Tools I'd like to see - revisited
Nicolaas, I have had to make compromises in my prong setting
techniques due to my having lost use of a finger and part of my thumb
on my right hand ( I am right handed ).
I have found several solutions to this shortcoming, none as fast as
coming straight down with a setting burr. If You can do it . I can't
First I preset my prong alignment as normal and check for prong
height . I then cut with a 90 or 70 degree burr with a setting stop to
control depth . Rio Grande - "Stone Setting Stops" - $ 19.25 for 2 ,
3/32" dia. I have 4 total, two which are kept set with 90 degree
burrs ( large & small ). ( I need to remind myself to get 70 degree
burrs ). Depth is easy to set and maintain. - MOST HIGHLY RECOMMENDED
The outside of the prong is then cut back slightly and forced down.
The cup burr should be used before pushing the prong down. Then clean
up with an three sided escapement file with one safe side. Then a
fine silicone pumice stone lightly. Check Stone Hardness .
We were taught to set stones, first, on cast bronze heads we cast
ourselves. Cast heads can be hardened somewhat by burnishing with a
magnetic pin polisher and then by further burnishing with a pin on a
small mandrel. Then in fourth semester we moved up to store bought
heads in 14 K . Oh - Happy Day. We still cast and finished everything
Another use for these setting stops is when I am cutting a bezel
bottom for setting a cabochon in a cast setting. First file the
bezel top flat. Then use the flat top to maintain the cutting depth
with the setting stop. I have found an inverted cone burr is just the
ticket to cut the ledge. Then file or pumice stone the bezel outer
face. Solid . Use a Bench Mate with Jett Sett to support the inside
and hammer set.
I am slow because I am old . I am cranky because I have had much
practice . I am humble, because Crow has become part of my food group
< Grin >