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The Art and Jewelry of J.Grahl Design


#245

Hi Jim,
As you may have gathered, i appreciate work that folk here do with stones, its the main theme of everones’s work, however, im a wrought man and appreciate how this was made.
can your expand for me? please?

  1. what grade of titanium you used for the base tube? as my experience is with our standard IMI 115, being commercially pure and thus ductile enough to flare and forge.
    2 the thickness of this tube
    3 was it machined from a solid piece of bar or just sheet rolled then welded?
    Many thanks
    Ted.
    PS If possible reply off list as Id like to write to you about something not for this forum

#246

Hi Ted,
Sorry this is short.
The Ti is Med grade (2), completely machined.
The Ti part is step-cut Od is 2.2 mm, stepped down to 1 mm, though it could certainly be a tube in a tube. Then I just slide (press fit) the 18K & Pt. bands on.
I lightly hammer the flair over the bands first & finish with a dapping die. As you know Ti doesn’t like to stretch so I’m not distorting the 18k & pt. bands.
I finish on a lathe .
Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Jim
(can’t figure out how to PM…duh)


#247

Hi Jim,
Thanks for that.
IF! you can get and try out grade 1 its ductile, can be forged etc, and takes a much better mirror polish.
Then if youve not tried it use a large as in 2in dia propane torch burning slow to fire oxidise it slowly to a secondary colour the mallard green.
Will post over the w/e(IT guru about,) pics of the titanium bowls I make. some 6, 12, and 18in dia from 2 to 4 mm thick in grade 1. these are properly forged cold.
Need a rather large hammer for that.
Ted.


#248

Where do you get the grade 1 titanium? I buy all my ti from Reactive Metals
(what grade is theirs?)

Noël


#249

Aging…
Seems to be a topic most dread…
As a maker of things, it has the same effect on me. Will the piece I made withstand the test of time ?
Here is a great example, this piece was made 20 years ago and just re shot this year, un-restored.
Thank you who are gentle with your treasures !!!
The diamond is a 1.75 ct Princess Cut, bordered by two .50 ct Trillion Cut diamonds. The ring is fabricated in 18K yellow gold and Platinum with natural yellow diamonds accenting the shank.
I wish to age so well…
Enjoy,
Jim


#250

Hi,
My titanium supplier is just a couple miles away, a scrap dealer (Ti only) with everything from grade 1 (pure) to 5 (aerospace and could be used for armor it’s so hard…)
I’m so used to just driving over their name slipped my mind.
I’ll dig it up and share.
Thanks, Jim


#251

Absolutely. I can see the Victorian wrought iron look he was going for this
will be inspiration for my project. I’ve got a 1ct which was moms before
her passing. I digress Lol. This work in one word, "stunning"
Aaron


#252

It’s so nice to see that the setter Bright-Cut the inner “Vee” shapes of
the Trillion stones. How many of them today will go the ‘extra km.’ in
doing this little step…job well done in capturing this view!!!

*Gerry Lewy *
*Toronto, *Canada.


#253

Ageing?
Ive looked at this ring and can honestly say it built to last.
Everything is on a substantial scale. The angled corners holding the central stone is just one thing that stands out.
Good, now to ageing, a story, It was some 25 yrs ago at a local show someone bought one of my “Dark ages” cuff bracelets.
This is fire oxidised a lovely autumn brown on polished stainless 316 stainless. Its assembled by TIG under argon, I know dark ages and TIG is a contradiction in time, I spotted it at a flea market last year on a s/hand jewellery stall, and as you will know you always know your own work, I bought it back for a fraction of what I sold it for, and it was as good as when I made it. It bore my registerd goldsmiths mark and the year 1993 mark.
So to continue, Ive just started a 9 month programm to remake 20 off everything ive ever made over the past 50 yrs for a major retrospective expo here at my home, workshops and display unit. Its to run for 2 weeks through the last week in June to the 1st week in July next year, the lord willing.
Anyone visiting the UK from Ganoksin is welcome to come and see what 50 yrs work has all been about .
Ted.


#254

Another oldie…
here is another piece that has been around for about 20 years. It came in for a new appraisal & cleaning ( no restoration).
Here is a 1.25 ct. G, VS1 marquise diamond, bordered in natural pink diamonds. All resting in a hand fabricated 18K gold and platinum ring with Pave’ details on the sides.
Enjoy,
Jim


#255

cant beat jewelry porn :). amazing work jim. this will inspire
jewelers (myself included) for generations to come.
Aaron


#256

Sweet Suite…
For a great couple and equally great friends.
I’m always honored to be able to participate in an engagement.
The process requires a lot of focus from all involved. There is the dream design, then the details of the stone of choice for the focal point, the drama of budget and the myriad of details that give me the freedom to sit down and craft a piece. It’s not simple, but, with the right folks, great fun.
In this instance, a beautiful 2.10 ct. D Flawless center stone sets the stage for a no compromise wedding set. The whole, hand fabricated in platinum, set with D-E color VVS 1 & 2 side stones. A piece made of detail for someone who doesn’t compromise.
Enjoy,
Jim


#257

Lovely! Cast or fabricated or both?
Jo


#258

Hi Jo,
All fabricated…
Thanks for looking too…
Best,
Jim


#259

Hanging around…
Diamond pendants can be a bit of a challenge. Too small a stone and it get’s lost, Too large, while a statement, can be a bit over the top. Thats where the design element comes in to play, creating a piece that moves light around, has some mass so it will hang correctly, and is just interesting to look at.
Here is a .90 ct E, VS2 center stone surrounded by a circle of rounds, all nestled in a hand fabricated platinum frame. This in turn suspended from a diamond set bale. Fun…
Enjoy,
Jim


#260

Contrasts and focal points…
Diamonds are an intensely bright stone, however, at times when bordered with other diamonds it’s easy to loose focus of the center stone. For this piece, the diamond is a very well cut F color, VS1 clarity oval. Ovals are one of my favorite cuts, gentle and feminine, they lend themselves to a variety of design themes.
Fot this ring, hand fabricated in platinum and detailed with pave’ set diamonds, I found a matched pair of 1/3 rd. carat each Burma rubies, allowing for a striking look without loosing sight of the center stone.
Enjoy,
Jim


#261

Dropping in…
I do not do a lot of yellow gold these days, not because I don’t like it, but the world is focused on white these days.
The exception is when vintage styling comes into play. In this case, a somewhat Byzantine flavored necklace. The warmer yellow you see is due to using 22K gold in both the pendant and the chain.
The diamond is a 1.25 ct H color VS 2 round stone that is quite well cut.
Lower color stones blend well with yellow metals, As the yellow in the diamond becomes more apparent, it softens the lines where it meets the yellow gold.
This piece is hand fabricated and the 22K chain (Wheat) was sourced in Thailand.
Enjoy (your weekend…)
Jim


#262

No Strings attached…
For a great gal, a concert violinist, from a great guy that wanted to capture a bit of her passion in the design.
14 K white gold, .95 ct diamond, F-VS2.
Big isn’t necessary…
Enjoy,
Jim


#263

Simple…
One reason I love to fabricate in and forge platinum is the amount of control I have over the details and the metal’s surface. So what appears simple may not always be so.
This piece, fabricated in platinum, has few elements, but many steps. Forming four prongs, creating the underbezel which is the base for the prongs, and the multi-surfaced shank (ring band)
Each is a process in it’s own right and the steps are many. From starting with melting the platinum grain, to the beginning of the ingot that will be rolled, hammered, filed and formed into this “Simple” suite of six primary components. Then we add the four diamonds per side, each requiring a hole drilled, a seat cut, prongs raised (the “Pave’” process), creating the beads and engraving the perimeter of each stone. Then the center diamond must be set, square and level so as not to disturb the eye…Simple…
In all, including the forming steps of each component , the this ring has gone through about 80 steps, and with diamonds, twenty one individual pieces to reach the finished piece you see here…
Simple,
Jim


#264

Easy on the eyes…
This is another very simple piece,
A 1.87 ct H, VS1 emerald cut diamond in a hand fabricated platinum ring. The subtle details are in the borders of 1.0 mm round diamonds.
Enjoy,
Jim