Tall bezels

Jewelry Discussion
1

I’ve really gotten great responses. Thank you all so much.

Just one more thing. I like to start with a tall bezel and build up
under the stone with plastic, copper, or brass to make it the right
height. Does anyone have any problem with doing that?

J. S. (Sue) Ellington

2

JS,

The plastic is not a bad idea though it may be a bit difficult to
get the right thickness. Some people use multiple layers of plastic
sheet, adding until the stone is the correct height. Use of brass or
copper would add to the weight of the piece and may not be a good
idea. Perhaps a better idea would be to add a bearing. A bearing is
another piece of bezel stock that is shaped to closely fit inside the
actual bezel. It is reduced in height so when it is soldered into
the inside of the bezel, and the stone sits on it (hence - a
bearing), it is at the height you want. That way you keep the metal
in the ring all the same and create a fine piece of jewelry.

If this is not to your liking, try cutting a piece of Scotch
scouring pad to fit the bezel shape and put that under the stone. It
will not deterioriate and when you press the stone in, it will
compress but put enough pressure against the bottom of the stone
that, after bezeling, the stone will not become loose or rattle.

Cheers from Don at The Charles Belle Studio in SOFL where simple
elegance IS fine jewelry! @coralnut1

3

Hi Gang,

Perhaps a better idea would be to add a bearing.  A bearing is
another piece of bezel stock that is shaped to closely fit inside
the actual bezel.  It is reduced in height so when it is soldered
into the inside of the bezel, and the stone sits on it (hence - a
bearing), it is at the height you want.

I think I understand the above suggestion as a way to effectively
adjust the relationship between the bezel height & the stones
thickness. However, I’ve often wondered why folks don’t just use a
piece of wire of appropriate thickness. If the thickness required
isn’t a standard wire gauge, rolling a piece through a mill or
flattening it with a hammer (takes a little practice) will reduce the
thickness. The wire can be formed to fit tightly where the bezel
meets the base.

Dave

4 
I've often wondered why folks don't just use a piece of wire of
appropriate thickness

Hi, Dave, This is what I’ve always done. Lazy, I guess, but if the
stone is opaque, I don’t fit or solder the wire. I make a curl (like
a coil, but only a little more that a circle) of wire smaller than
the bezel, hammer it to the right thickness, and set the stone atop
it. For a clear stone, I fit it snugly to the bezel, but still don’t
solder it in. Never had a problem or a complaint.

–Noel