

I have been watching many videos on the Orchid network, and also on
the BenchMedia site, and it just does not look all that difficult,
but then again I know the jewelers on those videos have been
practicing for years, too. They make it look easy! LOL I do want to
learn the skills. I hate it to know there is more to learn, and not
have all the skills I can.

What really irks me is walking into a jewelry store and looking at
their “stock” jewelry and seeing how poorly things are set on what
should all be “Professionally made jewelry”. The customers just have
no idea how badly set most of the stones are in a lot of that stuff,
nor how much money they are wasting!

But I guess that opens a whole other can of worms for another post!
HAHA

Thanks Again,
Teresa
Thank you all for your suggestions.

#10

Teresa,

If time is an issue send the job out.

But practice in your spare time ( :slight_smile: doing chanel setting by eye.
No jigs, no crutches. Because the jigs don’t know about fat stones
and thick girdles etc. Also the jigs really hide what you are
cutting, you are working blind on trust. Learn the old ways and then
the jigs can be usefull sometimes or not, although you’ll probably
have out grown them by that point.

jeffD
Demand Designs
Analog/Digital Modelling & Goldsmithing
http://www.gmavt.net/~jdemand