Technology used in fine jewellery vs hand fabricated

Thank you. I completely agree with you there.

Fascinating conversation. The jewelry I’m most drawn to was made before electricity (Roman, medieval, pre-Columbian, etc). During the coronation I watched a couple of videos featuring some of the ancient crowns, and I like the imperfections - things that were almost, but not quite, symmetrical - you can sort of get a feel for the real person creating the item. There are some very good local goldsmiths here who do beautiful work with a somewhat organic style, sort of ā€œperfect but also handmade-lookingā€. I aspire to that, someday. I have not explored the world of CAD much, but at least some of what I’ve seen seems to be ā€œso perfect it looks like it was made by a machineā€, which isn’t my thing (sorry if that offends, as I say I don’t know a lot about it!).

Per a couple of comments here about what to call people - I don’t know what one calls the beaders, I guess that’s as good a word as anything (in my head I call them ā€œassemblersā€). And wire-wrappers. I have the word ā€œsilversmithā€ on my business card because it’s easier, but when people ask me what I do I just say I make jewelry. For some repairs (of other people’s work) which I’m unable to do I’ll suggest they go to a ā€œreal jewelerā€ :wink: . Sometimes someone asks me if I am a silversmith and my response is usually along the lines of ā€œI suppose soā€; maybe this is because I’m self-taught and very conscious of how much I’ve yet to learn.

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I struggled with what to call myself years ago. Silversmith always seemed a bit presumptive in that I don’t do many of the things that a traditional silversmith does. I always hated the term crafter and I especially hate being referred to as a vendor. So I have so far settled on being a metal and lapidary artist. I like including the term artist in describing what I do because I think that, most days, what I do is more art than anything else. Other days I am a mechanic, accountant, tool maker, researcher and today I was a shop cleaner. My $.02…Rob

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When I was young I wanted to be an artist, and specifically a sculptor. My parents talked me out of it, mostly citing my lack of discipline, as opposed to talent (probably accurate, at the time). I wish I could afford to only work on pieces which might qualify as ā€œartā€; occasionally I make something which for me kind of falls into that category & that’s the most satisfying. Some people have referred to me as an artist, which I like but I don’t think of myself as one. And I get people saying my work is ā€œdifferentā€ (in a positive sense), which I also like. But I don’t really think about what to call myself, it’s not important to me.

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Sue, i cringe when I hear that you say, ā€œTake it to a real jeweler.ā€ That is really selling you short compared to ā€œreal jewelers.ā€ Certainly there are ā€œreal jewelersā€ who cast gold and platinum or work in hand wrought gold and platinum pieces with high dollar rubies and emeralds and exotic pink garnets, but I would bet that more than half of the ā€œreal jewelersā€ in your area are store owners who stock their cases with mostly memo goods and drive a bench jockey hard with repairs for which they may overcharge compared to an independent bench craftsperson. They may only buy calibrated stones from Stuller and the like and dump them into calibrated settings, which may even be semi-mounts so that nobody has to bother setting melee. Low price point goods in their cases might be mid grade amethyst, citrine and blue topaz, and they may today be pushing lab diamonds for engagement rings at half the cost of natural without telling customers that the value of these stones is maybe 10% of purchase price if they should try to resell later.

Now admittedly I may be overstating the case, but there’s a difference between your run of the mill commercial jeweler in a jewelry store, who may or may not have any bench experience and you, who are a jewelry craftsperson making custom pieces. If you consider yourself a silversmith, you can say that, but your skills can be just as good as someone who works in gold. If you get hung up about calling yourself a goldsmith, you can always work on a few gold pieces and add that title, or you can call yourself a jewelry metalworker. I just think you should dignify your work and your craftsmanship. If you don’t do repairs, you can say that you focus on your own original work and that people should take some repairs to a commercial jeweler who has a bench jeweler who specializes in ring sizing or prong tipping or whatever it is that you don’t do because you don’t do that kind of mind-numbing work all day…just my take on it…to some extent it’s marketing, but there’s nothing wrong with honest marketing that presents your skills positively. -royjohn

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Thank you for that. On reflection I realized I have recently started calling myself a silversmith sometimes, I feel a little self-conscious about it but it’s accurate. I like craftsperson as well.

There’s a hole-in-the-wall shop I visit whenever I have an excuse, two Englishmen who’ve been goldsmiths for 40 years. They do beautiful work and make everything themselves . They are the sort of people I mean when I say ā€œrealā€ (before I joined this forum I didn’t know about bench jewelers and some of the more tedious-sounding jobs in the jewelry world, I thought everyone made everything by hand). I first went in there when I need some peridots removed from an ugly setting, to make something more modern for a client; I’m comfortable doing that now but at the time I was afraid of wrecking them. Going in there is such a delight, it’s tiny and dark and old and full of wonders. I long to be taken under their wing, but sadly they are retiring at the end of the year. They very kindly put up with my questions, and I’ve bought small amounts of their gold wire. There is an art show in Sidney (BC) which I enter every year, and there are judges in each art category; this year one of these men was the jewelry judge and I got an honourable mention - he didn’t realize it was me, and I was beside myself with delight :slight_smile: . There’s a well-known yearly fine art show not far away & people have asked if I’ve ever entered (it’s juried), and I went this year to see if I should bother or if it was all high-end goldsmithing. I was looking at some of the jewelry, which was by people I knew from the other art show, and some women asked me whose work I was wearing!! Lol. So I will enter next year.

I would like to work with gold more but that’s a couple of years away, assuming my little business continues to do reasonably well. I do add gold accents to things, I really like the mix. And since I sell my work mostly in markets and craft fairs, and a couple of mid-range retail outlets, at this point that price point is much too high (I’ve been very surprised to sell a fair number of things in the $300-$400 range at the market, but that’s still a long way from gold prices). I have used faceted emeralds, sapphires, spinel and rubies, but of course they are not top quality & I’m clear with people about that. I use a lot of natural zircon now, I’m a huge fan of affordable sparkle.

When I started I was very broke so I took on any little job and any repairs within my skillset, but thankfully I don’t need to do that anymore. I do a fair bit of custom work, but I’ve also had to come up with a graceful way of turning down people who want something which doesn’t interest me or isn’t my style. I have some regular clients who will bring me a stone or get one from me and basically say ā€œdo your thingā€, which I’m happy to do.

Well, I really am rabbiting on, in part because I’ve had a couple of failures today at the bench so I’m distracting myself. I do appreciate your kind words.

Hi,

my thoughts…on CAD technology versus hand fabricated…

to me, CAD is similar in result to making a wax carved model…and, once the model is made, 3D printed or hand carved wax, the lost wax casting process is similar…

then you have the stone setting, in a cast or hand fabricated piece…where stones can be hand, or mechanically placed, and then cast in place (which can be done with either a 3D printed model or hand wax carved model), or set by hand…

then you have the finishing and polishing…which, for either casting (3D printed or hand carved wax), or hand fabricated…can be done by hand or by various mass finishing processes.

…many of the above finishing processes outdate CAD technology…

in my humble opinion, one of the greatest benefits of CAD, is the ability to create models, render them, and create virtual inventories for much less cost than holding the real physical objects in inventory…i think that is an industry game changer…i believe ā€œbridalā€ is a large part of the market and many companies benefit from this…

another benefit is one of saving time…being able to duplicate models in various sizes, modify stone shapes and sizes in an existing model…modify the model itself to suit customer requests…the ability to model minute details as small as .30mm that are hard to do in wax…

also if 3D printed models are used for casting, versus injection wax and rubber mold models, ā€œundercuttingā€ is not an issue or limitation to design…i have seen heavy cuban link chains printed and cast, already assembled…

to a degree, i think ā€œthe lookā€ of a piece created in CAD has more to do with the desired design created, and desired mass production parameters than by any limitations of CAD itself

I aspire toward mastering hand fabrication and detailed finishing…my favorite jewelry is Buccellati…and i love to fabricate pieces…but i can also see the many benefits of CAD technology…

I primarily invested in Gemvision Matrix/ MatrixGold because i struggled with drawing in perspective…and to scale…I wanted to be able to create designs (primarily with stones) to scale…with accuracy…

it all started when i tried to recreate an elaborate piece, in wax, with existing stones on hand…and while the result was impressive given my lack of skills, i learned that being able to design to scale was important…to me…for me, CAD allows for the precision that i desire…

the humanistic touch… the hand wrought nature…can sometimes be implied in the setting and finishing work…the bead and bright stone setting…fishtail and castle setting, florentine engraving, the finish engraving…

just my two cents

julie

Hi,

a few more personal comments…

i forgot to add…i look at the various processes as a means to an end…each one offering benefits and drawbacks…

for items of volume, i would consider wax carving or CAD

for primary stone settings, i would consider hand fabricated or die struck settings…which can be added to a cast shank…

for price, hand fabricating a simple item may be more cost effective thank 3D designing/ printing an item

some things may only be achievable in CAD

some things may only be achievable in wax carving

some things may only be achievable by hand fabricating

sometimes the desire is for hand wrought

sometimes the desire is for 3D printed

so many options! so little time!

i love making jewelry!

julie

si

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Remember the old Star Trek Replicators? Now there is direct metal sintering. A laser is programmed to zap into a box of super fine metal powder. My husband brought home from work a silver Asian style dragon that was fully flexible. No assembly needed.

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