OK, I’ll answer everyone at the same time; From everything I have
been able to learn about the Russian synthetic diamond, the
actual hardness is 9.85, not 9.5 as posted earlier (poor
proofreading on my part), and the syn. moissanite has a hardness
of 9.25. Supposedly a true 10 hardness synthetic diamond is a
doable item, but the cost of producing them of marketable size
and quality is more than a genuine. At present, I understand the
syn diamond is not “officially” on the market, but there are
people smuggling them into this country and have been for some
time. Therefore, they are here and available in D to I color.
These stones are single refractive stones with frosted girdles.
The syn. moissanite, on the other hand is available in J-K color
at best. I have been offered a moissanite and have used my tool
to avoid it becoming a part of my inventory. The seller was a
bit PO’d and a bit “embarrassed”, but that’s not my problem. I
have yet to be offered a synthetic diamond, I hope, but I feel I
am ready. A friend of mine has a standing order for 20 of them,
so as soon as he gets them, I hope to get one.
As far as being called a synthetic as opposed to a simulant, I
do know the difference. I preached proper terminology to my
employees for 20+ years. Get everyone calling smoky topaz what
it really is while you’re at it. Besides, I really don’t care
what it’s called as long as I can detect it before I get scammed
As far as being a destructive test, in the strictest sense,
you’re right. Destructive is an all encompassing word, though.
There is a big difference between a tiny, tiny dot in an
inconspicuous place as opposed to a scratch somewhere.
OK, suppose I do happen to hit a softer hardness direction on a
natural diamond. So what? I miss a deal? Maybe. Maybe I
avoid losing my money, too. Then, if it’s called for, it’s on
to the next step of identifying what I am looking at. No one is
saying this is the one-and-only surefire definitive-gotta
have-it test for diamond simulant/synthetics. Just a simple,
basic and convenient no-brainer to keep myself from getting
ripped off over the counter by someone looking to sell me a
piece of misrepresented junk. If someone is deliberately trying
to scam me and I drag out my tester, the seller knowing what
he/she is trying to do probably won’t allow the test to proceed
I have friends in the pawn and jewelry business who have bought
every one of the latest electronic testers. As soon as
something else come out, they have to spend another few hundred
to get that detector. Next thing you know, they have a row of
electronic gadgetry lined up on their counter just to tell them
what not to buy. Most of them really aren’t interested in
identifying the stone beyond the fact that it isn’t a diamond.
That’s all they want to know. That’s all I want to know, too.
This ID tool was designed with the small guy in mind.
Very few of us in the trade have the proper tools to do a
truly proper stone identification - I just don’t have the time.
That’s what my gemologist friends are for. When I get that
curious I simply have him do it, pay him for his time and I’m on
Over the counter buying decisions are generally made on the
If someone is trying to scam me with a syn. diamond or a
syn. moissanite, I really don’t care if I leave a tiny dot that
takes magnification to find even when you know where to look.
Electronic testers are OK, but susceptible to breakdowns,
misreads, etc., when not used exactly as the instruction manual
says. And they can be quite sensitive to electricity
fluctuations. I lost 2 electronic scales to lightning that
didn’t hit anywhere near me.
Lets see anyone get a lifetime replacement guarantee on an
This tester doesn’t “identify” anything. It only tells you
what it isn’t.
If you don’t like it, send it back for a full refund.